How to Test LCA? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-20-2018 Thread Starter
PONY Member
 
Brianwu's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Edison
Posts: 722
 
How to Test LCA?

Prepping my 07 for a cross-country trip and dealing with the dreaded CLUNK

I've got new struts, strut mounts, new sway bar end links, new sway bar bushings.

At this point, debating to pull the gun to swap out LCA in hopes that it'll save the day, but from other threads, including Ken05gt's 2015 clunk thread, it seems an endless chase.

A lot of people reported clunks over small driveway bumps, but my clunking is stronger on the passenger side, and it almost feels like something is banging up against the footwell area. It happens on any road with any impurity in the road, even a tree twig would set it off and it feels completely unsafe to me.

Is there a tried and true way to test the condition of the LCA? Put up on jacks, give the wheel a wiggle?
Anyone know an easy way to see if they need to be replaced or is there no way to diagnose a failing one?


2007 GT Performance White
Pype Bomb Axleback
JLT Series 3 CAI
Bama 93 Hybrid Tune
Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
Brianwu is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018
PONY Member
 
Jeremy Weigel's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 459
 
I've chased it to no avail. Same side as your's. I've replaced everything in the front suspension/steering. For what its worth, the clunk didn't begin for me until after I had the factory LCA's replaced with the FRPP "upgraded" ones. A fella I work with said it sounds like its the sway bar and suggested that I temporarily remove it just to see if the clunk goes away.


2006 GT- Airaid Race CAI, 62mm BBK TB, SR Performance UD Pullies, FRPP Hot Rod Cams, CMDP's, Excedy Stage One Clutch and lightweight flywheel, Pacesetter Long Tube Headers with matching O/R H-Pipe & MBRP Street Axlebacks, Lito 91 Octane Tune
Jeremy Weigel is offline  
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018
GT Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
Norm Peterson's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Delaware Twp
Posts: 1,646
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianwu View Post
I've got new struts, strut mounts, new sway bar end links, new sway bar bushings.
I just can't see it being an LCA when you've just replaced several items that can generate clunks if the fasteners aren't tight enough.

New struts . . . the top strut nut may not have been fully tightened, or it may have loosened. I just had to retighten one of these nuts on the Subie in my sig - this after the strut (a Bilstein) had been in service for well over 50,000 miles.

I really hope it's not an inadequately torqued strut to knuckle fastener, or one of those half-strength aftermarket "camber bolts", but the possibility does exist. If it is an aftermarket bolt, immediately replace any and all of those things right away with OE fasteners. Use Ford's own camber adjustment procedure if necessary.


New endlinks . . . if they're the OE design they can be somewhat difficult to fully torque

New bar bushings . . . even the bolts holding the clamps around those can loosen (or missed during the install). Been here, too. Ford service dep't missed it when I asked them to check a noise when the car was in for an unrelated issue.


Norm

'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
Norm Peterson is offline  
 
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2018 Thread Starter
PONY Member
 
Brianwu's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Edison
Posts: 722
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Weigel View Post
I've chased it to no avail. Same side as your's. I've replaced everything in the front suspension/steering. For what its worth, the clunk didn't begin for me until after I had the factory LCA's replaced with the FRPP "upgraded" ones. A fella I work with said it sounds like its the sway bar and suggested that I temporarily remove it just to see if the clunk goes away.
I did finally swap out with the FRPP LCA. But as you've stated, my suspension is totally worse. Completely unstable. Squeaking, creaking, clunking, rumbling. Feels and sounds like it's all being held together with duct tape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
I just can't see it being an LCA when you've just replaced several items that can generate clunks if the fasteners aren't tight enough.

New struts . . . the top strut nut may not have been fully tightened, or it may have loosened. I just had to retighten one of these nuts on the Subie in my sig - this after the strut (a Bilstein) had been in service for well over 50,000 miles.

I really hope it's not an inadequately torqued strut to knuckle fastener, or one of those half-strength aftermarket "camber bolts", but the possibility does exist. If it is an aftermarket bolt, immediately replace any and all of those things right away with OE fasteners. Use Ford's own camber adjustment procedure if necessary.


