Need help! How do you remove the lower ball joint on 2000 Mustang - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-21-2009 Thread Starter
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Exclamation Need help! How do you remove the lower ball joint on 2000 Mustang

Need instruction on how to remove and install lower ball joint on 2000 ford Mustang v6 3.8L engine. If any one has pics, video or just plane instructions, I would greatly appreciate any info.
Thanks!
Junior:shiny:
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-22-2009
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Jack up car, remove wheel. Remove lower strut bolts. Remove nut to ball joint. Either get a ball joint separator or a big MF hammer to bang down on the ball joint to remove. Remember if you use the hammer, you need to brace to lower arm so it doesn't move when you hit it. We use another floor jack. Once it is out, install the new one.

It is best if you have air tools for this procedure so the ball joint doesn't spin when removing or installing the nut.

2002 V6 Turbo 10:25@134.52
2001 V6 Nitrous 12:94@104.88
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-22-2009
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yea man, like shinerstang said, best if u have air tools. they actually make hand tools to remove them, but u will need a HUGE hammer to do it. I was goin to replace mine, but luckily I had bad tie-rod ends. which are way easier to replace. I would just pay a shop to it if I didn't have the tools. My buddy had to take his control arms to the shop to get them pressed in.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-22-2009
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Checker Auto has a press (kind of a big C-Clamp with adapters that presses the ball joint out and presses the new one in. Takes a bit of effort but IMO it is better than that huge hammer.

I guess I should tell you to be careful and be sure you support the A-Arm with a floor jack before undoing the ball joint nut or the spring will come out in your face!!!! NOT GOOD!!!

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2009
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Just suck it up and pay the $$ for the shop to do it and save yourself the headache. its not that much money and they do it really quick.

Right now my shop is doing my front lower control arms. Tumbling and repainting with new balljoints ect.

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Bullitt Mustang Suspension, Steeda Rear Shock Tower Brace, Steeda Strut Tower Brace, Prothane Bushing Kit, Prothane Transmission Mount and Crossmember, StangWires 9mm HP Plug Wires, Steeda Adjustable Rear Swaybar, Steeda Aluminum Lower Rear Control Arms, Steeda Battery Relocation , Steeda Oil Seperator ,Steeda Full Length Powder Coated Subframe Connectors, CAI, Underdrive Pully
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LunchBox6 View Post
Just suck it up and pay the $$ for the shop to do it and save yourself the headache. its not that much money and they do it really quick.

Right now my shop is doing my front lower control arms. Tumbling and repainting with new balljoints ect.
That's not why we are here..... He is asking because he doesn't want to pay a shop to do it. It is a $15.00 part, and he wants to learn.....

2002 V6 Turbo 10:25@134.52
2001 V6 Nitrous 12:94@104.88
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2009
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Didnt realize i was stepping on anyone's toes by suggesting that the $15 shop charge was worth the headache of removing the old and pressing in the new.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2009
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Quote:
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Didnt realize i was stepping on anyone's toes by suggesting that the $15 shop charge was worth the headache of removing the old and pressing in the new.

$15 shop charge? what ghetto shop are you going to? flat rate for that job is probably around 2 hours. thats well over $175 at my shop, plus parts and fees
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2009
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I actually messed up a bit on my earlier post. Be sure you have the car on jack stands and then support the A-arm with a floor jack before undoing the strut bolts.

IT IS WHAT WE DO TODAY THAT MATTERS!!!!
The past is the past, can't change the past.
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$15 shop charge? what ghetto shop are you going to? flat rate for that job is probably around 2 hours. thats well over $175 at my shop, plus parts and fees
If he removes the control arm and takes the part into the shop it will not take 2 hours to remove and replace the ball joint.

If he has the shop do all of the work. Sure. If he does not have all of the proper tools to press in the joint, he can be in for a big pain.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LunchBox6 View Post
If he removes the control arm and takes the part into the shop it will not take 2 hours to remove and replace the ball joint.
just like 95% of CP work.

that's the joy of being flat rate...

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-1988 Jeep XJ, bone stock 2wd
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-1997 Jeep XJ 4wd, 7" lift, 35" tires, front/rear lockers

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LunchBox6 View Post
If he removes the control arm and takes the part into the shop it will not take 2 hours to remove and replace the ball joint.

If he has the shop do all of the work. Sure. If he does not have all of the proper tools to press in the joint, he can be in for a big pain.
Either way, here is a video link that will give you a pretty good idea as to what to do. It is not a mustang specific video but you should get the idea and make your own decisions from there. If you look at this and dont feel comfortable doing the work dont do it. Have a professional do it. Of all the parts on your car you really dont want to jack up, your suspension or steering is probably top on that list. Going fast is great but being able to steer is much more important.

2000 V6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LunchBox6 View Post
If he removes the control arm and takes the part into the shop it will not take 2 hours to remove and replace the ball joint.

If he has the shop do all of the work. Sure. If he does not have all of the proper tools to press in the joint, he can be in for a big pain.
it probably wont take 2 hours for a professional to do it, it just pays over 2 hours. and if someone brought us a control arm to press out an old balljoint and press in a new one we would charge at least a half hour labor minimum. ive never heard of anywhere that would do that for $15
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-24-2009 Thread Starter
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Thanks to all who have answered my question. I'm going to tackle this today and I'll let you guys know how it's going.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro Mustang View Post
I actually messed up a bit on my earlier post. Be sure you have the car on jack stands and then support the A-arm with a floor jack before undoing the strut bolts.
Good point......

2002 V6 Turbo 10:25@134.52
2001 V6 Nitrous 12:94@104.88
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