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1979-2004 V6 Mustang Tech Discussions

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Unread 10-10-2009   #16 (permalink)
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having the same issues with my 99 3.8
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Unread 11-16-2009   #17 (permalink)
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Despite info in the archives, replacing the alternator will not solve the P0340/whining/bucking problem that is really due to a bad cam synch. Don't ask me how I know.

Bob
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Unread 11-17-2009   #18 (permalink)
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...and the fix is...

NAPA part 600-2900. Cam synchronizer, new cam position sensor, alignment tool all for $60 out the door. The plastic cap alignment tool holds the inner spinner in the center of the sensor gap. Pretty easy to figure out, using this cap, how to get things back in the way they were w/o having to pull plugs, get to TDC, etc.

Bob
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Unread 01-03-2010   #19 (permalink)
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Exclamation I need a little help Stang budds.

Recently I posted a thread:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...g-process.html

And to go straight to the point, I have a couple of questions on your post SHINERSTANG that I really wanna quote and hope you or someone else may respond to it. Your explanation is AWESOME!! and I mean TOTALLY AWESOME!! I just happen to have a hard time understanding some things I would like to remark on to make sure:

Quote:
Originally Posted by shinerstang View Post
...Have a buddy bump over the motor until you can feel air blow out of the hole. This is the point where you need to stop...
Here, What did you mean by "bump over the motor" until you can feel air blow out of the hole? Is it to twist the main crank of the motor and force an engine cycle in order to put #1 cyl on top?

Quote:
Originally Posted by shinerstang View Post
...Take a 21mm socket and put it on the crank pulley. Then turn the motor very slowly with a screwdriver in the #1 cylinder until you just feel the piston come to rest up top, and just before you feel it going down. This is TDC.
Very important question here, Do you actually put a screwdriver inside the COMBUSTION CHAMBER through the opening of spark plug #1!? It seems like an "AY CARAMBA" moment when I heard it since I've always heard nothing goes in there. I just need confirmation before I do it... but I trust you on that. Also, if I have an automatic trasmission, I should set it to NEUTRAL before I attempt to move the engine, correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by shinerstang View Post
...Then you install the synchronizer. Before you tighten the bolt to the synchronizer down, make sure the metal piece(pin) is sticking up is exactly in the middle of the window where your sensor goes. You can rotate it anywhere at this point, just make sure you can put the sensor on afterwards...
This is where ignorance kicks in ... I need a picture, a sketch or something of that PIN that you refer to. I believe it should be between the black sensor cap and the shaft of the synchronizer. I know there is a positive and negative on the black cap, but I have not dissassemble the part myself yet. I'm gonna need a lot of luck on this one. I'm a mechanic by heart and a little practice, but not by theory.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shinerstang View Post
...It does not matter where the synchronizer lines up in relation where it used to be, it only matters when the cylinder is at TDC, and the pin is in the middle of the window. Maybe your syn/sensor was located at 8 o'clock when you took it out, and now it is at the 4 o'clock position? It doesn't matter where it ends up as long as the steps were followed to tell sensor that it is okay to fire the #1 injector as it comes to TDC and the pin is in the middle of the window. The magnet on the sensor itself will acknowledge that the pin just went bye......
Again, me and my ignorance, forgive me for it. I just don't know where this pin is, and less when you associate it with a "window". I need some help locating that pin you talk about.

The position of the shaft of the distributor with the little gear going into the crankshaft WOULD NOT AFFECT THE ENGINE FIRING CYCLE as long as CYL #1 is dead on top, right? Also, do you think it's a good idea to disconnect the battery with the fuel pump fuse too before starting? And please, post the firing cycle of the engine together with some explanation about that pin. I would truly appreciate it, sooooo much. Help me start 2010 squeak-free! It's annoying and I heard it could lock the engine if I don't replace it soon. I don't want any damage, there is a lonely MUSTANG sitting in a parking spot waiting for me to fix just that part. Lend me a hand!

~Garcia
I'm awakening from this dreadful nightmare. . . You all made it possible.
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Unread 01-03-2010   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperPonylover View Post
Recently I posted a thread:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...g-process.html

And to go straight to the point, I have a couple of questions on your post SHINERSTANG that I really wanna quote and hope you or someone else may respond to it. Your explanation is AWESOME!! and I mean TOTALLY AWESOME!! I just happen to have a hard time understanding some things I would like to remark on to make sure:


Here, What did you mean by "bump over the motor" until you can feel air blow out of the hole? Is it to twist the main crank of the motor and force an engine cycle in order to put #1 cyl on top? Yes


Very important question here, Do you actually put a screwdriver inside the COMBUSTION CHAMBER through the opening of spark plug #1!? It seems like an "AY CARAMBA" moment when I heard it since I've always heard nothing goes in there. I just need confirmation before I do it... but I trust you on that. Also, if I have an automatic trasmission, I should set it to NEUTRAL before I attempt to move the engine, correct? Once you feel the #1 Cylinder coming up on the compression stroke, you stop, and use a socket on the crank pulley to ensure the cylinder is all the way up top. It is easier to stick a screwdriver into the sparkplug hole so you can feel when it comes all the way up. You will not hurt your piston if you are hand turning the motor at this point. The car can be in park, just disconnect your fuel pump fuse so you are not throwing fuel into the cylinders and disconnect your plug going to your coilpack. No gas, no spark, no chance of starting.


