The whistle is probably normal - CAI's don't suppress this sound like the OE snorkels do.
I doubt that holes upstream of the Mass Air sensor will create a lean condition, unless they are really huge.
A tiny crack created by the hoses or pipes sagging (the crack usually occurs on the underside, where it is pretty much invisible) can cause the problem. If the CAI pipes were just barely long enough, and you're not catching enough of them under the rubber seals with the clamps, this could be happening.
If you have this intermittant problem (as things move around from heat and vibration, the gap may open and then actually CLOSE itself), a tune would not necessarily fix anything.
I'm mentioning this because I encountered this problem myself - I finally found the source when the pipe vibrated completely out from under the blue rubber connector!
The CAI tubing WAS barely long enough to attach to the stock rubber hosing that connects to the intake manifold. I recently noticed (today driving home from school) that at the beginning of the drive my car surges forward and back a couple of times, and it kind of concerns me. As soon as I have the money and time I'm going to head over to my custom shop and see if they can figure out my CAI system (they install stuff like CAI's, etc.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by reivaxtorres
im wondering why you werent able to clear the code. with my obd II scanner, i was always able to clear the code (provided i followed the proper procedure, which was erase the code when the ignition was "ON" but the engine was off). i recently had a few codes like that as well (P0171;P0174;P1131;P1151). turns out for the two latter of the four, it was the front o2 sensors that failed. for the first two, i thought i had fixed it as well with the new o2 sensors, but the code came back on shorty afterwards and i checked everything under the hood and turns out one of the hoses connecting the valve covers together had a rubber section that was kinda falling apart.....since it was late at night when i checked it, and all the stores were closed already, i just used some electrical tape and tapped it up nice and tight, and so far no problems at all, and its been almost a month now.
Trust me I know how to use my scanner haha. I don't know what the problem is, I did disconnect the negative battery terminal and it reset the computer and now I haven't seen the CEL at all. I'm beginning to think that the CAI I bought is more of a pain in the butt than I thought. But all recommendations pointed towards TunableInduction.... I was a little skeptical though when the instructions were incomplete on how to install the CAI, but, luckily I knew otherwise I'd be screwed right now lol.
Trust me I know how to use my scanner haha. I don't know what the problem is, I did disconnect the negative battery terminal and it reset the computer and now I haven't seen the CEL at all. I'm beginning to think that the CAI I bought is more of a pain in the butt than I thought. But all recommendations pointed towards TunableInduction.... I was a little skeptical though when the instructions were incomplete on how to install the CAI, but, luckily I knew otherwise I'd be screwed right now lol.
just making sure :P
but yeah, dont know why you wouldnt be able to turn it off. you know what tho, check the MAF sensor. if its dirty, it might not be registering how much air is really flowing past it.
but since the code is gone now, i wouldnt worry about it unless it turns on again, its also possible that it may have been a false code
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RIP Gloria A. Torres
4/26/61 - 10/30/07
The best Mom-lady I could have ever asked for
eh true, i wish it were a false code but, it still doesn't explain why my car surges when the engine's cold... when im driving along it feels as though tapping the gas (leap forward, fall back).
eh true, i wish it were a false code but, it still doesn't explain why my car surges when the engine's cold... when im driving along it feels as though tapping the gas (leap forward, fall back).
check the EGR. our truck does that everyonce in a while, took it to ford and they said its "normal", that is part of the EGR process. i think thats complete bs, but i dont feel like replacing it at the time because it was only about 2-3 yrs old at the time, less than 30k miles, and it does it so rarely that it didnt bug me. i just tap the gas and it goes away
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RIP Gloria A. Torres
4/26/61 - 10/30/07
The best Mom-lady I could have ever asked for
check the EGR. our truck does that everyonce in a while, took it to ford and they said its "normal", that is part of the EGR process. i think thats complete bs, but i dont feel like replacing it at the time because it was only about 2-3 yrs old at the time, less than 30k miles, and it does it so rarely that it didnt bug me. i just tap the gas and it goes away
what might I be checking the EGR for???
You know what I just thought? My car when it overheated because of the bad thermostat, I never cleaned the engine of the antifreeze that sprayed all over. So I'm thinking that maybe the antifreeze dirtied up one of the sensors...
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#23 Ford Mustang 4.2
194whp/255wtq
Last edited by Stanger98; 08-15-2007 at 06:28 PM.
Reason: 2+2 and the brain is working.
You know what I just thought? My car when it overheated because of the bad thermostat, I never cleaned the engine of the antifreeze that sprayed all over. So I'm thinking that maybe the antifreeze dirtied up one of the sensors...
could be the coolant, so look into that as well.
as for the EGR, that controls how much recycled exhaust gases go back into the engine. if the EGR is opening when it shouldnt, or not closing like it should be, then you have an amount of air in the cylinder that doesnt match what the computer thinks is in the cylinder, thus it cant compensate for it and you will run lean. the EGR has a valve in there thats controlled by engine vacuum (vacuum line coming in from the top). think of the EGR as an electronically/vacuum controlled 2nd throttle body.
side note: EGR will not operate under WOT throttle conditions, and will mostly operate while coasting/cruising or at idle.
__________________
RIP Gloria A. Torres
4/26/61 - 10/30/07
The best Mom-lady I could have ever asked for
Problem solved for now at least. I decided to get under the hood and inspect things. I took the whole CAI assembly out looked at everything, there were no problems, the MAF was perfectly clean, so I decided to put everything back together and throw it back on, I smashed everything together as much as I could, tightened everything pretty darn tight (not enough to strip anything) and replugged the battery in, took the car out for a 10 minute drive....
I still have that High pitch whistle when I'm at half throttle (I know you guys said it's normal but, I think otherwise; why would it only be that high pitch at half throttle and then not be high pitched anywhere else?) but otherwise, no stumbling, no surges, no CEL, and runs smoothly.
Again about the high pitch whistle. I realize that the CAI Resonates a whistle but this whistle sounds like a leak somewhere (that I can't find, I tightened everything to the 100% best of my abilities). When I'm on the throttle I hear a deeper whistles resonating and as I get to half throttle, high pitch whistle, and as I get past half throttle, the deeper whistle returns.... I don't believe that's normal...
Its normal. My car does something similar. If you're stubborn, just remove the CAI again and put the OE setup and snorkel back on - it will get quiet again.
Your motor is pulling more air in through that CAI, and its making more noise.
If you had a serious vacuum leak, the car would run poorly.
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tripleblack
"You can never be free until you let yourself go."
I'm not stubborn, it just didn't seem right to me, but, all is well right now so I'm happy. As soon as I get the dual exhaust on I'm going to JBA and getting a dyno tune though.
