For an Eaton or other positive displacement blower, you don't use a blow off valve or relief. The blower pulley is changed to raise or lower the boost.
My stock kit had the 6# pulley which I replaced with a 9# pulley. The bypass valve on an Eaton or twin screw blower is to recirculate the air in the blower when the throttle is closed to prevent surging.
This works especially well when running WOT at peak boost and then quickly letting off the throttle to prevent engine and blower damage.
__________________
"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
oh ic so it must be a type of wastegate then. ya turbos do something of that nature except theirs shoots excess exhaust out to meet the wastegates marked psi. uhm well i bought my turbo,intercooler,bov, and pipes for around 400 dollars. some people on here will will usually say 1-3 grand depending on what you want. i really dont care if its a brand name or not. just check on ebay and look at the custom satisfactory rate and that should give you a good idea on if its a good product or not. but a stock 3.8 no injectors or pump upgrades can hold right around 5psi which is about a 70hp increase. if you want 10psi-12psi you'll need a 255walboro pump an i'm taking a guess of 42lb injectors. if confusion comes up in searching (cuz it did for me) 42lb means 420cc, same as 30lb to 300cc. i believe this motors stock injectors are 19lbs.
you'll probably need a higher injector for that boost, i've never boosted past 10psi before on a stang.
for the muffler shop what are you planning to have them do? cuz with labor it would cost some cash and if your staying with the y pipe then i would consider just buying true duals. which are pretty easy an cheap to buy in seperate parts than buying a system off the internet.
lol if you wanna show yer cousin some power go to true duals no res or cats just a flow thru exhaust on each pipe, i have an 00' an my pipes from the manifold were 2.25in so free up your exhaust by putting a 2.75in or 3in. where your cats would start, you'd need an o2 sensor kit also if your goin with duals.
cheap mods would include performance spark plugs, plug wires, throttlebody spacer, TLOKS(lsd), cai, free-er exhausts, and underdrive pulleys, just little things to keep the engine bay cool too helps such as thermo tape around your exhaust manifolds, an a tuner.
i dont think i stated anything above thats over 500 dollars
bigger hp upgrades would include port n polished intake manifold, forged internals or lighter ones, stroker kits, gears, twin turbo's, big superchargers like the m122 and m112, and a few other mods the more experienced on here can tell you about.
or you can just save up over time and buy this bad boy=]
jackassincorpse,
please stop giving him advice. surely with your help he will blow up his car in no time.
OP, do not, i repeat do not purchase a turbo kit from eBay. reliable horsepower is not cheap, and trust me you get what you pay for.
a good turbo kit will run you upwards of $4k.
you can run no more than 4.4psi on a stock fuel system.
2.5" is the largest piping diameter to use for your exhaust system on a stock engine. anything more than that and you will lose backpressure and your mustang will run like a 3-legged horse.
keep your cats. if you run straight pipes on a stock engine it will sound like garbage, and you will also lose backpressure.
dont waste your money on "performance" spark plugs or throttle body spacers. the only thing these mods can do well is make your money dissapear.
also, no kit exists that allows you to mount an M122 to a split port V6. or any V6 for that matter.
even the M112 kit is sketchy at best.
i suggest a procharger kit. for a relatively low cost, (~$4K), you will reliably add around 100rwhp.
The m90 is absolutely NOT the biggest supercharger Eaton makes.
GT shocks / struts are not an upgrade, mach 1 suspension would be.
Its not split port INJECTION its split port induction.
If he has a 99, he wants a 310 focus pump not a 255 walbro.
GT's do not have independent rear suspension, thats a cobra thing.
2.75 / 3" true duals are WAY too big... Stick to 2.5"
If you can do the work, and I mean all the work. The s/c setup would give you about 30-40rwhp and 70ish rwtq but its not that simple.
