Sealing pipe to DPFE sensor tube in 1995 Mustang - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010 Thread Starter
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Sealing pipe to DPFE sensor tube in 1995 Mustang

A month ago my DPFE sensor went bad so I had that replaced, and I also got some new tubes since the old ones looked quite bad. And it turns out, one of the pipes for the tubes had been ripped off the main tube somehow, and now I'm trying to get them sealed together. I first tried using some steel reinforced epoxy putty due to the cramped working area but that just ended up popping off. So now I'm looking for a better fix possibly, someone suggested I try exhaust tape, but I thought I'd ask about it here first.

Also attached is a picture of said tubes.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010
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Hi-temp steel epoxy would probably work if you could clean it up somewhat (when it's that rusted it's not going to stick). An exhaust shop could probably weld / braze that together without too much trouble.

You could also try shoving another tube inside your tube before epoxying to give it some more structural integrity.
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010 Thread Starter
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A tube within a tube sounds brilliant. I shall have a try at that, and use the steel reinforced epoxy putty to seal it (wrapping around the rusted pipe so it stays in place). Only problem is what kind of tube and where would I get it.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-04-2010
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A tube within a tube sounds brilliant. I shall have a try at that, and use the steel reinforced epoxy putty to seal it (wrapping around the rusted pipe so it stays in place). Only problem is what kind of tube and where would I get it.
I'd probably try some copper pipe, I don't know what the I.D. of your tubing is, you could measure it on the outside and take a guess. I'd just hit the hardware store and their plumbing fittings section. I'm thinking copper because it will take the heat, and it's soft enough that you could form it if you need to. You could also use some kind of threaded pipe union, something like this, if it will slip into your tubing:

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-07-2010
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I've welded mine back on when mine broke off.

-1995 Conv V6 H/C/I and all bolt ons
-1994 Coupe V6 built by GSS Motorsports, painted by Allen Skaggs (Flawless Customs)
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-07-2010 Thread Starter
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Just sealed it a few hours ago, put a copper tube in between it and I managed to get my hand around the main pipe so there's epoxy putty all around it. Now I'm gonna let it sit still for a day to cure since it's been cold here.

I have a concern now about the air flow, the copper tube being in there has reduced it a fair bit, could this cause any issues?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010
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Just sealed it a few hours ago, put a copper tube in between it and I managed to get my hand around the main pipe so there's epoxy putty all around it. Now I'm gonna let it sit still for a day to cure since it's been cold here.

I have a concern now about the air flow, the copper tube being in there has reduced it a fair bit, could this cause any issues?
Maybe if it had a very narrow opening, but probably not otherwise. The inlet to the dpfe is usually quite a bit thinner than the pipe itself. The pressure reading that it's getting from the flow in the connected pipe shouldn't change because of the size of the "venturi sampling tube."

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that you don't wind up with an EGR-related code, let us know how it goes.
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010 Thread Starter
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So far so good, no check engine light coming on, engine seems to be running more normally now. Thanks for all the help.

But now I'm noticing quite a lot of drop from the tail pipe, and I haven't seen it drip at all before. Not a clue what this means.

And I have another off topic question since I can't seem to find the answer anywhere, I'm not sure how to read the transmission fluid dipstick. There's just a hole, a circle, then it dips in and reads hot or cold. There's no obvious indication of what is max or min, to me at least.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010 Thread Starter
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After taking another close look at the dipstick I realized that the beginning and end of the indented bit of it was the min and max, and it seems as though the fluid level is just a hair under minimum.

Also a few days ago after this cars first cold weather start in probably quite some time, a leak of red fluid appeared (I rubbed some printer paper on it to make sure of the color).
The leak appears below where the alternator is.
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Glad to hear it! I wouldn't worry about the water at the tail-pipe, nothing you did would be causing that (most likely the cold weather especially if you've had it parked for a while because of the pipe issue).

A reddish fluid-leak near the front of the engine could be a transmission cooler leak (I assume you have an automatic). It's more likely the power-steering pump if that's nearby. I've had really good luck using power-steering sealer from the parts store, especially for a small leak that may have been aggravated by the cold weather, or more noticeable if you had it parked for a while.
post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2010 Thread Starter
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Alright, thanks for clearing up the tail-pipe water.
And yes I have an automatic transmission.

Tomorrow I will go by Advance Auto Parts and see about getting some transmission fluid, I may need to wait on the power steering sealing as money is rather tight.

Also I was told by someone I should get a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix ( Advance Auto Parts: Transmission Fix by Lucas Oil Products - Part 10009 )

Due to a couple things- when I shift from R to D and other gears there is usually a ~1.5 second pause to shift, a good enough time for me to roll a bit before I can press the gas to go.
And recently once while I was driving, I stopped for a truck turning in front of me, then when I pushed on the gas there was a good ~1.5 second delay then the car jumped. I don't recall if the engine revved up normally before it jumped.

I just want to know if fixing the transmission fluid level will sort this out before I buy a $12 fixer.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-09-2010 Thread Starter
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Some updates.

I checked the transmission fluid level after a 20 minute drive home from school, so the engine was at normal operating temp, previous it was some several F lower than normal.

I took about 7 jabs and the fluid level consistently reads half or just under half full (on the H and O).

Also I compared a drop of power steering fluid to the leak I saw previously, and they seem to be exactly the same (color, texture, nearly odorless). The fluid level appears to be just under half. Also the leak appears to have stopped, for now.
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It does sound like you might have a little transmission slippage, which can be caused by low fluid. If you were leaking a little, possibly, it wouldn't hurt to bring the level closer to the "full" mark and see if it helps.

The Lucas brand is pretty good stuff. It would probably help with a minor seal leak, and you might take advantage of putting it in while the fluid's a little low. Otherwise, if you fill it first, you'll either have to remove some or risk over-filling the transmission.
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