Upgrading intake path - Page 3 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #31 of 78 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019 Thread Starter
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3) Get a 2010 Air Raid or JLT and relocate your power steering reservoir if 05-09. The 2010 CAI is the best due to the lack of the sharp bend to clear the PS reservoir. Relocating it is easy. I can take pictures of mine relocated if you need.

I have not heard about this. I’m sure it would be much better. I’d love to see some pics if you have time.

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That's what I was thinking of doing installing a 2010 C&L cold air on my 05. How did you hang the power steering reservoir. This pic is from a 2010 . The airaid does have a nicer bend to it.



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Last edited by night rider; 02-13-2019 at 10:52 AM.
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post #33 of 78 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019 Thread Starter
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3) Get a 2010 Air Raid or JLT and relocate your power steering reservoir if 05-09. The 2010 CAI is the best due to the lack of the sharp bend to clear the PS reservoir. Relocating it is easy. I can take pictures of mine relocated if you need.
I’m very curious about this. Did you dyno it with a baseline run?
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Just a word of caution.....the engine is just one part of your drivetrain and when horsepower and torque are increased, so are stresses on the other parts of the drivetrain. Nice to have that power, but not so nice to leave a trail of nuts, bolts and goop behind...




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You won't get enough power from N/A bolt ons to break any part of the drivetrain. The TR3650 is rated to 390lbft at the flywheel, and you're only going to get more than that with forced induction.
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Originally Posted by Bradmxz View Post
Iím very curious about this. Did you dyno it with a baseline run?
I have a Department of Boost kit on my car (supercharger), and I am using the factory 2011 GT500 degas bottle, which mounts in the location of the power steering reservoir on an 05-09 Mustang GT. So no N/A dyno runs comparing the 2010 CAI to 05-09. I just know that a few road racers have done it, and it is my tuner's recommended solution (Lito), who also road courses his car, which is an 05-09 with a 5.0 Coyote rotating assembly in a 3v (custom work there and it is posted on his Facebook and S197Forum), EPAS, and a 2010 CAI.

You can use the 2010 bracket from Ford or make your own. I took a piece of scrap aluminum, bent it, and mounted it to the driver's side valve cover.

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Just a word of caution.....the engine is just one part of your drivetrain and when horsepower and torque are increased, so are stresses on the other parts of the drivetrain. Nice to have that power, but not so nice to leave a trail of nuts, bolts and goop behind...
The only thing I've seen break on an N/A car was the rear differential.. on a full drag suspension, custom cam, FBO car with a 6060 and 5.16 gears leaving at over 6k...

There are no breaking drivetrain concerns with such minor modifications. I mean, my car is stock aside from blower, headers, suspension, and cams, has 110k miles, and has survived the past couple of years at 470whp.

There is ZERO need to upgrade rear ends and transmissions for a CAI.

Current:
2007 Mustang GT 302 stroker 6060 swap, 3.73 gears, Hidden Hitch Receiver, Barton Short Throw, JBA LTs, Borla Touring Axle Back, Lito tuned SCT X4. BMR SP009, Bilsteins, J&M CC plates, J&M LCAs. 4 Piston Brembos
DOB GT450 with VMP Gen II 2.3 TVS | 13/14 GT500 HE & IWP | GT500 hat & DW340s | FRPP 52lb | CMS Stage 2 Blower Cams | Comp 113 Springs & Retainers | 8 rib conversion | Track Spec GT500 Vents | PTFE Heat Barriers
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Could be correct, but have you ever noticed that when individuals add performance to their car, they tend to push the vehicle past itís capabilities. Fun to watch the vehicles on the dyno at car shows (Myrtle Beach for example) or tire burnouts or at the local drag strip...

Also, I place some trust in Fordís engineering and manufacturing but Iím not willing to push my car to the extreme even when the ďexpertsĒ or vendors say itís ok to do so.




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Also, I place some trust in Fordís engineering and manufacturing but Iím not willing to push my car to the extreme even when the ďexpertsĒ say itís ok to do so.
OP isn't pushing anything. A CAI and tune is far from "extreme".

At a point, yes, upgrading becomes mandatory. That's why my stroker as ARP hardware throughout, billet timing chain guides, a billet oil pump, limited phasers, etc., why it is getting a 6060 or 6R80, and why the rear end is getting an Eaton True-Trac. But for a bolt on only car, absolutely none of that is necessary.

