Just bought an Aluminum Driveshaft, also doing Posi, anything else to do? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019 Thread Starter
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Just bought an Aluminum Driveshaft, also doing Posi, anything else to do?

Hey Guys

First off, its an 07 GT, 5 speed manual, per my signature below.

So i wanted to see the input of others on this, My Posi seems to have bad clutches in it, this is already known for some time now, and its getting rebuilt soon, and i picked up a spicer Aluminum Driveshaft to do at the same time, I have wanted to do that one for a while to lighten things up, and lately ive been getting a lot of vibration noise out back, and i think the old shaft is going going almost gone. Anywho...

Is there anything else that it would be a good time to do while the car is up on a lift, The axle bearings, posi bearing, and all that are already on the list so dont bother there, but anything else i will regret not swapping out while im under there?

Im also planning a clutch job as well, but thats less pressing right now as the posi is grinding every time i go around a damn corner somewhat tightly under any kind of power, and tire skipping a lot more then normal, had it checked and the shop said after a test drive that it is definitely misbehaving, i also had an incident where i almost crashed because i stepped on it a bit on a wet road, not a lot, but it kicked out sideways, to the right heavily, and it seems to do that now anytime i break traction, as if the passenger side rear wheel is taking most of the power.

Anyway i thought about gears also, but decided im fine with my 3.55s, seems to be a good mix of power and still not throwing away fuel.

Raven Industries(they have a new name also) in Tempe, Arizona did the Auburn posi/gear job on my 2004 convertible, and it was bulletproof so im going back to them since the price is good, and the work never failed. The specialize in drive-train stuff, gears, posi, transfer case, etc.


2007 Mustang GT Deluxe Edition 5 Speed - White, Red Shelby Stripes
Roush Intake, 322 LPH Fuel Pump, 3.55 Gears, Dana Spicer Aluminum Driveshaft, Magnaflow Race Series Axle-Backs, 91 Oct. Dyno Tuning
255/50/R17 NITTO 555s, Slotted Rotors
324 RWHP, 328 RWTQ - 9-1-2018

1996 Mustang GT Coupe Auto White
2004 Shadow Gray Convertible 4.2L V6
Pacesetter Shortys, 2.5 Duals, Deleted Cats, Custom 2.5 H Pipe, Flowmaster 40s
Auburn Posi with 3.27 gears, 0.5 Phenolic Manifold Spacer
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019
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While you have the differential apart, you could consider swapping in higher ratio axle gears e.g. 3.73 in place of the factory 3.31 ratio. If you do indeed have the optional 3.55 gears, keep them unless you're planning a cam swap later on.


If you want a 2.3 Ecoboost, get the Focus RS.
If you want a Mustang, get the V8.


2006 GT Deluxe - 5MT - 12.52 @ 109.33
311rwhp 328rwtq with stage 1 bolt-ons
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I'd suggest you also consider replacing the upper control arm while you're at it, for two reasons:
1) For the one-piece driveshaft, pinion angle becomes more critical; so an adjustable upper control arm is a good idea, so you can set the pinion angle
2) the bushings where the upper control arm connects to the chassis and the differential do tend to wear out and start clunking eventually


If you do replace the UCA with an adjustable one, consider the complete kit with the mount and arm; with the longer mount from a 2011+ car; this makes the angle change less as the suspension travels . . . not really a big deal, but "might as well while you're at it"



Personally I think the 3.55 rear is "just about right" for most street/general purpose applications but it depends on what you are using the car for and your personal preferences; sounds like you're good with that.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
While you have the differential apart, you could consider swapping in higher ratio axle gears e.g. 3.73 in place of the factory 3.31 ratio. If you do indeed have the optional 3.55 gears, keep them unless you're planning a cam swap later on.
VIN, and speed check on the Dyno reflect 3.55 gears, and im happy with them, and cams aint happening on a motor with 138k on it, if i ever go that far i would go all the way and do a short block, and HCI. Probably a stroker, or else order one of them aluminum 5.4 3V blocks i was told about from australia, supposedly a near direct bolt up to our S197s, except needs a diff intake manifold. Alleviates the need for a steel block to go 5.4, or getting a gt500 one, but heard prices vary greatly, and they are a bit scarce. IF a coyote swap becomes more practical i would probably go there instead.

