2001 V6 Mustang lowering springs, ball joint advice - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011 Thread Starter
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2001 V6 Mustang lowering springs, ball joint advice

2001 V6 Mustang lowering springs, ball joint advice needed:

Folks, my son's 2001 V6 Mustang rides like crap at 100,000 miles and I suggested to him that we go through it and replace the shocks/struts. He really want's to lower it all the way around by about 1.5 inches. This sounds good to me and would be a good father son project. We're thinking about a 4 spring set for 1.5 inch lowering, shocks all around, and maybe a set of ball joints so the suspention angles on the front are not messed up. I've read a few articles and it looks like a set of "taller" ball joints is recommended up front to put the suspention back to correct angles. Anybody have experience with this or suggestions for parts...? I like American Muscle as a supplier as I've had good luck with them in the past.... Thinking about these parts so far:

Springs
http://www.americanmuscle.com/b-springs-7904.html

Ball joints, not sure if these are the correct ones though...
http://www.americanmuscle.com/stx2bajokit.html

Grabber Blue 2012 GT Mustang, 6 spd manual, basic model 300A, no options, charcoal black interior. On order 04/21/11. VIN received 05/26/11. Build date 06/08/11, delivered to dealer 06/21/11. Picked up 6/29 after black stripes installed by dealer. Roush axle backs installed.... Added OEM strut tower brace..... On the road......!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011
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that should fix you up. also will need castor/camber plates to get proper alignment.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cindys_sn95 View Post
that should fix you up. also will need castor/camber plates to get proper alignment.

Really, do you think those are necessary if you get the correct ball joints that give you the proper orientation....? Regards

Grabber Blue 2012 GT Mustang, 6 spd manual, basic model 300A, no options, charcoal black interior. On order 04/21/11. VIN received 05/26/11. Build date 06/08/11, delivered to dealer 06/21/11. Picked up 6/29 after black stripes installed by dealer. Roush axle backs installed.... Added OEM strut tower brace..... On the road......!
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011
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The proper way to lower a vehicle without wearing through tires, without pulling out ball joints and without having the steering wheel pulled out of your hands over bumps/around corners is going to involve the following:
1. Springs: 1999-2004 Ford Mustang Lowering Springs at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
2. Shocks/struts: 1999-2004 Ford Mustang Shocks, Mustang Struts at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
3. Caster/camber plates: Ford Mustang Caster Camber Plates at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
3. extended ball joints: Steeda X-2 Ball Joint Kit (94-04 Mustang) at AmericanMuscle - Free Shipping!
4. a bumpsteer kit: Steeda Bumpsteer Kit (94-04 Mustang) at AmericanMuscle - Free Shipping!


It is highly recommended that you change all of this out at the same time, that way you only have to get it aligned once. If you have to buy them individually, do it and then hang on to everything so that you only have to pay to get it aligned once.


Have you thought about doing any other suspension bushings/pieces to help improve the ride?

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMStanger View Post
Have you thought about doing any other suspension bushings/pieces to help improve the ride?
Not really, just starting to think about it now.... But I'm open to suggestions. My goal is to get it riding nicely and safely so he can go another 100,000 miles on the car. It's not about making it too sporty, just driveable, mechanically sound, and safe. Since we're going to do springs anyway I thought I'd let him get the lowering ones and get the look that he wants. Thanks for the full list and detailed response. Regards

Grabber Blue 2012 GT Mustang, 6 spd manual, basic model 300A, no options, charcoal black interior. On order 04/21/11. VIN received 05/26/11. Build date 06/08/11, delivered to dealer 06/21/11. Picked up 6/29 after black stripes installed by dealer. Roush axle backs installed.... Added OEM strut tower brace..... On the road......!
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011
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just took the wifes 95 to get alignment a couple of weeks ago. even without being lowered it needs c/c plates to get it exactly right. passenger side was still a 1/2 degree out and no more adjustment. luckly the told me to bring it back after i get them installed and he would do it again and not charge me.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmaher55 View Post
Not really, just starting to think about it now.... But I'm open to suggestions. My goal is to get it riding nicely and safely so he can go another 100,000 miles on the car. It's not about making it too sporty, just driveable, mechanically sound, and safe. Since we're going to do springs anyway I thought I'd let him get the lowering ones and get the look that he wants. Thanks for the full list and detailed response. Regards

Your best bet to start is going to be springs, caster/camber plates, ball-joints and a bumpsteer kit.

All of this can be installed before the need for shocks/struts and normally, if you mark the settings you are at after alignment(on the c/c plates) you can change out the shocks/struts later and still get everything back to the correct alignments without having to pay to do it again.

With lowering springs, you will need shocks/struts at some point, but they are not required immediately.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-21-2011
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As an added comment, I just went through this with Tokico HP shocks and Steeda springs on an 02 mustang V6.

I bought the cc plates through American Muscle and the information that was contained with the plates from Maximum Motorsport was very enlightening. Go to their website and do some reading.

Also, go to Miracerros.com and read his advice. Finally, one bit of advice that none of the installation instructions talked about was getting the new springs in with the American Muscle isolator bits that I installed. You have to pry the old ones out and that is covered. But to get the new ones in, place them in place top first, then lubricate the bottom with a spray lubricant on the a-arm where it sits...it has to go over a rise that the spring sits in. Lubricating that area, will allow you to pop the part in without issue. I was surprised when it just popped in after some had dripped down from the top where I sprayed first. Took me about 4 hours for the driver's side with the CC plates from Maximum Motorsports and about an hour for the passenger side.

Miracerros has several installation instructions cited and also gives you some technical data on drop rates for various manufacturers of springs. Very good information. I downloaded several installation instructions. Actually American Muscle has several very good installation video's and written instructions as well.

Alignment was almost spot on. Car handles great and this is from a Corvette/RX7/Miata perspective. As for length of time to install, take into account I did this by myself and am not in my 20's or 30's anymore

Bring lawyers, guns and money, the **** has hit the fan...!
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