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1979-2004 V6 Mustang Tech Discussions

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Unread 05-23-2012   #16 (permalink)
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Don't make the ppl trying to help you guess. ALWAYS post the full DTC codes.

No information=no help.

Have you confirmed that all fuses are good?

You are correct. The TPS does not need to be adjusted for the 96+ MY. The TPS position is re-learned on every start up.

Measure the voltage with the key on between the TPS BR/W and GY/R wire. Post.

Confirm that the fuel pressure regulator intake vacuum reference line is connected and leak free.

I would love to know what the engine vacuum is at idle and how it's changes as throttle is applied.
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Unread 05-23-2012   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmburns View Post
Don't make the ppl trying to help you guess. ALWAYS post the full DTC codes.

No information=no help.

Have you confirmed that all fuses are good?

You are correct. The TPS does not need to be adjusted for the 96+ MY. The TPS position is re-learned on every start up.

Measure the voltage with the key on between the TPS BR/W and GY/R wire. Post.

Confirm that the fuel pressure regulator intake vacuum reference line is connected and leak free.

I would love to know what the engine vacuum is at idle and how it's changes as throttle is applied.
OK like I said in the post before this one I know it doesn't need to be adjusted but I read that it needs to be hooked up to a computer I wanted to know if that would make it work...

Also I don't know what ur talking about when u say measure the voltage with the key what does that mean TPS BR/W AND GY/R WIRE <---- what is that???

the fuel pressure regulator intake vacuum reference line is connected and leak free.<----- what is this where can I find it??

CALL ME A NOOB AT THIS BECAUSE THATS EXACTLY WHAT I AM I CAME ON HERE FOR HELP AND IT SEEMS THERE IS ONLY ONE PERSON HELPING SORRY IF I CANT GIVE THE RIGHT INFO IM YOUNG AND THIS IS MY FIRST CAR MY BAD!!!

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Unread 05-23-2012   #18 (permalink)
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ALSO WHEN THE CAR IS ON IDLE ITS FINE WHEN I HIT THE GAS PEDAL IT DROPS ALL THE WAY AND SPUTTERS THEN DIES

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Unread 05-23-2012   #19 (permalink)
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okay Mr. Noob, turn off your caps-lock.

i am here to inform you that:
(a) he is helping you.

(b) it's (WIRE COLOR)/(STRIPE COLOR)

(c) you would use a multimeter to measure the voltage between the two wire colors he mentioned.

(d) the fuel pressure regulator is on the fuel rail. (actually on your car it might be before or after it so it'll probably be near where the lines come in from the gas tank) a shiny silver set of tubes that run along the heads. it'll be the only thing connected to those shiny tubes that has a vacuum line going to it.
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Unread 05-23-2012   #20 (permalink)
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OK so if I don't use a multimeter will it still work or no?? OK sorry I have no idea what all the abbreviations mean my bad sorry to that guy/girl...

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Unread 05-23-2012   #21 (permalink)
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well then you can't know what the voltage between the two wires is then and you can't perform the diagnostic test he is prescribing. borrow a multimeter then.

the abbreviations are self explanatory in terms of what color is what
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Unread 05-23-2012   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markstang690 View Post
well then you can't know what the voltage between the two wires is then and you can't perform the diagnostic test he is prescribing. borrow a multimeter then.

the abbreviations are self explanatory in terms of what color is what
OK so what do I do when I get the multimeter how do I do what ever I need to do??

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Unread 05-23-2012   #23 (permalink)
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Depending on the DMM (digital multimeter) You need to take each lead of the DMM one red and one black...put it on each one of the wires while the key is turned on and come back with what the voltage is...Make sure the leads are in the right hole on the dmm.


The picture i posted is NOT what you need to do that is Ohms...But look at the bottom of the DMM make sure the black lead is plugged in the COM, Ground. and the red in the voltage/ ohms

Digital Multimeter

This link i found will help out where to put the leads for voltage drop.

Remember IF you measure Resistance make sure you have NO power going to the item you are measuring take it out of the circuit.

Do you have alldata wmburns?
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Unread 05-23-2012   #24 (permalink)
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Could be the TPS plug too ... check the plugs condition and wiring...

Well the same thing basically is happening w/ our dakota but the CEL code is for the main control unit ... so were having to replace the ECU ...
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Unread 05-23-2012   #25 (permalink)
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OK so I turned the car on and these are the codes the wires had when I hooked up the multi meter 0.12 gray and red. 0.92 Gray and white 5.25 on the brown wire is that normal or no even after I did that the car did the same thing

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Unread 05-23-2012   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpyder View Post
OK so I turned the car on and these are the codes the wires had when I hooked up the multi meter 0.12 gray and red. 0.92 Gray and white 5.25 on the brown wire is that normal or no even after I did that the car did the same thing

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lol so what are the code number and what is their description ?
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Unread 05-23-2012   #27 (permalink)
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Im not sure if i understand or not

So the Gray/ red had 0.12 as the reading?

Gray/white had 0.92

And brown 5.25?
Which one looks like it doesn't belong?

This was not meant to fix your car it is only to check it out and find out the problem.

and you hooked it correctly right? If so im not sure but it looks like the brown wire has the issue..or what ever the brown wire hooks to.
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Unread 05-23-2012   #28 (permalink)
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OK so after hooking up the tps and everything was good it was still doing that instead of giving myself a headache and getting mad I decided to check other things and it turns out it was the mass air flow sensor went bad so now I have to get a new one and I don't think I even needed a new tps..... sorry for all the trouble thank you all for your help

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Unread 05-23-2012   #29 (permalink)
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What makes you think its the mass air flow? just curious.
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Unread 05-23-2012   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlbzmustang View Post
Do you have alldata wmburns?
I have built up a library of Ford service manuals and wiring diagrams covering 1992 through 2011. It takes up many Giga bytes on my computers. I use these manuals all the time and find the information critical to the repair process.

xpyder, taking a voltage measure is NOT going to fix the problem. It's meant to give information where to focus trouble shooting.

The request was to measure VOLTAGE between two wires with the key on. The TPS wire colors given are BR/W and GY/R.

BR/W is a brown wire with a white tracer.
GY/R is a gray wire with a red tracer.

This is ONE measurement with one test lead on one TPS wire and the other test lead on the other. The reading should be about 5 volts. If not, this indicates a problem.

The TPS and other engine sensors are on a 5 volt VREF circuit with a separate ground (the GY/R wire). Taking measures to chassis ground serves little purpose.




My gut tells me that this problem is either:
  • A base motor problem. IE, very low compression. That's why I wanted to know the engine vacuum.
  • Vacuum leak.
  • Low fuel pressure.
  • blocked exhaust
  • A sensor problem such as bad MAF or the PCM has switched to "limp in" mode.
If in limp-in mode, the PCM will not allow the timing to advance. This will limit the RPM's. To me this sounds similar to the OP's reported symtom.

For another test to get information, what happens if the MAF sensor is disconnected at the electrical connector? Does it run better? Note, this will throw a new DTC but it's OK (for testing).

Multiple requests have been made to have the DTC codes posted. The exact codes may offer the clue needed to unlock this problem.

An ODB2 scanner that is able to monitor opperational data may make very short work of this.

Remember there is no elevator to success. You have to take the steps.

Signed.
Grover Cleveland
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