2007 Mustang GT Deluxe Edition 5 Speed - White, Red Shelby Stripes
Roush Intake, 322 LPH Fuel Pump, 3.55 Gears, Dana Spicer Aluminum Driveshaft, Magnaflow Race Series Axle-Backs, 91 Oct. Dyno Tuning
255/50/R17 NITTO 555s, Slotted Rotors
324 RWHP, 328 RWTQ - 9-1-2018

1996 Mustang GT Coupe Auto White
2004 Shadow Gray Convertible 4.2L V6
Pacesetter Shortys, 2.5 Duals, Deleted Cats, Custom 2.5 H Pipe, Flowmaster 40s
Auburn Posi with 3.27 gears, 0.5 Phenolic Manifold Spacer
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterX View Post
IF a coyote swap becomes more practical i would probably go there instead.
A Coyote swap will never be more practical and it would cost $10+k to complete with everything working as it should. You'd be much better off swapping in a 5.3 Big Bore 3V short block with forged internals and throwing some boost on it. Yeah, I know it would add an extra ~120lb over the nose but who cares when you can have 600+rwhp on tap?
What mods did you do to get to 324rwhp & 328rwtq, and do you have the dyno graph?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
A Coyote swap will never be more practical and it would cost $10+k to complete with everything working as it should. You'd be much better off swapping in a 5.3 Big Bore 3V short block with forged internals and throwing some boost on it. Yeah, I know it would add an extra ~120lb over the nose but who cares when you can have 600+rwhp on tap?
What mods did you do to get to 324rwhp & 328rwtq, and do you have the dyno graph?
I don't need/plan on anywhere near 600 hp, but getting closer to, or into the 400s would be nice, but i also want it to be reliable, not boosting into the territory of reducing the life expectancy of the engine, just because i can throw a blower on my little 4.6 and pull 500ish, doesn't mean i want to, or that it would last with me beating on it, which happens invariably. I want a reliable build, respectable power, that i can beat on all the time, and not blow/break **** and have to fix it constantly. I know in the coyote swap the devil is in the wiring/ecu details, getting the gauges to work, other do dads, etc, but there is always hope that someone will release a kit at some point, tho unlikely.

The closest dyno sheet i can find is from years ago before all hell broke loose with the car, some of which is detailed on this site in various threads, electrical problems galore, culminating in total ECU failure during my honeymoon no less, half way to Vegas near sunset point. Long story short, retainer came loose, and allowed harness to mate with exhaust manifold while parked cockeyed on a hill/slant, all was fine when i rolled up and parked, electronics went batshit insane next time i started it, because for the 20 minutes it was parked, the harness melted/welded itself into the exhaust manifold...

Funny funny, i wonder if the electronics problems are me, not the equipment, because my laptops maxtor hdd also died about 3 months ago, which is where my SCT stuff and run files all live. All i have left is the first dynorun i did right after the Earnhardt Ford dealer fixed everything and relieved me of my wallet, making sure everything was working again, running the stock tune. The only mods i had done on the car at the time of this screenshot was literally replacing some broken vacuum lines. So IF there were any unseen mods, it would be something from the previous owner, as i bought the car in mid 2015.

Mods that would be reflected by the newest dyno tuning are, new upgraded fuel pump, new MAF, Roush Intake(minus spacer), axle backs, and like 8 hours of dyno tuning(3 x visits to AZDynoChip) after i got tired of Bama's tunes making my car ping and detonate randomly. Fuel pump was done as it was causing lean outs, not supplying fuel adequately per the dyno guy, my guess is it either was worn out, or else was damaged by the electrical storm that killed the ECU when the harness shorted to the manifold, it appeared to be original on removal so.... New one made a hell of a difference.
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2007 Mustang GT Deluxe Edition 5 Speed - White, Red Shelby Stripes
Roush Intake, 322 LPH Fuel Pump, 3.55 Gears, Dana Spicer Aluminum Driveshaft, Magnaflow Race Series Axle-Backs, 91 Oct. Dyno Tuning
255/50/R17 NITTO 555s, Slotted Rotors
324 RWHP, 328 RWTQ - 9-1-2018

1996 Mustang GT Coupe Auto White
2004 Shadow Gray Convertible 4.2L V6
Pacesetter Shortys, 2.5 Duals, Deleted Cats, Custom 2.5 H Pipe, Flowmaster 40s
Auburn Posi with 3.27 gears, 0.5 Phenolic Manifold Spacer
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While im here, question, Will it be adequate if i get the LCAs that are fixed position, and just the UCA that is adjustable, or should i get them all adjustable, I dont do autocross, or anything other than redneck **** and the occasional drag racing, not a lot of it, so i don't think i would ever be constantly adjusting things. If there is a significant reason, i can score them, but if not, id rather stick with fixed ones i dont have to bother with.