Welcome to AFM
And the most important tip I can give you: Do not listen to jakksincorpse, he has no idea what he is ever talking about. Listening to him could result to your vehicle self destructing.
a GT transmission will not bolt up to a V6. V6's have T5's and GT's have T45's.
the differentials are also not interchangeable, the V6's have a 7.5" rear end and the GT's have an 8.8" rear end.
and 99-04 V6/GT suspensions are the same except that the GT has a rear swaybar.
also, there's not much point in buying an entire extra car if all you want is a transmission and a rear end.
you would get the gts struts, swaybars, shocks, springs, and anything else.
they have the different rear end but i just read on that differential section its better to go with the 8.8 cuz it can hold more hp.
well then someone should fire jim at our repair shop cuz he said it could be done... good thing i didnt go there.
and i think the gts used a more aggressive independant suspension set up. idk. i've just been told gt's can take turns way better than v6's.
you would get the gts struts, swaybars, shocks, springs, and anything else.
they have the different rear end but i just read on that differential section its better to go with the 8.8 cuz it can hold more hp.
well then someone should fire jim at our repair shop cuz he said it could be done... good thing i didnt go there.
and i think the gts used a more aggressive independant suspension set up. idk. i've just been told gt's can take turns way better than v6's.
again, you cannot swap differentials between 7.5's and 8.8's. they simply will not fit.
and ssstang already told you that GT's do not have IRS. they have IFS only.
please stop giving him advice. surely with your help he will blow up his car in no time.
OP, do not, i repeat do not purchase a turbo kit from eBay. reliable horsepower is not cheap, and trust me you get what you pay for.
a good turbo kit will run you upwards of $4k.
you can run no more than 4.4psi on a stock fuel system.
2.5" is the largest piping diameter to use for your exhaust system on a stock engine. anything more than that and you will lose backpressure and your stang will run like a 3-legged horse.
keep your cats. if you run straight pipes on a stock engine it will sound like garbage, and you will also lose backpressure.
dont waste your money on "performance" spark plugs or throttle body spacers. the only thing these mods can do well is make your money dissapear.
also, no kit exists that allows you to mount an M122 to a split port V6. or any V6 for that matter.
even the M112 kit is sketchy at best.
i suggest a procharger kit. for a relatively low cost, (~$4K), you will reliably add around 100rwhp.
So If I want to push 300hp i am going to have to spend about 4K?
So If I want to push 300hp i am going to have to spend about 4K?
if you want it to be reliable, yes.
the cheapest way you could make 300hp would be by installing an M112. should cost around $2,500 if you can find good deals on the parts.
heres a basic list of stuff you'll need.
SSM lower intake manifold adapter plate
Eaton M112 03-04 cobra plenum
03-04 cobra TB
03-04 cobra MAF
larger injectors
larger fuel pump
cowl hood with minimum rise of 3-1/2"
extra idler pulley for sufficient belt wrap
UDP's or oversized blower pulley to lower boost to around 6#
one outrageously long drive belt
a dynotune
some other stuff i can't remember...
with the M112 in place, you should expect around 250-270 rwhp when done/tuned properly.
i was considering this for a while and decided against it, mainly due to these 3 reasons:
1. the biggie: no way to intercool it.
2. 3-1/2" cowl hood. where's the sleeper effect ??
3. a roots blower is very hard on the internals of the engine, and, not as efficient.
The m90 is absolutely NOT the biggest supercharger Eaton makes.
GT shocks / struts are not an upgrade, mach 1 suspension would be.
Its not split port INJECTION its split port induction.
If he has a 99, he wants a 310 focus pump not a 255 walbro.
GT's do not have independent rear suspension, thats a cobra thing.
2.75 / 3" true duals are WAY too big... Stick to 2.5"
If you can do the work, and I mean all the work. The s/c setup would give you about 30-40rwhp and 70ish rwtq but its not that simple.
Welcome to AFM
And the most important tip I can give you: Do not listen to jakksincorpse, he has no idea what he is ever talking about. Listening to him could result to your vehicle self destructing.
Thanks for the welcome, and thanks for the input. What kind of exhaust would sound really good on a V6. I have always hated the sound of fart cans. I want something that is throaty with a nice low tone, and sounds like a V8, and not a bumble bee.
