Ford Mustang Forum banner

Issue with 2005 Mustang GT Auto

1K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  Rift 
#1 ·
Issues with 2005 Mustang GT Auto

So I bought the car back in 2014 with 107k miles with no issues, but now is approaching 140k and a few problems have arose that I havent quite been able to figure out. To start when it rains, and I start the car up without the engine being warm it has an extremely rough idle like it has a cam almost, but it goes back to normal when its fully warmed up. Next issue is when Im driving lets say around 45-50 mph and the RPM's drop between 1500-2000 the engine starts to bog and seems like something is siezing up almost? and I can hear a loudish noise coming from the rear end. I recently also got my trans fluid changed to see if this would maybe fix the second issue but it didnt help whatsoever. The third and final issue is I can feel a bad vibration in the front brakes under breaking sometimes, I changed the rotors and pads a little after I got the car because it was doing the same thing, it went away after awhile but now the problem has started again. But any help with any of these three issues is greatly appreciated!
 
#2 ·
2008 GT with 116k here. Mine also has the rough idle like a cam when cold started but I always assumed that was just because of my LTs and O/R H-pipe while the motor is warming up. As long as it goes back down to normal idle i'd say it's fine, just give it a minute or 2 before driving.

When you say you feel vibration in the brakes, do you mean the front wheels? Steering wheel? I have a bad shake in my front (right mostly) tires at 40+ and I am about to change out the front hub assemblies, inner/outer tie rods, and ball joints. Figured with this mileage it's time to replace them.
 
#3 ·
See mine is completely stock besides an axle back exhaust, and it still had the issue even before I installed the new exhaust. And I can feel it through both the front wheels and steering wheel, and the vibrations happen around the same mph so I might just need to replace those as well.
 
#4 ·
welcome to the forum cloyd. with 140k on your car, you will definitely want to invest in a new timing chain set, all supporting hardware and oil pump, that should fix the engine running issue. clean your mass air flow sensor (MAF) and throttle body (TB), replace fuel filter and spark plugs. what brand rotors and pads did you use? inferior or cheap rotors will warp quickly over a short amount of time. 140k and 11 or 12 years is also a lot for the suspension and associated bushings. I would also suggest a suspension refresh with at least stock equivalent parts to tighten things back up. where are you located? road salt or ocean air can accelerate the degradation of the stock rubber bushings even faster. again welcome and good luck
 
#5 ·
What would all the supporting hardware actually be? And I bought a set of Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors w/ pads about 3-4 months after I bought the car (summer 2014). Also residing in Ohio where we get alot of road salt, and the road quality isnt the best
 
#6 · (Edited)
this https://lmr.com/item/M6004463V/2005-10-Mustang-GT-Camshaft-Drive-Kit-M-6004-463V and https://www.steeda.com/ford-racing-mustang-high-pressure-oil-pump-161-m-6600-e46.html and while everything is apart Ford Performance Mustang Rocker Arm and Lash Adjuster Kit M-6529-3V (05-10 4.6L 3V) - Free Shipping shouldn't take more than a weekend, don't forget oil pan gasket as well. I think that's it. several good write ups with pics on here (Jeremy_Wiegel) I never spell his last name right, has a good one and I believe his post has previous info as well. good luck
 
#7 ·
Before you tear into the engine you should try the easy stuff first. Clean the MAF and throttle body and unplug the battery for 15 minutes then reconnect. Doing this will reset the PCM.


I agree with what others have said about changing spark plugs, coil boots, and fuel filter. I would also inspect the ball joints for cracks/grease oozing out while you're inspecting the bushings.
 
#10 ·
Wheel shudder and shake can be almost certainly made worse by bad wheel bearings, especially if the wheels shudder when braking hard. Also not torquing the wheel lugs correctly can warp the rotors before the tires hit the ground, then when they get hot the first time, they are paperweights forever after.

Make sure, if you have after market wheels, that the lug holes in the wheels on the inner side have clearance depressions milled for the rotor retainer clips, if you put the clips back on the wheel studs after installing the new rotors. This condition will allow the wheels to align perfectly on the alignment rack, but rotate ever so slightly eccentrically around the hub when driving and begin to raise a serious ruckus when the speed gets to generating some heavy angular momentum in the tires.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top