New endlinks . . . if they're the OE design they can be somewhat difficult to fully torque

New bar bushings . . . even the bolts holding the clamps around those can loosen (or missed during the install). Been here, too. Ford service dep't missed it when I asked them to check a noise when the car was in for an unrelated issue.


Norm
Norm, can the strut nut be tightened without pulling the whole strut out, compressing the springs, etc? The car has now been moved to my apartment....I am no longer living at home with access to all my tools, jacks, etc. It would be ideal if I could just pop the hood and tighten from the top.

And I'm heavily considering the sway bar bushings. I've tightened the endlinks to what I thought was overly excessive. But I noticed that after changing the sway bar bushings, there is a small gap [maybe 1/3 inch] on both sides that should line up flush against the clamps. Maybe this small gap is causing the additional instability. The front suspension is literally horrible. Worse than it was with all the old rusted parts.

2007 GT Performance White
Pype Bomb Axleback
JLT Series 3 CAI
Bama 93 Hybrid Tune
Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
Brianwu is offline  
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2018
GT Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
Norm Peterson's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Delaware Twp
Posts: 1,646
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianwu View Post
Norm, can the strut nut be tightened without pulling the whole strut out, compressing the springs, etc?
As long as you can hold the shaft still, it's easier to do this on the car rather than off. I've had to do this two or three times over the years and it's never taken more than that (and maybe a minute's time).



Quote:
The car has now been moved to my apartment....I am no longer living at home with access to all my tools, jacks, etc. It would be ideal if I could just pop the hood and tighten from the top.
Maybe you should bring a portion of your tools and what-not over to your apartment.



Quote:
But I noticed that after changing the sway bar bushings, there is a small gap [maybe 1/3 inch] on both sides that should line up flush against the clamps. Maybe this small gap is causing the additional instability. The front suspension is literally horrible. Worse than it was with all the old rusted parts.
I'm definitely going to need a picture for this.


Norm

'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
Norm Peterson is offline  
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2018 Thread Starter
PONY Member
 
Brianwu's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Edison
Posts: 722
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
As long as you can hold the shaft still, it's easier to do this on the car rather than off. I've had to do this two or three times over the years and it's never taken more than that (and maybe a minute's time).



Maybe you should bring a portion of your tools and what-not over to your apartment.



I'm definitely going to need a picture for this.


Norm
I have my basic hand tools, sockets, etc. Just no real access to jack + jack stands or lifting the vehicle without use of a shop or something. So hopefully, just tightening from the top while the vehicle sits as is, will work.

Can't gain access to pictures yet either. Drove the vehicle down to my apartment in TX, currently back in NJ prepping for the final move. Won't see the vehicle again for at least two weeks.

But I was able to find a thread about it:

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...llar-help.html

If you can see Norm, there is a small gap between the bushing and collar of the sway bar, so to speak. Apparently from that thread, it's okay to have and doesn't show any symptoms. So maybe that's not the problem.

2007 GT Performance White
Pype Bomb Axleback
JLT Series 3 CAI
Bama 93 Hybrid Tune
Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
Brianwu is offline  
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2018
GT Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
Norm Peterson's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Delaware Twp
Posts: 1,646
 
Garage
That gap shouldn't matter, since the loads on the bar are almost entirely in directions that wouldn't cause that gap to change.


Norm

'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
Norm Peterson is offline  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2018
PONY Member
 
huberoy123's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Kent County
Posts: 971
 
Garage
In my 2007, the clunk was annoying. I just turned up my stereo, until one day my daughter asked me what that noise was. I decided to fix it, and cured it by using the GT500 strut mount and experimenting with the tightening the top strut bolt. Good luck.


2006 GT, Strut Tower Brace, Gas Hood Struts, FR Intake Plenum cover, Metal Fuse Box cover, Moroso brake reservoir cover, Rear shock tower brace, Front Bumper Lip Spoiler, JVC DVD Head unit w/ back-up camera, satellite Radio and USB input, 2 - 12" sub-woofers, 4 - 6"x8" speakers, 2 - 6.5" speakers to replace the door subs, 3 amplifiers, LED lights under the hood and in the trunk, chrome e-handle on parking brake handle, chrome cup holder trim, and trunk lid cover with running pony emblem.

huberoy123 is offline  
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018 Thread Starter
PONY Member
 
Brianwu's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Edison
Posts: 722
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
That gap shouldn't matter, since the loads on the bar are almost entirely in directions that wouldn't cause that gap to change.