Thanks for the welcome, and thanks for the input. What kind of exhaust would sound really good on a V6. I have always hated the sound of fart cans. I want something that is throaty with a nice low tone, and sounds like a V8, and not a bumble bee.
True story: only way to get the v8 sound, is buy a v8...
Long tubes / no cats / flows / cam is the best sound you will get.
performance plugs and wires garuntee an 4-7 hp boost
my exhaust is at those right now and i believe they are doing just fine. cept i got res's and cats on mine so i'm a little out of my cars full potential.
you dont lose back pressure from the middle of the pipe. you lose it from the headers. did i say to increase the header diameter or anything near that? no. the cats are basically in the middle of my car so that would give you lots of pipe for backpressure and then widening the diameter of the pipe will let more exhaust push its way out the system faster.
with my exhaust how they are now with res,cats, and not a flow thru mufflers , just standard. i got a 12hp increase so it will be more with out the junk and flowthru's
my cai, jumped my hp about 8 horses
and a helix spacer also garuntee's 15hp. its just like chevys vortex induction it uses to atomize the fuel and air. (im a gm guy as well lol)
so with all the mods i stated thats about a 40hp increase so stock 190hp is put to 230hp.
i'm sorry about the 5psi. your right 4.4psi is the max. sorry .6psi (which is about the equivelent of blowing thru a straw) makes a huge difference.
ssstang told me you can run your car with no fuel upgrades on 8psi but it severely decreases your engines life. its the same thing as what i'm talking about only on a VERY smaller scale.
so like i said 5psi gave me about 70hp so yea yer hp would be around 300 or even above if you do the exhaust to its full potential. which would need alot more modification if you were going to turbocharge it.
as for sounding like garbage my car sounds awesome with out cats or res's on a 3in pipe. ecspecially when you heard a pssshhfft! after it=D
if he needs a 310 then why was i told i need a 255..?
Thanks for the welcome, and thanks for the input. What kind of exhaust would sound really good on a V6. I have always hated the sound of fart cans. I want something that is throaty with a nice low tone, and sounds like a V8, and not a bumble bee.
try a pair of flowmaster 40's with an H-pipe after your cats. that is a very popular setup.
True story: only way to get the v8 sound, is buy a v8...
Long tubes / no cats / flows / cam is the best sound you will get.
SSM lower intake manifold adapter plate
Eaton M112
03-04 cobra plenum
03-04 cobra TB
03-04 cobra MAF
larger injectors
larger fuel pump
cowl hood with minimum rise of 3-1/2"
extra idler pulley for sufficient belt wrap
UDP's or oversized blower pulley to lower boost to around 6#
one outrageously long drive belt
a dynotune
some other stuff i can't remember..
he said he was on a budget tho. just that ssm lower intake manifold costs $400 and the superchager itself would cost 1 grand.
what you just stated would cost at least 5 grand. thats nuts for only 100hp...
performance plugs and wires garuntee an 4-7 hp boost
you dont lose back pressure from the middle of the pipe. you lose it from the headers.
my cai, jumped my hp about 8 horses
and a helix spacer also garuntee's 15hp. so with all the mods i stated thats about a 40hp increase so stock 190hp is put to 230hp.
as for sounding like garbage my car sounds awesome with out cats or res's on a 3in pipe. ecspecially when you heard a pssshhfft! after it=D
all those statements are 100% BOGUS.
"performance" plugs and wires will add 0.5 hp on a good day.
open up the exhaust too much, and you will lose backpressure.
those Helix spacers that claim to swirl the air before it enters the combustion chamber is a load of horse sh**.
any swirling effect that junk could possibly create would be broken up as the air passed through the plenum, upper and lower intakes, and valves.
you have never had your car dyno'd, and therefore do not know how much, if any, gains you have ever made.
and your car was never turbo'd. we all know that.
you cannot add the manafacturers claims on top of each other and assume that is what you will end up with. the manafacturers claim higher numbers than you will actually see, and mods respond differently to other mods.
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