2006 mustang gt, quickly overheating - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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1. Fill the cooling system from the expansion reservoir until the level reaches the COLD FULL line.

2. Start the engine and let it idle with the cap off. This will evacuate more air so top up the reservoir as required.

3. Loosen the Allen head bleeder screw on the coolant crossover to evacuate any remaining air (apply a rag around it prior to opening to avoid creating a mess). If there are no bubbles, retighten it.

4. Make sure the expansion reservoir is properly topped up, screw on the cap, and go for a 10+ minute drive. Once finished, park the car with the front pointing uphill if possible.

5. After a minimum 4 hour cool down, recheck the coolant level in the expansion reservoir and top up as required.



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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I will have the mechanic check to see if it is running lean, ill also recheck the coolant and take those steps to make sure air is evacuated.
did notice something interesting though over the weekend. took my 1st long drive since the parts were replaced and this heat problem started. when I stay above 50 the temp will come down to 194-195. but as soon as I slow down to a stop at a light, the temp will increase again. Didn't see this before with the short drives since I didn't stay above 50 very long.


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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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. . . . when I stay above 50 the temp will come down to 194-195. but as soon as I slow down to a stop at a light, the temp will increase again. . . . .
this suggests that either:

a) the low speed fan is not coming on, or not coming on soon enough (when you are moving, especially over 50, there is plenty of air flowing through the radiator without the fan)
or
b) the higher temperature that it rises to is normal, not a problem; but you are noticing it now and think it is a problem (see earlier posts about what is normal operating temperature)

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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Does your fan kick on when you turn on the A/C? Do this test while it's parked. Don't mean to talk down to you but you'd be surprised.
The reason I ask these questions is you said it runs at normal temps on freeway but gets hot when you hit red lights.
The 05-09 GTs are notorious for cooling fan failures.

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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes7569 View Post
I will have the mechanic check to see if it is running lean, ill also recheck the coolant and take those steps to make sure air is evacuated.
did notice something interesting though over the weekend. took my 1st long drive since the parts were replaced and this heat problem started. when I stay above 50 the temp will come down to 194-195. but as soon as I slow down to a stop at a light, the temp will increase again. Didn't see this before with the short drives since I didn't stay above 50 very long.
Could be the fan for sure, I’d also check the water pump. If idling maybe the pump isn’t moving enough coolant to keep the temp down. When the engine is above idle while driving the pump will move more coolant. Just a thought. Hope you get it figured out soon. I couldn’t imagine not driving my car because of something like this. I’ve put about 2000 kms on in the last couple days.
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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I don't think there's anything wrong with the water pump but the fan may either be switching on too late in low speed mode, or only working in high speed mode. You might want to check the low speed fan relay, and inspect the bottom of the fuse block for any burnt terminals.
Check at what temperature the fan does switch on and report back. Does it switch on when you use the AC?
On the highway, a temp. of 191-194*F (88-90*C) is normal.
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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
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As for his temps.
watch the humidity, the higher the humidity the more energy transfer the radiator can accomplish, as the moisture in the air aids in thermal transfer from the surface of the radiator blades to the air. A stretch of super dry and hot days can cause higher temps.
Actually, the opposite is true.Thermal transfer decreases as humidity raises with all other factors being equal.

An explanation is given by the rigid-sphere theory of gases, stating that the thermal conductivity is proportional to the specific heat (cv) and inversely proportional to the square of the diameter (d) of the molecule. While water vapor has a higher cv than dry air, d is somewhat larger, resulting in a somewhat smaller thermal conductivity at the same temperature (at room temperature: 0.018 vs. 0.025 W/m�K).
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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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The AC and defrost have had no noticeable change. we did get rain the past 2 days and it was still having the same issue. on the 1st of july I will have it in the shop. Mechanic has been given the details so I will find out soon what is causing the issue.
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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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The AC and defrost have had no noticeable change. . . . .
meaning the fan does NOT come on, when you turn on the A/C? if so, that confirms a fan problem

I guess it's too late since you already took it to the shop, do let us know what you find out, so we can improve our interweb troubleshooting skills ;-)
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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I think I have read through the details on this thread but I do not see any mention of the thermostat. He wrote "when warming up the car the temp goes higher much faster. normally it stops around 192 but it goes up to 218" Isn't that about where/when the thermostat should open up, before the fan kicks in? I also do not see much mention about the loss of coolant. He said there was no observable leak but it was low enough that he felt a need bring it up and ask about proper filling. I think that a prolonged time period of running hot might evaporate the coolant and we do not know what sort of mix or even what coolant was in the system, but there could also be an internal leak into the cylinders. I know I am not really helping here but I just wanted to bring up a few possibilities. I would also like to mention that most of us just think of the liquid in the cooling system as something to cool the engine and worry more about it's anti-freezing properties if you live in the north. I know I often forget to consider the anti corrosion aspect of the coolant until it is too late. I do not think it applies to this situation unless something has really corroded very bad, but it is possible the coolant has never been flushed and changed and it would be well over its lifetime.



I hope we get an update as I also enjoy reading about these issues before they happen to my '06.
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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Good call on the thermostat as it could indeed be malfunctioning.

We're still unsure if there's any actual coolant loss but if there is, a leak from a heater hose in the valley of the engine would be hard to detect. Others would be easier to see unless they're so small that you may only see dried crusts.


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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow06 View Post
I think I have read through the details on this thread but I do not see any mention of the thermostat. . . . .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
Good call on the thermostat as it could indeed be malfunctioning.....
oops yeah I thought he said he already replaced it, way back in post #1, but I must have been confusing this with one of the other recent overheating threads!

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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Mechanics want to check the thermostat but they also want to do a pressure test. The coolant level in the reserve Reservoir was getting low again. The entire time it was in the shop along with when I was looking at it over the weekend there was still no observable leaks. They said the fan was actually kicking on at the correct oil temperatures but today it was a cool temp outside so we are not sure if outside temperature is playing a part.
Also there is no odd smell coming out of the exhaust
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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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don't sweat the filling. using the degas reservoir is easiest but takes forever to get the air out. there is a plug on the coolant crossover (drivers side) that takes a allen wrench to loosen, remove that and fill from there, I believe that is the highest point of the cooling system, at least for the 05- mid 07 GT. after that, Ford put the thermostat there. good luck

Lots of bolt on goodies...
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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I had a 2006 rx8. The water pump would only leak through the weep hole while driving. Making it very hard to find. Wouldn’t leak while idling either. I was ready to tear the engine down when one day my brother in law was driving behind me and noticed something running out the bottom of the car. So I jacked it up in the driveway and got my wife to put in gear as if she was going down the road. Sure enough coolant was coming out of the week hole on the water pump. Good luck I hope you find it soon.

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