Replacing Camshaft Synchronizer & Sensor - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 107 (permalink) Old 08-18-2009 Thread Starter
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Replacing Camshaft Synchronizer & Sensor

Hey again guys. I have a 2004 V6 3.9L Mustang(Automatic) Im the one that has had the squeeking sound under his hood for the past week... A mechanic told me it was the water pump, I replaced it and still squeeked. I took it to another mechanic and he said its the Camshaft Synchronizer. Which was what I was starting to think myself. So I bought a new one with a new sensor and the alignment tool all for $50 bucks @ my local Napa parts store. I need to know how to replace the synchronizer and what all other parts that I need to take off in order to replace it. Would really appreciate all the help thanks

Last edited by andybz; 08-18-2009 at 08:13 PM. Reason: forgot to say something
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You're going to need a service manual for this one... Usually only $20. That was the first thing I bought for my car.
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There are a few write-ups in here that I did to set the cam synchronizer without the tool. Send it back and do it my way and save $50.00......

If the other guys have a few minutes, maybe they can sticky it to this thread......

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is your sensor on the drivers side valve cover?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05horse View Post
is your sensor on the drivers side valve cover?
What?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05horse View Post
is your sensor on the drivers side valve cover?
think 3.8 liter keith not 4.0

2003 3.8L V6 4R70W
Windstar Upper Intake with cool-air intake, MAC LT headers, BBK O/R H-pipe, and flow 40s, SCT tuner, FRPP Alum. D/S, 3.73 gears, Auburn HP limited slip, and Team Z LCAs, Eibach sway bars.
Best 1/4 time: 15.036 @90.92mph, 2.148 60'
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post #7 of 107 (permalink) Old 08-19-2009 Thread Starter
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lol my sensor and synchronizer are right above the water pump. I bought a manual today and it says in order to replace the synchronizer not just the sensor, I have to put the number one piston in Top Dead Center.... To do this, it says I need to
a.) disable the ignition system
b.) remove the spark plugs and nistall a compression gauge in the #1 cylinder?!?! turn crankshaft clockwise with a socket and breaker bar as described in chapter 2
c.) when the piston approaches TDC, compression will be noted on the gauge..... blah blah balh


so i have to get a compression guage in order to get to TDC?
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You do not need a compression gauge. Take out your fuel pump fuse in the PDI box. It should be the top, left 20a fuse. Double check the ensure the car won't start by listening to see if the pump kicks on when you turn the key on. Disconnect the plug on the coilpack so you won't get jolted when you take off the plug wire on the #1 cylinder. (did that before, not fun, i hate shocks) Have a buddy bump over the motor until you can feel air blow out of the hole. This is the point where you need to stop. Take a 21mm socket and put it on the crank pulley. Then turn the motor very slowly with a screwdriver in the #1 cylinder until you just feel the piston come to rest up top, and just before you feel it going down. This is TDC. Then you install the synchronizer. Before you tighten the bolt to the synchronizer down, make sure the metal piece(pin) is sticking up is exactly in the middle of the window where your sensor goes. You can rotate it anywhere at this point, just make sure you can put the sensor on afterwards. It does not matter where the synchronizer lines up in relation where it used to be, it only matters when the cylinder is at TDC, and the pin is in the middle of the window. Maybe your syn/sensor was located at 8 o'clock when you took it out, and now it is at the 4 o'clock position? It doesn't matter where it ends up as long as the steps were followed to tell sensor that it is okay to fire the #1 injector as it comes to TDC and the pin is in the middle of the window. The magnet on the sensor itself will acknowledge that the pin just went bye......

Crap, we need to sticky this too. It is too long to explain everytime.....

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There you go .....

its stuck........

i'm not so bad for a 5.0 guy.......
post #10 of 107 (permalink) Old 08-19-2009 Thread Starter
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okay thanks shinerstang... sounds like it could work... ill try this tomorrow and let yall know how it goes
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post #11 of 107 (permalink) Old 08-20-2009 Thread Starter
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hey do i have to take off the air intake in order to get to spark plug #1?
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hay andybz, do you know how exactly the mechanic determined it was the Camshaft Synchronizer & Sensor? because a mechanic told me i had a bad watter pump and alternator and replacing thoes would stop the squeaking noise and $200 later it still squeeks

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Have you checked the belts and slack adjuster? Remove belts, run engine for short time and see if squeeling goes away! Seems cheaper than possibly replacing parts that are not needed.
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post #14 of 107 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009 Thread Starter
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hey guys sorry for not posting in awhile... when i had my squeek a month ago, a firestone mechanic told me it was the water pump and it wasnt... so i took it to a local mechanic that isnt with the big companies like firestone or goodyear and he got a stethoscope and checked it that way.... we replaced the camshaft synchronizer and sensor and it fixed it
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glad it's fixed!

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