Looking to convert to a t-lok rear end. My options are to change my 7.5" to a t-lok, I assume that will be the easiest, or swap the 7.5" with a GT 8.8". Need some opinions on what would be best thing to do here.
Also, what markings are on the 8.8" that I can check to make sure what gearing it has? I want to make sure a junk yard doesn't rip me off.
I don't have any engine mods yet, just got the car in August. I am working on suspension and next plans are to address rear end. I think I want to change to 3.73s unless 4.10s still provide good gas mileage. This is a daily and don't want to compromise too much the the 20 mpg I get now.
Definately want the t-lok but, don't know whether swapping rear ends is the best way to go. Still weighing options.
Just got a quote for a GT rear end for $750. WOW!!! Maybe changing to t-lok for my 7.5" rear end is the way to go. Any comments guys?
I don't have any engine mods yet, just got the car in August. I am working on suspension and next plans are to address rear end. I think I want to change to 3.73s unless 4.10s still provide good gas mileage. This is a daily and don't want to compromise too much the the 20 mpg I get now.
Definately want the t-lok but, don't know whether swapping rear ends is the best way to go. Still weighing options.
Just got a quote for a GT rear end for $750. WOW!!! Maybe changing to t-lok for my 7.5" rear end is the way to go. Any comments guys?
Thanks.
What is your overally HP goal.
Ford Racing T-lok good to 300 bhp $190
Detroit Truetrac T-lok good to 400 rwhp $430
8.8 inch GT rear end good to higher than 400 rwhp not exactly sure how much $750
How much power you plan to make affects the choice.
__________________
2002 v6 manual, SSM P&P Heads, Comp Cam from SSM, and some other stuff full list in profile.
214 RWHP, 215 RWTQ
"The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so" -Ronald Reagan
An 8.8" rear end is only useful if you plan on racing your car at every stoplight, every stop sign, at the strip, basically everywhere where lots and lots of hard launches could destroy a 7.5" diff and twist the axles.
If you plan on making BIG power, then do the rear end swap but if you're not going towards that route then just do the T-lok swap and gears at the same time.
__________________
(>'')> Kirby-CHOP!
R.I.P.
1996 Laser Red V6
Vortech S-trim 9 psi
T-lok 3.73, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, Eibach springs, KYB shocks/struts, Steeda bumpsteer kit with X2 balljoints, Steeda clutch quadrant with adjuster, Steeda rear lower control arms (uppers coming soon) 2.5in dual exhaust with H-pipe, Borla mufflers, 3in tips.
Looking to convert to a t-lok rear end. My options are to change my 7.5" to a t-lok, I assume that will be the easiest, or swap the 7.5" with a GT 8.8". Need some opinions on what would be best thing to do here.
Also, what markings are on the 8.8" that I can check to make sure what gearing it has? I want to make sure a junk yard doesn't rip me off.
yeah bro if your not planning on dumbing like 10,000 worth of parts in your car lol then dont worry about changing to 8.8 its more for guys like Gt eater with 700 hp. You could throw a procharger on and make 355 hp and whoop some V8's without changing to an 8.8
Anything that has forced induction should use an 8.8" axle........
you trying to tell me something shiner? I think my 7.5 will be alright. If i ever end up destroying my rear end, then I'll put in an 8.8 but until then I'll be laying it down hard!
__________________
(>'')> Kirby-CHOP!
R.I.P.
1996 Laser Red V6
Vortech S-trim 9 psi
T-lok 3.73, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, Eibach springs, KYB shocks/struts, Steeda bumpsteer kit with X2 balljoints, Steeda clutch quadrant with adjuster, Steeda rear lower control arms (uppers coming soon) 2.5in dual exhaust with H-pipe, Borla mufflers, 3in tips.
When guys go with forced induction, most go over 350hp, so they should get an 8.8". The 7.5" rears and trannys get very "iffy" after that.
The number GT-Eater gave me was 400 rwhp for a girdled Detroit truetrac; but then again that is its upper limit and if you plan on getting close to that then a 8.8" would be smart.
But the tranny can be modifed to handle more than 400 rwhp w/o swapping I just cant remember what you have to do?
__________________
2002 v6 manual, SSM P&P Heads, Comp Cam from SSM, and some other stuff full list in profile.
214 RWHP, 215 RWTQ
"The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so" -Ronald Reagan
The number GT-Eater gave me was 400 rwhp for a girdled Detroit truetrac; but then again that is its upper limit and if you plan on getting close to that then a 8.8" would be smart.
But the tranny can be modifed to handle more than 400 rwhp w/o swapping I just cant remember what you have to do?
The Detroit Tru Trac can take a beating especially when used with a T/A girdle , the axles are the the same from the GT to the V6 as long as you stay in the same year , both are 28 spline stock .
__________________
660.0 RWHP 583.0 Ft. lb's trq. @17.4 PSI
11.584@124.58mph( Old set up)
2002 V6 3.8 liter.
T-5 G-Force Dog Ring
Custom T-80 Turbo built by Delk Performance
2003 Coupe 7.5" to 8.8" Rear End Swap 
I think my 7.5 will be alright. If i ever end up destroying my rear end, then I'll put in an 8.8 but until then I'll be laying it down hard! 