This is where ignorance kicks in ... I need a picture, a sketch or something of that PIN that you refer to. I believe it should be between the black sensor cap and the shaft of the synchronizer. I know there is a positive and negative on the black cap, but I have not dissassemble the part myself yet. I'm gonna need a lot of luck on this one. I'm a mechanic by heart and a little practice, but not by theory.


Again, me and my ignorance, forgive me for it. I just don't know where this pin is, and less when you associate it with a "window". I need some help locating that pin you talk about.

The position of the shaft of the distributor with the little gear going into the crankshaft WOULD NOT AFFECT THE ENGINE FIRING CYCLE as long as CYL #1 is dead on top, right? Also, do you think it's a good idea to disconnect the battery with the fuel pump fuse too before starting? And please, post the firing cycle of the engine together with some explanation about that pin. I would truly appreciate it, sooooo much. Help me start 2010 squeak-free! It's annoying and I heard it could lock the engine if I don't replace it soon. I don't want any damage, there is a lonely MUSTANG sitting in a parking spot waiting for me to fix just that part. Lend me a hand! Correct on position it does not matter where the sensor(distributor) is located. As long as you are on TDC of #1, and the pin is in the window, you are free and clear. The only way to see the pin is to remove your sensor with the 6mm(?) bolts on the top of it. Once you remove that, you will see a metal pin that spins when you crank the motor over. That is the pin that I'm speaking of.


I'm awakening from this dreadful nightmare. . . You all made it possible.
My answers are in bold above.....
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Unread 01-04-2010   #21 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Impressive

Quote:
Originally Posted by shinerstang View Post
My answers are in bold above.....
SWEET!! If you could explain it any better, I would have to be sitting in a classroom and you with a ruler and a dry marker in the front.
If possible and someone knows... please, I need to know what's the firing order in the 3.8L, V6, 232ci Engine.:tongue The little window, I assume you meant a rectangular cut perpendicular to the surface of the shaft, but in the end opposite to the gear (between the black sensor and the metal shaft). I'll find a way.

Shiner, I really have no other way to say thank you budd. But, honestly, if I had a hat... it would be off. Thank you SoOOo much for sharing that. You're a freaking idol and here is another disciple of yours.:happydancer:Thanks to everyone else who posted previously... I promise it's never taken for granted.

~Garcia
I'm awakening from this dreadful nightmare. . . You all made it possible.
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"I WORKED DAY AND NIGHT TO MAKE IT RUN AND ROAR THE WAY IT DOES NOW."
-Garcia
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Unread 01-17-2010   #22 (permalink)
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Post Sorry to bother again... I need a hand.

Shiner or anyone else who can lend me a hand... I'm sooo sorry I have to bother you all again. I'm having a little trouble understanding the installation of the Camshaft Synchronizer in the 2001, 232ci, 3.8L V6 Stang engine. Nothing too complicated, and I have read carefully all you said. Also, the manual tells you to use a million tools and gauges to find TDC. It's lame! lol
So, as always I rely on you all. When you meant TDC (Top Dead Center) how am I suppose to find TDC if the Camshaft keeps turning a little bit even when the #1 Cylinder is Dead on top? You do know what I mean, right? I don't wanna make this too complicated. Maybe it's easier than I think to find TDC, and I understand you said right before the #1 piston moves down. But I wanna make sure I know what I'm doing. That's why this is gonna sound STUPID but I have to ask three more questions and maybe it could even help those others Stangers trying to replace it or the ones who have installed the Synchronizer out of time to correct it.

1) Can you crank the engine a bit Counter-Clockwise if you miss TDC or do you have to go around again?

2) Is there any mark or dent to identify engine TDC in the engine flywheel itself?

3) TDC is the fuel compression on cylinder, or the exhaust compression? And how can I tell those two apart when turning the engine?

Thanks a million in advance. I've already dissasemble one of these synchronizers and assembled it back. I went to the local junkyard and found a 99 V6 all torn apart. So sad, seeing it there like that. I wonder if the owner ever took care of it, but anyways. I learned a lot from that experience and took a couple of pictures so you can meet the guy behind the silly-excessive questions.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! And sorry if I ask too many questions. I know you can understand, you just have no clue how much I love Stangs, specially mine.

