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1979-2004 V6 Mustang Tech Discussions

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Unread 02-22-2011   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1996 Mustang Ignition Problem

I have a 1996 Mustang with a 3.8L Engine. The pin that holds together the two rods inside the steering column for my ignition switch broke. I do not know exactly what the name of the part is and I do not know what kind of pin I need to put it back together. The ignition works, the car starts fine, but I cannot turn off the engine because this "linkage" is broken and it won't turn the ignition off when the key is turned to the off position. If anyone has had any expierience with this, please let me know what you did in order to fix this problem.
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Unread 02-22-2011   #2 (permalink)
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If your car is running right now: disconnect the negative battery, then the positive, then the alternator plug. you can reconnect once the car dies.
OK, now that the car is no longer possessed, herems the "fix" I'm currently using: remove all the steering column covers, then unscrew the ignition switch (white box at base of column). Now you can operate it by hand, but don't worry - you still have to have the key in place to unlock the PAT =) I've had my switch hanging down for over a year now...
Which means I'm also looking for a solution. Does any body know how to replace the "actuator assembly" as Ford calls it? I have the "upper actuator" with pin waiting to install...
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Unread 02-23-2011   #3 (permalink)
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so, you are saying you have been operating your ignition switch by hand? I have been looking for a solution and I plan on having this problem fixed by the end of the week. When I do figure it out, I will post if someone hasn't already given a solution by then.
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Unread 02-25-2011   #4 (permalink)
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Yup, I have to reach down and "squeeze" the switch into the start position by hand. Then I release, and a sprin pushes it into the "ON" position. =/ I know it's ghetto, but it works...
I haven't been able to figure ot how to open up the column to get the old plastic part out and put the new one (with new metal pin) in! I've had the air bag and steering wheel off... opened up the tilt pivot screws (torx drive)... still can't figure out how to get in there. Anybody have a solution?!?
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FLASH = 98 V6, chrome yellow, black & blue accents, 146k daily driver
POWER: divorced exhaust with glasspacks; BBK CAI, TB, UDPs; (shift kit in the garage)
STYLE: black headlights, black taillights, black grille, black hood pins, black window tint, blue hood & side scoops, blue billet fuel door, interior billet, 12000k HIDs
RIMS: XXR 006 black spoke with blue lip; 18x8.5 front, 18x9.5 rear
TIRES: BFG KDW/2 245/40R18 front, 275/35R18 rear
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Unread 02-26-2011   #5 (permalink)
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I have done the same with mine. It's been a pain in the butt, so I'm probably going to replace the entire steering column, it would cost just as much to do that as it would to replace that plastic rod. After that is done, I'm going to tear down the old steering column and fix it because I won't have to worry about breaking it.
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Unread 02-28-2011   #6 (permalink)
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Ok. I figured it out. My wife looked up the procedure. The actuator rod can only be replaced if you remove the upper steering column completely. You can find this procedure at stolenandrecovered.com. It looks fairly easy, although I haven't done it yet, gonna wait until the weekend when I have more time to work on it.
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Unread 03-01-2011   #7 (permalink)
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Excellent info! Thanks for posting... I will also try to follow the procedure. Let me know how it works out for ya. Knowing all I've tried, I was probably step away and didn't know it. =p
__________________
FLASH = 98 V6, chrome yellow, black & blue accents, 146k daily driver
POWER: divorced exhaust with glasspacks; BBK CAI, TB, UDPs; (shift kit in the garage)
STYLE: black headlights, black taillights, black grille, black hood pins, black window tint, blue hood & side scoops, blue billet fuel door, interior billet, 12000k HIDs
RIMS: XXR 006 black spoke with blue lip; 18x8.5 front, 18x9.5 rear
TIRES: BFG KDW/2 245/40R18 front, 275/35R18 rear
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