BTW, when i say redneck sh1t i mean it, the car in my signature is my old 96 GT with a police style light bar so i could go offroad in the desert and backwoods, not to offroad it, but to get to where i like to camp and get away from the world, and have plenty of light to do it.

I attached below, the original picture, which is dark as hell, and then a Gamma enhanced version, which you can see the car, trees, bushes, etc i was parked in when a buddy took the picture from next to the campfire, may 5th 2014
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2007 Mustang GT Deluxe Edition 5 Speed - White, Red Shelby Stripes
Roush Intake, 322 LPH Fuel Pump, 3.55 Gears, Dana Spicer Aluminum Driveshaft, Magnaflow Race Series Axle-Backs, 91 Oct. Dyno Tuning
255/50/R17 NITTO 555s, Slotted Rotors
324 RWHP, 328 RWTQ - 9-1-2018

1996 Mustang GT Coupe Auto White
2004 Shadow Gray Convertible 4.2L V6
Pacesetter Shortys, 2.5 Duals, Deleted Cats, Custom 2.5 H Pipe, Flowmaster 40s
Auburn Posi with 3.27 gears, 0.5 Phenolic Manifold Spacer
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019
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That dyno run looks like a stock set up with a good tune. SAE corrected it's 278rwhp & 284rwtq.

With regard to rear upper & lower control arms, they only need to be adjustable if you add lowering springs. In that case you'd also need an adjustable Panhard bar.

If your power aim is ~450rwhp on a stock short block, I'd suggest you go with the DOB GT450 supercharger kit. Have compression and leakdown tests performed on all cylinders beforehand to confirm good piston ring seal.

If you want a 2.3 Ecoboost, get the Focus RS.
If you want a Mustang, get the V8.


2006 GT Deluxe - 5MT - 12.52 @ 109.33
311rwhp 328rwtq with stage 1 bolt-ons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
That dyno run looks like a stock set up with a good tune. SAE corrected it's 278rwhp & 284rwtq.

With regard to rear upper & lower control arms, they only need to be adjustable if you add lowering springs. In that case you'd also need an adjustable Panhard bar.

If your power aim is ~450rwhp on a stock short block, I'd suggest you go with the DOB GT450 supercharger kit. Have compression and leakdown tests performed on all cylinders beforehand to confirm good piston ring seal.
I dont know if i trust a stock built motor nearing 140k to be blown too hard, makes me wonder if it would ever make it to 200k if i did, i suspect not without issues.

And lowering is not an option for me, i drive the car out to the ranch periodically, and some of the roads are dirt, get kinda rough, lowering would mean no more taking it out there.

2007 Mustang GT Deluxe Edition 5 Speed - White, Red Shelby Stripes
Roush Intake, 322 LPH Fuel Pump, 3.55 Gears, Dana Spicer Aluminum Driveshaft, Magnaflow Race Series Axle-Backs, 91 Oct. Dyno Tuning
255/50/R17 NITTO 555s, Slotted Rotors
324 RWHP, 328 RWTQ - 9-1-2018

1996 Mustang GT Coupe Auto White
2004 Shadow Gray Convertible 4.2L V6
Pacesetter Shortys, 2.5 Duals, Deleted Cats, Custom 2.5 H Pipe, Flowmaster 40s
Auburn Posi with 3.27 gears, 0.5 Phenolic Manifold Spacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterX View Post
. . . Will it be adequate if i get the LCAs that are fixed position, and just the UCA that is adjustable, or should i get them all adjustable, . . .
UCA provides the adjustment for pinion angle. Adjustable LCA's allow you to get the thrust angle perfect, and also play with length of the LCA which I guess can be helpful in some racing situations. I think the adjustable UCA is all you really need, but if you want to spend a few extra dollars for adjustable LCA's then they will be there if you want that fine tuning someday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
That dyno run looks like a stock set up with a good tune. SAE corrected it's 278rwhp & 284rwtq. . . .
Which seems about right for the mods listed; don't know where the additional 50 HP in his signature is coming from. I would not expect to get that from a fuel pump upgrade and a dyno tune.

