I'm Retro old school when it comes to mods on my '05
I do not want the rubber band look.....
+1... I like the fat rubber look myself!
FWIW, I stuck with 17"x9" chrome bullitts (because of the similarity to the old school Cragar S/S wheels). I run Nitto 450 255/50-17 up front, and used to run Nitto 450 275/50-17 in the rear. I recently switched to M&H drag radials out back (I needed more traction). Like the 275/50-17s, the M&H's are 28" dia.
On the track, I have a 15" set-up all the way around. M/T 26x7.50-15 on 15x3.5" Weld Draglites, and M/T 28x10.50-15 drag slicks on 15x9 Weld XP Draglites.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
No, the rears are taller than stock (which was 27.2" dia).
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
I like the look Don. The high side wall makes a big difference.
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07 GT. Exterior mods n/a. Engine mods, see profile.
One of the more powerful cars around.
One of the slower cars around.
Makes me feel like a kid every time.
295/48/18's(18x10's) on the rear,255/45/18's up front(18x9's).I had to install some new dampners for a little stiffer ride to eliminate the rear end bounce.
I am one of the crazy fools with 20's on my car. Although my tires are low profile, I do not think they are quite to the level of rubber bands. However, if I were to do it again, I most likely would go with the 18's. The 20's do look sharp, but at the price of a bit rougher ride and not a good thing to have at the track (should I ever go).
what are rwl add on letters if you dont mind me asking
I don't know who makes any rwl add-on letters for tires.
But rwl stands for raised white letters on the sidewall of a tire. Cool back in the '60s with Firestone WideOvals and Goodyear Polyglas GTs in 70-series and later in 60-series profile tires.
High performance tires are usually Z-rated these days (good for 150 mph speeds). And unless things have changed since I last investigated, all Z-rated tires are blackwalls. This isn't much of a problem these days, since the big rims (17" and up) combined with low profile tires (50-series and lower) don't leave very much sidewall height (and no room for raised white letters).
My buddy Mark built a Factory Five Racing 1966 Cobra roadster kit car, and he stayed with 15" diameter rims (8"wide fronts and 10"wide rears) and rwl Dunlops to keep the '60s period look correct. But even his Dunlops weren't Z-rated.
I couldn't have asked for a better setup than I have now.
Considering the car's limitations, I like what I have now too. But if I could, I'd have 15" Cragars on there!
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?