This situation is getting a lot deeper than i thought. I will definitely take a look around online. Seems it it would be nearly impossible to find, but i could be surprised.
New Update. Each injector has a unique wire (green/brown/yellow/blue) and a red wire which comes to a common point at the PCM/connector. All the unique wires ring out .000 on a 2K scale on my dad's calibrated Beckman HD110 Meter. I do not see any shorts, and there is no continuity to anything else other than the points at the injector, and the point that plugs into the PCM. There is only continuity between two ends on each individual unque wire.
All .000
Im tempted to purchase a known good PCM (like the 1st one i bought off of Ebay for 29 dollars..) to confirm my suspicion that this unit was not remanufactured correctly. maybe something they missed.
The reason why there is no connection on the other wire for each injector is because the PCM pulses this ground wire to turn the injector on and off, voltage is supplied at all times in the start/run position through the other wire.
I think the PCM could still be the issue...
However, checking resistance using an ohms reading on wires is NOT ACCURATE. It completely changes when you push voltage through it.
You need to be doing a voltage drop on those wires while the system is intact and connected.
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Jesse Berger 90 LX, Previous 4 cyl. (Decommissioned, 351W on the way)
H/C/I+Bolt Ons
Best ET: 12.54@106 mph 2001 V6 5 Speed Daily Driver Windstar Intake, Dual Exhuast, CAI, Headers
Best ET: 15.6@88 mph (stock trim)
Is it possible you have a header/exhaust leak and the computer is compensating for the condition? Also I would try switching the "bad" injector for a known good one to make sure that is not the issue..from there you can work you're way back...good luck, let us know how it goes.
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"Goose, Hollywood's fine, I want Viper"
1995 Mustang GT Cnv 347(427 stroker being built!) almost done!
1996 Cobra with Kenne Bell 2.1 Supercharger and every other conceivable part you can bolt on it...650hp upgrade in the works
2003 Infiniti M45 V8 340 hp...a methadone treatment for reformed Mustang drivers
Last edited by 2Manystangs; 10-14-2009 at 02:47 PM.
Reason: edit
Is it possible you have a header/exhaust leak and the computer is compensating for the condition? Also I would try switching the "bad" injector for a known good one to make sure that is not the issue..from there you can work you're way back...good luck, let us know how it goes.
he tried that by swapping the wire to a different injector and instead that injector just started spraying fuel so its wiring related
The reason why there is no connection on the other wire for each injector is because the PCM pulses this ground wire to turn the injector on and off, voltage is supplied at all times in the start/run position through the other wire.
I think the PCM could still be the issue...
However, checking resistance using an ohms reading on wires is NOT ACCURATE. It completely changes when you push voltage through it.
You need to be doing a voltage drop on those wires while the system is intact and connected.
+1 Jesse. I have been watching this, and have not replied because Jesse is on the right track. But now maybe you need a new set of eyes on this. I've had wires go bad with good continuity testing. I think it might be time to change out the motor harness. You have a short somewhere, and it is only happening when the harness is energized. If you are 100% positive it is not the PCM, there are only 2 other things it could be. Main harness, and engine harness. The CCRM has been ruled out, as well as the fuel pump relay.
What was your ohm readings on all injectors with the key on? You should be getting a pulse reading somewhere around .35 on a high impedance injector, I believe.......
It was my PCM that caused the problem. i put a good PCM back in after taking the whole wire loom out just to check connections. all was good. i plugged the good pcm in and it worked. The engine runs a lot better now. I am now getting my check engine light showing when i drive sometimes. the car is a tiny bit rough when accelerating. i checked my spark plugs. all seemed fine. noticed that my 3rd injector connector was loose. i fastened it back on to find that my check engine light went out. It seems that when ever i adjust the connector, the light goes off. but while i am drving. it will randomly come on.
i am also getting a red glow localized at the catalytic converter. i do not know if that is somewhat normal or not..
Before i ordered a good conditioned PCM, i took the whole wire loom out of the engine, inspected it, cleaned the hell out of it, and taped it all back up. That was my biggest concern. I found nothing to appear short.
I am smelling a sort of rich gas smell when i get out of the car after driving at times. i believe my engine could be running rich? how would i go about fixing a problem like that?
It was my PCM that caused the problem. i put a good PCM back in after taking the whole wire loom out just to check connections. all was good. i plugged the good pcm in and it worked. The engine runs a lot better now. I am now getting my check engine light showing when i drive sometimes. the car is a tiny bit rough when accelerating. i checked my spark plugs. all seemed fine. noticed that my 3rd injector connector was loose. i fastened it back on to find that my check engine light went out. It seems that when ever i adjust the connector, the light goes off. but while i am drving. it will randomly come on.
i am also getting a red glow localized at the catalytic converter. i do not know if that is somewhat normal or not..
Thank you for the help though!!
That is why I asked you if you were 100% sure it wasn't the PCM.....
With the "remanufactured PCM" that the service guy said was fixed.. I was pretty sure it wasnt the PCM. If i had known that the service guys messed it up, or didnt fix it at all, I would of went lookin for a new one a long while ago. I didnt know though.
Update: I pulled my 3 spark plugs on the passenger side and noticed that the 3rd plug (closest to front of car) had a white-chalk like substance at the bottom of the firing end. I then swapped the white chalked plug with the middle plug. Drove it around, and for a little while, the car ran a lot better. check engine light went back on though. and i am back to where i was.. with another plug's firing end covered in white.
I believe it has to do with that cylinder running too rich? how would i go about fixing the problem?