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I dont know if i trust a stock built motor nearing 140k to be blown too hard, makes me wonder if it would ever make it to 200k if i did, i suspect not without issues . . . .
425-450 at the wheels is not blowing it very hard, I think about 7 psi??? Generally accepted as "safe" for an engine that is in decent shape, and with a good tune and not run up too high on the RPM. DOB has pretty good info on this, on their web site. With 140 K there are probably some things to look after first, but likely nothing major.

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Quote:
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I dont know if i trust a stock built motor nearing 140k to be blown too hard, makes me wonder if it would ever make it to 200k if i did, i suspect not without issues.

And lowering is not an option for me, i drive the car out to the ranch periodically, and some of the roads are dirt, get kinda rough, lowering would mean no more taking it out there.
Like I said, the main issue is piston ring seal on a high mileage engine so if compression tests on all cylinders show a difference of not more than 10% between the highest and lowest, you're good to go. The engine won't suffer any harm with a conservative 7psi of boost (good for ~410-420rwhp) and a safe tune.

Since you're not planning to lower the car, you can go for fixed length LCAs with urethane bushings to reduce wheel hop, and replace the differential side bushings in the stock UCA with urethane units. You can also install urethane panhard bar bushings to limit lateral axle movement during hard cornering.
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Like I said, the main issue is piston ring seal on a high mileage engine so if compression tests on all cylinders show a difference of not more than 10% between the highest and lowest, you're good to go. The engine won't suffer any harm with a conservative 7psi of boost (good for ~410-420rwhp) and a safe tune.
Nice to know for the future...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
Since you're not planning to lower the car, you can go for fixed length LCAs with urethane bushings to reduce wheel hop, and replace the differential side bushings in the stock UCA with urethane units. You can also install urethane panhard bar bushings to limit lateral axle movement during hard cornering.
I already ordered the BMR kit that includes the Fixed Upper and Lowers, so they will match in red, and have new poly bushings etc. I thought about cheaping out and getting the SR's but my gutt just told me they looked super flimsy and cheap, and i wanted something that looked better made.

2007 Mustang GT Deluxe Edition 5 Speed - White, Red Shelby Stripes
Roush Intake, 322 LPH Fuel Pump, 3.55 Gears, Dana Spicer Aluminum Driveshaft, Magnaflow Race Series Axle-Backs, 91 Oct. Dyno Tuning
255/50/R17 NITTO 555s, Slotted Rotors
324 RWHP, 328 RWTQ - 9-1-2018

1996 Mustang GT Coupe Auto White
2004 Shadow Gray Convertible 4.2L V6
Pacesetter Shortys, 2.5 Duals, Deleted Cats, Custom 2.5 H Pipe, Flowmaster 40s
Auburn Posi with 3.27 gears, 0.5 Phenolic Manifold Spacer
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Quote:
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... I already ordered the BMR kit that includes the Fixed Upper and Lowers . . . .
Fixed upper will not give you the ability to adjust the pinion angle, which is important with the one-piece aluminum driveshaft; unless it has CV joints, and unless you luck out and it does not need to be adjusted

if you have vibrations and/or noise with the new d/s, this might be why

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I have a Driveshaft Shop aluminum driveshaft, BMR fixed length LCAs with relocation brackets, a stock UCA, and stock springs. No vibes up to 120mph (haven't dared to go higher due to random police speed traps).
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^ ^ ^ does the driveshaft shop shaft have CV joint(s)?

If yes, then that supposedly eliminates the "phasing" issues caused by the angles of the front and rear U-joints. But there are trade-offs and a lot of the aluminum one-piece driveshafts do not have CV joints, so the pinion angle is important.

I don't know if the "spicer Aluminum Driveshaft" that the OP got has CV joints or not. The lower cost shafts such as Shaftmasters use u-joints and a slip joint, not CV joint.

If I remember correctly, -1 degree is "about right" but in some cases it might need to be tweaked to eliminate the vibrations (in a shaft without CV joints).


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