~Garcia
I'm awakening from this dreadful nightmare. . . You all made it possible.
Attached Thumbnails
Replacing Camshaft Synchronizer & Sensor-foto0128.jpg  Replacing Camshaft Synchronizer & Sensor-foto0130.jpg  Replacing Camshaft Synchronizer & Sensor-foto0131.jpg  Replacing Camshaft Synchronizer & Sensor-foto0132.jpg  
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"I WORKED DAY AND NIGHT TO MAKE IT RUN AND ROAR THE WAY IT DOES NOW."
-Garcia
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Unread 01-18-2010   #23 (permalink)
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Thumbs up This is what mine sounds like.

2001 Ford Mustang V6 Camshaft Synchronizer failure Video by ~Mr. Garcia~ - MySpace Video

Just felt like sharing it. :yelpleased:

~Garcia
I'm awakening from this dreadful nightmare. . . You all made it possible.
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"I WORKED DAY AND NIGHT TO MAKE IT RUN AND ROAR THE WAY IT DOES NOW."
-Garcia
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Unread 03-29-2010   #24 (permalink)
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Ijust bought the tool off amazon for $18.00. Will let yall know how well it works.
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Unread 03-29-2010   #25 (permalink)
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Super pony, My 94 3.8 has timing marks on the harmonic balancer, and a timing tab, just like old school. Check yours and see if it has it. If it does, when you get to compression top dead center, check it with the timing mark on the balancer. If you pass, go backwards past it again then come back to it, so it takes up any slack in the timing chain, if there is any. then you should be good.
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Unread 03-30-2010   #26 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Seriously, you all rock!

Quote:
Originally Posted by efi428cj View Post
Super pony, My 94 3.8 has timing marks on the harmonic balancer, and a timing tab, just like old school. Check yours and see if it has it. If it does, when you get to compression top dead center, check it with the timing mark on the balancer. If you pass, go backwards past it again then come back to it, so it takes up any slack in the timing chain, if there is any. then you should be good.
Thanks a lot budd... It's not bad at all. I thought it would be a horrible work judging by the long texts and detailed explanations but I found it fairly easy. Time the engine properly and make sure the square needle points perfectly to the open space in the distributor's little black cap. No rocket science or brain surgery! lol. Thanks a million EFI428CJ and everyone else, tips are always helpful and never taken for granted.

~Garcia
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Unread 03-31-2010   #27 (permalink)
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It's kind of like hitting your forehead, and saying "yeah, I get it now".....
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Unread 04-01-2010   #28 (permalink)
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Wink May I correct you?

Quote:
Originally Posted by shinerstang View Post
It's kind of like hitting your forehead, and saying "yeah, I get it now".....
No, it's kinda like hitting your forehead while saying: "I would have never figured this one out on my own! I'm so glad I have an AFM membership and guys like TOM to help me out." lol
Not licking your boots SHINER, I would just like you to know I'm really thankful.

~Garcia
"Relentlessly follow your dreams..."
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-Garcia
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Unread 06-05-2010   #29 (permalink)
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I'm rebuilding a '94 3.8, and having same issue with the camshaft sychronizer. The problem for me is: the synchronzer on a '94 3.8 is different than it is on a 98. There is no pin on the lower half, and the window is 180 deg wide. The tool that Chiltons (argggh!) says in available at most auto parts stores ... is not available at most autoparts stores. So far the only lead on the tool is from a Mac Tools guy, costs 50 bucks, and will take three days for him to order it.
The Chiltons manual says to set the timing (cyl 1) at 26 degress after TDC for 94-95, where as on '97 it says to set it on TDC. The Chiltons manual also says to set the tool to 54 degrees left of the block CL (1998 and earlier) at 54 degrees right on 1999 and later models. See why I hate the Chiltons manual! Got a Ford workshop CD coming, but again it's gonna take three days to get here.

Last edited by stang06girl; 06-05-2010 at 02:15 PM. Reason: spelling
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Unread 06-05-2010   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stang06girl View Post
I'm rebuilding a '94 3.8, and having same issue with the camshaft sychronizer. The problem for me is: the synchronzer on a '94 3.8 is different than it is on a 98. There is no pin on the lower half, and the window is 180 deg wide. The tool that Chiltons (argggh!) says in available at most auto parts stores ... is not available at most autoparts stores. So far the only lead on the tool is from a Mac Tools guy, costs 50 bucks, and will take three days for him to order it.
The Chiltons manual says to set the timing (cyl 1) at 26 degress after TDC for 94-95, where as on '97 it says to set it on TDC. The Chiltons manual also says to set the tool to 54 degrees left of the block CL (1998 and earlier) at 54 degrees right on 1999 and later models. See why I hate the Chiltons manual! Got a Ford workshop CD coming, but again it's gonna take three days to get here.
On the 94's, the pin is located more towards the middle of the shaft. Again, it is the same thing. Do not worry about 26degrees, worry more about the pin(clip) being centered on the sensor(magnet) at TDC on #1.......
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