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1979-2004 V6 Mustang Tech Discussions

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Unread 05-08-2011   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2001 Mustang v6 overheating again

After replacing the thermostat, radiator hoses, cap and getting a fresh oil change, my car was not overheating anymore. Then a couple of weeks ago, the temperature started climbing again. I noticed that my fan turns on at low speed, but then turns off at high speed when it gets to normal operating temperature (it also turns on while installing the diablo's tune). What could cause this?

On a side note, I did get a pioneer avic d3 installed in my car. Since then, my reverse lights don't turn on and my bass and speaker's quality suck. I'm waiting for the guy to get back from vacation so I could get the wiring fixed. Now could the wiring on the radio be the reason to my fan not turning on at high speed and reverse lights for that matter? Or should I be looking elsewhere?
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Unread 05-09-2011   #2 (permalink)
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for the speakers, make sure your ground connection is solid.
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Unread 05-09-2011   #3 (permalink)
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Did you perform the V6 coolant bleeding procedure? The V6 and DOHC WILL overheat if all of the air is not removed from the engine.

Are you aware that the V6 does not have a dual speed fan?
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Unread 05-09-2011   #4 (permalink)
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I did bleed all the air out but I guess I'll try it once more. I thought there was a dual speed because the parameters on my tuner allow me to change the low and high speed on the fan?? So what would cause the fan not to turn on but then turn off some time later?

Also thanks brutus, I'll let the guy know since he's coming in sometime this week!!
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Unread 05-09-2011   #5 (permalink)
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Consider that the V6 only has a low speed fan and does not have a high speed fan. What do you think might happen if the PCM is commanded to turn on the high speed fan at a certain point?

Is it possible that the low speed fan would turn off and then the non-existent high speed fan would turn on? Image it's like a man with no arm but still feels it itching.

Does the fan go off around the PCM HS set point?

Your post did not state what was done to bleed the air from the cooling system. We don't know any more than what is in the post.
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Unread 05-09-2011   #6 (permalink)
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I bled the system by allowing the engine to get to normal operating temperature then open the radiator cap for a while this i opened the bleeder valve by the upper intake. I'll take a careful examination tonight when I get home.
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03/04 cobra 13" front brake system,
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17" chrome FR500 w/ Sumitomo HTR-Z!

(01-04 v1 vortech supercharger kit up fo..... oh wait, change of plans :hihi
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Unread 05-09-2011   #7 (permalink)
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correct me if im wrong but opening the radiator cap when its at temperature and under pressure is a bad idea... you're supposed to fill the radiator and cooling system with the cap open and the vent tube open
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Unread 05-10-2011   #8 (permalink)
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Yep, just got yelled at by my uncle telling me that was the wrong way and he helped me do it the right way which was how you said markstang and my uncle said that it should be fine now, but it started to overheat again while driving. So I just parked it in the garage and let it cool down for 2 hours. This time I had everything ready, a 9/16 wrench to bleed the coolant bleeder valve one last time and the tuner plugged in to record what happens when the thermostat begins to open at 195 degrees.

At 196, the radiator fan turns on, but it was making a funny on and off howling noise the second it turned on at 196 degrees. At 212 degrees, the fan turned off and this is when I began bleeding the valve again and it looked like I got the remaining air out and the temperature stablilized back down from 216 degrees to 208-210 degrees and the fan turned back on. So I took it for a test drive and it was driving between 208-212 degrees for about 10 minutes with normal driving before the temp started to slowly climb again. I parked it back in the garage and checked the fan while the motor was running and I saw that the fan was off again.

I hope thats enough information and if not just let me know what else you need me to get. I have no idea as to what to change to fix the fan problem. Thanks.
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SLP LM2, MotoBlue 42% U/P, SVT 255 lph F/P, DiabloSport tuner,
H&R lowering springs, 8.8 rear w/ 3.55 gears,
03/04 cobra 13" front brake system,
Granatelli adjustable upper/lower control arms,
17" chrome FR500 w/ Sumitomo HTR-Z!

(01-04 v1 vortech supercharger kit up fo..... oh wait, change of plans :hihi
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Unread 05-11-2011   #9 (permalink)
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Go back to basics. Spin the fan by hand. Does it spin freely?

Run the fan directly from battery. If it makes a "funny" noise, it's likely bad.

The V6 Mustang uses a circuit breaker for the fan. This sets up the possibility that the CB is kicking off and then automatically reseting itself. Next time the fan shuts off, test for +12 volts in the fan connector.

If no voltage, test the CB. If the CB is tripping out, the most likely reason is the fan is drawing too much power. Why? Bad bearing (remember the "funny" noise?).

If asked to handicap this thread, you have a bad fan.
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Unread 05-12-2011   #10 (permalink)
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Ok thank you, I will run that test. Now is it possible that a bad fan would allow the car to overheat that much or is there something else wrong? (ie radiator, etc.) Its 80 degrees in chicago and the car reached upper 240 degrees yesterday and I havent driven it since because I want it fixed before any damage happens.
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SLP LM2, MotoBlue 42% U/P, SVT 255 lph F/P, DiabloSport tuner,
H&R lowering springs, 8.8 rear w/ 3.55 gears,
03/04 cobra 13" front brake system,
Granatelli adjustable upper/lower control arms,
17" chrome FR500 w/ Sumitomo HTR-Z!

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Unread 05-12-2011   #11 (permalink)
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head gasket leak, clogged radiator, stuck t-stat, excessively advanced timing, blocked exhaust, leaky radiator cap, incorrect coolant mix.

Need more?
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