Norm

Norm,

Last night I tightened up the strut nuts as the car sat. Both sides were surprisingly easy to tighten. I tightened them down until there was some good resistance. This morning while driving, the shaking, squealing, and instability maybe decreased about 25%, as subjective as that sounds.

There is still, what feels like, a lot of play in the front suspension. The noise makes it sound like it might fall apart, the front suspension feels like it's wobbling side to side, front to back.

How tight should these top strut nuts be? Maybe I will tighten these down some more, and then start focusing on the sway bar.

2007 GT Performance White
Pype Bomb Axleback
JLT Series 3 CAI
Bama 93 Hybrid Tune
Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
Brianwu is offline  
GT Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
Norm Peterson's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Delaware Twp
Posts: 1,646
 
Garage
Notice of your reply went to my spam folder - sorry.

The big center nut gets 59 ft*lbs, and the four little ones that hold everything to the strut tower get 26 ft*lbs. That's from my 2008 factory shop manual, your car should have the same or very similar specs.



Norm

'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
Norm Peterson is offline  
post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018 Thread Starter
PONY Member
 
Brianwu's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Edison
Posts: 722
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
Notice of your reply went to my spam folder - sorry.

The big center nut gets 59 ft*lbs, and the four little ones that hold everything to the strut tower get 26 ft*lbs. That's from my 2008 factory shop manual, your car should have the same or very similar specs.



Norm
Norm, the 4 strut tower nuts have been torqued correctly. I continued to tighten the center nut with minimal resistance until it appeared it was fully threaded down.

With that said, no change in condition. Not only is this sound loud and uncomfortable, it can be heard driving from the outside. People walking and cars next to me have been turning their heads staring as I drive by, so I'm thinking this condition may be serious.

I went through everything for the most part. New struts, new endlinks [tightened well], new sway bar bushings [no real play aside from the minimal gap that you said shouldn't cause an issue], new LCAs, new strut mounts.

I did read, that it may be the strut mount "bearing."

I had swapped the strut mounts with AM's OPR strut mounts, which required that I reuse the factory OEM rubber/plastic bearing from the stock mount. Do you think this rubber bearing is causing this problem? I'm now highly debating buying the GT500 mounts which should replace the strut mount and bearing completely.

THe entire front suspension just feels so unstable. And it feels like it's lower in the suspension. It feels as if almost the LCA is not bolted in completely, and is banging up and down. I definitely hear and feel something metal on metal clunking, squealing, etc. I'm borderline skeptical at this point. To me, it doesn't seem practical that a strut mount could cause the issue down lower, as it almost feels like someone is banging some thing else in the passenger footwell.

2007 GT Performance White
Pype Bomb Axleback
JLT Series 3 CAI
Bama 93 Hybrid Tune
Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
Brianwu is offline  
GT Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
Norm Peterson's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Delaware Twp
Posts: 1,646
 
Garage
I guess the next thing to check would be the K-member bolts and whatever associated bushings. Not sure how this would need to be done, although any loosened bolts would be easy enough to find.


Norm

'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . still almost stock height
'19 WRX, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
Norm Peterson is offline  
BOSS Member
 
Beechkid's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,408
           
Here's how to do it.....


place the car (all 4 corners) on jack stands, take a 2x4 board- 6' long or longer, from the side, place the end under the tire and with a block of wood, cinder block, etc, acting as a fulcrum, move the wheel assembly up and down just a few inches (so as not to make the car unstable) have a 2nd person lying underneath the car near that assembly....you will hear and then be able to visually locate the clunk by feel and then by sight...and you will know what part to replace

:hello:
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II

Last edited by Beechkid; 11-05-2018 at 09:30 PM.
Beechkid is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1