There are limitations all over the place. Most N/A modifications come no where close to them. Remember, automotive manufacturers must engineer a design with a "safety factor". It has to be reliable in stock form behind the dumbest SOB to walk the earth. So put it behind a smart man that cares for and maintains his car, and they can be pushed pretty far. As far as drivetrain goes, Tremec lists the ratings for the transmission and the 8.8 rear end is well established since its implementation nearly half of a century ago, neither of which are anywhere near a CAI and tune's capabilities.

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2007 Mustang GT 302 stroker 6060 swap, 3.73 gears, Hidden Hitch Receiver, Barton Short Throw, JBA LTs, Borla Touring Axle Back, Lito tuned SCT X4. BMR SP009, Bilsteins, J&M CC plates, J&M LCAs. 4 Piston Brembos
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I noticed in the video of lenoís Garage, the engineer specifically stated that the intake for the ďboss 302Ē was extensively tested. When he said that there was no gain from aftermarket was he strictly speaking the boss 302? .
It's the law of physics.....an engines air intake is directly related to how much air it can physically suck into each cylinder....nothing more, nothing less. The only thing that changes the rules is if you significantly increase the RPM or install a blower/supercharger...Ö because you are now force feeding the air above atmospheric pressure

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One sees posts here on the forum regarding bolt on hardware and issues with canned tunes. This is one example of problems and potential engine damage. Lots of posts on quality made mustangs breaking, for no reason? Sure!




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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlee910 View Post
. . . automotive manufacturers must engineer a design with a "safety factor". . . .
those safety factors can be substantial; and most basic performance modifications are a game of reducing the safety factor, without going too far

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Originally Posted by Beechkid View Post
It's the law of physics.....an engines air intake is directly related to how much air it can physically suck into each cylinder....nothing more, nothing less. The only thing that changes the rules is if you significantly increase the RPM or install a blower/supercharger...Ö because you are now force feeding the air above atmospheric pressure
The basic physics is that all fluid flow is driven by pressure differentials; there is no such thing as vacuum, only less pressure; the air fuel mix is actually pushed in by the atmospheric pressure that reaches the intake valves; and the point of any intake improvement is to reduce the pressure drop through the intake so that more air/fuel mix gets pushed in through the valves. Any measure of flow (CFM) through a system such as an intake is meaningless without the corresponding pressure drop; because the point is to reduce the pressure drop; with zero being the best theoretically possible (but never achieved). That said, for practical purposes, the pressure drop through the stock intake is pretty low, so there isn't much gain to be had; but there is some.

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One sees posts here on the forum regarding bolt on hardware and issues with canned tunes. This is one example of problems and potential engine damage. Lots of posts on quality made mustangs breaking, for no reason? Sure!
With minor "bolt on" mods or tunes, the reason is not the increased output of the engine, but instead "bad tunes" that do things like advance the timing too much, or lean the mixture too much, which causes detonation or overheating, which breaks things. Or bad parts that simply do not work right; or a tune that is not correctly written for the parts used.
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Yes...yes....yes!

Exactly what Iím writing about plus installing performance technology on a worn out engine/car plus driver/mechanic error.

I love mustangs and I hate to see other car lovers suffer damage because of the above.
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Maybe thatís why aftermarket tunes claim to gain so much. If the ecu is just dumping fuel on top end because it canít accurately read the amount of air coming in, then maybe all there doing is getting and accurate reading on it and leaning out the a/f ratio.
Actually what my dyno runs showed was that at those peak RPMs the ECU was not adding the fuel you would expect, and causing it to run leaner than it should be, This was confirmed via the wideband. The Roush intake and appropriate tune fixed the issue, not because the Roush is allowing that much more air into the engine, tho it is a really smooth inside, like glass actually, a very nice intake, but the change in diameter at the MAF and associated recalibration is the secret ingredient that corrects the issue with it peaking, and not getting that little bit more fuel, and last bit of power at the top end.

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post #45 of 78 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019 Thread Starter
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Just a word of caution.....the engine is just one part of your drivetrain and when horsepower and torque are increased, so are stresses on the other parts of the drivetrain. Nice to have that power, but not so nice to leave a trail of nuts, bolts and goop behind...
Seriously? I thank you for the input, but 20hp is not gonna break anything. The manufacturers already have safety tolerances factored in. They say a part is rated at a certain capacity when in actually it can exceed that capacity. Often way over that capacity. The problem is how many times can it do this. So they set the limit a lot lower in most cases so that there will never be a problem, only on a freak occurrence.

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