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Unread 11-21-2010   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1996 Mustang 3.8L V-6 won't start

Searched through the posts and couldn't find an answer, so I'm putting it out there for ya' all.....

1996 3.8L V6, anti-theft light is solid green, I put the key in, turn it jsut short of starting, all dash lights come on, battery shows good output, I even hear the fuel pump kick on, but when I turn the key all the way, nothing. No clicking from the motor, no action at all. Tried jumping just to make sure I had good power, and still nothing.

There is no chip in the key, so I know it's not that. Any ideas?
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Unread 11-21-2010   #2 (permalink)
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Default How to troubleshoot anti-theft PATS

For the 96-98 model year the anti-theft system (PATS) disables the starter. This gives a no crank symptom.

The 99-04 MY, PATS disables fuel and spark. This gives a crank with no start symptom.

Turn the key on but do not crank. Does the theft light go off after a 3 second prove out? If not, STOP and find out why?

Does the theft light come on during cranking? If yes, STOP and find out why.

For a PATS problem, first try reseting with the key FOB and/or by unlocking the driver's door with the key.

Do you have another key to try?

Try jumping the starter solenoid to see if the starter engages.

A no crank can can also be the neutral safety switch (clutch or park).

>>TSB 01-6-2 PATS — diagnostic tips
http://www.stangnet.com/images/stori...s/01-06-02.pdf

Late model cluster diagnostic
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...stic-mode.html


>>>>Spare key programming procedure 96-98 Model year.
Spare Key Programming
Note:
Service control modules require only one key to be programmed before allowing the vehicle to start. If a control module is changed, the technician must inform the customer to program any additional keys using the Spare Key Programming procedure detailed in the Owner Guide.
The system has capacity to store a maximum of 16 keys. After the initial key has been programmed or using any programmed key, follow the steps below:
Note:
Encoded keys must have correct mechanical key cut for vehicle.
l Cycle ignition switch from RUN to OFF with a programmed key.

l Within 15 seconds after this cycle, insert a new encoded key into ignition switch and turn to RUN or START.

l If programming is successful, the THEFT indicator will illuminate for two seconds and the control module will enable the vehicle to start.

l Repeat until all chosen keys have been programmed, up to 16 keys total.

l If programming is not successful, the THEFT indicator will:

-- Flash for one minute if no key code is received. The key is either damaged or is a non-encoded key. (Try a new key and start procedure over again.)

-- Flash for 15 minutes if key code is received yet vehicle is disabled. The key was not programmed successfully. Start procedure over again.

l If programming is not successful, possibly the new key was not inserted within 15 seconds, all 16 key codes have been stored, or the key is a non-encoded key. If the key was not encoded or inserted within 15 seconds, repeat procedure.
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Unread 11-22-2010   #3 (permalink)
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Default

Quote:
Note:
Service control modules require only one key to be programmed before allowing the vehicle to start. If a control module is changed, the technician must inform the customer to program any additional keys using the Spare Key Programming procedure detailed in the Owner Guide.
The system has capacity to store a maximum of 16 keys. After the initial key has been programmed or using any programmed key, follow the steps below:
Note:
Encoded keys must have correct mechanical key cut for vehicle.
l Cycle ignition switch from RUN to OFF with a programmed key.

l Within 15 seconds after this cycle, insert a new encoded key into ignition switch and turn to RUN or START.

l If programming is successful, the THEFT indicator will illuminate for two seconds and the control module will enable the vehicle to start.

l Repeat until all chosen keys have been programmed, up to 16 keys total.

l If programming is not successful, the THEFT indicator will:

-- Flash for one minute if no key code is received. The key is either damaged or is a non-encoded key. (Try a new key and start procedure over again.)

-- Flash for 15 minutes if key code is received yet vehicle is disabled. The key was not programmed successfully. Start procedure over again.

l If programming is not successful, possibly the new key was not inserted within 15 seconds, all 16 key codes have been stored, or the key is a non-encoded key. If the key was not encoded or inserted within 15 seconds, repeat procedure.

Awesome!! This did the trick! Thank you so much for the help. Saved me a trip to the mechanics!
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Unread 11-25-2010   #4 (permalink)
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Well, it seems my joy was premature. Although the above steps seemed to help, I think it was just coincidental. The car started fine throughout the next day, then started with the same problem. It is not the PAT, the light remains green, and this time, after playing with the shift lever and not touching the PAT, the car finally started.

Is there a neutral safety switch in the shifter (automatic tranny), or could it be the ignition switch?

Again, the symptoms are: turn the key and all electronics work, full dash lights, fuel pump primes, but when I try to start, nothing, as if there's no power to the starter. Then, after xxx minutes of trying, the car will finally crank. Once started, there are no issues. This is getting frustrating, got stuck at the liquor store for 45 minutes last night trying to start. Of course, there are worse places to be stuck!

I don't want to start ripping things apart until I have an idea of what to look for. Thanks.
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Unread 11-28-2010   #5 (permalink)
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YES there is a park/neutral safety in ALL automatic transmission cars. The starter circuit is routed through the safety so that the car WILL NOT CRANK unless the shift lever is in park or neutral.

OBTW, the theft light is normally RED. Has someone installed different colored bulbs in the cluster?
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Unread 01-02-2011   #6 (permalink)
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crank sensor check it
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Unread 01-03-2011   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck92 View Post
crank sensor check it
Not CKP sensor. The OP's symptom is "no crank".

A bad CKP sensor would give a crank with no start symptom.
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Unread 11-19-2012   #8 (permalink)
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Default Same problem different solution

I have a Lemons race team and we run a 1996 V6. We decided to move the battery from the front to behind the passenger seat. And suddenly the car wouldn't start. I had put everything or so I thought, the way it should be, but..
There is a connector right behind the batter with two black wires coming out of it. In our case only one wire was connected the the Negative side of the battery, but when I reconnected one of those wires to ground, it happened to not be the correct of the two wires.
My suggestion would be to make sure both of those wires are grounded or hooked up to the Negative post. Started right up, but not after we replaced the fuel pump (what a pain) and the coil pack. So we now have a few more spare parts for race day. Not that we will know which part to replace if we have an ignition failure again.
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