So I thought I had a decent grasp of what I was doing, but then I was looking at Advance Auto at the different fluids and realized that for once I did all the research on how to change the fluid, but not what fluid to get, how much I need, and the other details. I need a little advice, I saw on american muscle I can use the Royal Purple Max ATF stuff, but how much do I need. I looked into the manual and according to that I'd need 12 bottles of the stuff @ 20 dollars a pop basically. That really doesn't seem right to me. And is AutoZone.com | | TransmissionFilter(A/T) | TRANSMISSION FILTER a fine filter? When I called Ford Parts up at the local dealership they quoted me 40 dollars for the filter, but the autozone only quotes 12 dollars.
A little help for the inexperienced that like to get in over their heads please
EDIT: I've done a little google searching and it seems people recommend just actually paying the money to get it completly done by professionals, I'd rather do it myself for the pleasure of working on my own car, but is it a better idea for the transmissions sake to do it? (I have exactly 50,200 miles)
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2004 Sonic Blue V6 Performance: Mac CAI/Flowmaster True Dual Exhaust/Goodyear Eagle GT Tires/ BBK Short Tube Headers Appearance: "Mustang" 3rd Brake Light Sticker/Kenwood Stereo/Reverse Glow Gauges/Colored Pony Floormats Next Mod: SCT Tuner and Custom Tune
Stick to name brand filters. Fram, Purolator & Motorcraft to name a few. The filter is in the tranny for 50k or more miles. This is not the time for a bargain brand part. The big manufacturers provide a quality product. As for fluid I would go with a name brand here as well. Unless you race frequently Royal Purple may not be worth the cost to you. It is a better product & has ingredients that improve shift firmness, stop foaming & dissapate heat better than the store bought fluids but the average stock or mild performance car wont show a difference in seat of the pants feeling. I would take that extra money & buy an auxillary tranny cooler instead. A 20 degree drop in fluid temps will double trans life & stop the fluid from breaking down as a bonus.
i would just run the Ford Mercon V. it's what it came with and you would know for sure that its exactly what will work.
don't cheap out on a filter, even Fram is too cheap for my tastes; there's so many small passages and friction surfaces that need to be clean inside of your 2 or $3 thousand tranny the filter is not something skimp on.
i would recommend not doing a "flush." "flush" technically refers to the process of forcing the fluid backwards through the system. this will usually cause harmless peices of crap to become dislodged from its harmless spot and get stuck somewhere that it can cause damage and poor drive ability.
i would recommend not doing a "flush." "flush" technically refers to the process of forcing the fluid backwards through the system. this will usually cause harmless peices of crap to become dislodged from its harmless spot and get stuck somewhere that it can cause damage and poor drive ability.
wrong.
you do not have to do the flush "backwards".
even if you did, nothing bad would happen.
i do transmission flushes on cars every day and have yet to see negative results.
wrong.
you do not have to do the flush "backwards".
even if you did, nothing bad would happen.
i do transmission flushes on cars every day and have yet to see negative results.
you and i might have different definition for flush.
flushing is ok if you don't miss the maintenance interval. i still wouldn't do it. the number of bad stories out weigh the good ones. manufacturers rarely recommend it. the best option for a complete drain and fill is to let the transmission do all the work. run the car while the transmission pushes out the old and sucks in new.
you and i might have different definition for flush.
flushing is ok if you don't miss the maintenance interval. i still wouldn't do it. the number of bad stories out weigh the good ones. manufacturers rarely recommend it. the best option for a complete drain and fill is to let the transmission do all the work. run the car while the transmission pushes out the old and sucks in new.
that is exactly how a trans flush is done. i do it by machine, but that is still how it is done.
most manafacturers recommend transmission fluid flushes every 30k miles. i can tell you for a fact that hyundai & toyota do recommend them every 30k.
as far as the good stories/bad stories thing; you're really only going to hear the bad stories, becase if you take half decent care of your car, you wont feel an improvement after doing a correct trans flush, vs the obvious harmful effects of doing a flush incorrectly. not to mention, some people just love to complain.
"im running RP
ATF in my trans..not impressed with it ( but love it in my rear )"
I think I would have phrased that a bit different....LMAO
i thought the same thing after i posted it... but meh\
and 30K for a trans flush? talk about takeing the cash and running!
double that is a good call. then again i drive american not toyota :P
lets face it a filter and fluid change will do you fine unless your trans fluid is BLACK and watery and just plain well...dead.
IMO its not worth spending alot of money for something that can be fixed with regular maintence
i changed my trans fluid ( manual ) after 60K in my stang
my dodge ram ( auto ) fluid and filter about 80K...but its about time to do it again... one thing though 150K and ive never changed my rear end fluid in my truck yuk... prolly should do that soon
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i have yet to find some one else who when changing their oil ( every 2000 miles or when they get bored ) details the under side of their car.
X-C April 2010,Heads, Cam,Internals April 2011, or blown engine, witch ever comes first.
The transformation has begun!
i know toyotas have no problem going 60K+ on ATF...but hyundais for some reason turn their ATF straight black every 30K. it's probably the fluid hyundai uses, i dont know.
just because it's recommended doesnt mean you need to do it, especially when we're talking about dealerships, lol.
for example, hyundai timing belts are recommended to be changed every 5years or 60k, whatever comes first. they can EASILY clear 7 years/140k miles. (especially the 4-bangers)