The emergency shut-off only influences the fuel getting to the engine. The car should still have electrical power even if that thing is active.
As to the PATS... As depicted in
this thread there is a solution for PATS that one can try before taking the car to the dealer.
However if the car does absolutely nothing (in the case of the thread mentioned, the 'THEFT' light was blinking) in terms of electrical systems, the first culprit would be the battery and it's connectors.
If those are sound, check the power distribution box / fusebox to make sure no fuses are blown. Take an ohm-meter and test the fuses to make sure. Sometimes it's not all that easy to see.
Looking at the Haynes manual I have there's two different sets (or atleast two chapters) dedicated to the electrical system. One the 'Engine Electrical System' and the other the 'Chassis Electrical System'
There seem to be two fuseboxes, one located under the instrument panel at the left (containing the 'standard' fuses), and one in the engine compartment containing the 'high-current' ones. (they note to disconnect the negative cable on the battery before tampering with the high-current fuses).
There don't seem to be any master-fuses/switches that could cause the issue, so all I can say is try to work back from the battery. If that has power, does the fuse responsible for the internal light (should be in the manual) have power on it's engine side when the doors are open. If it doesn't... where does the power stop?
Possibly the negative wire has been severed for some reason (it is at the front of the car where you said you bumped into something). At this point it's all guess work, and working from the battery up to the individual systems would be your best bet.