2006 mustang gt, quickly overheating - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019 Thread Starter
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2006 mustang gt, quickly overheating

Roush cold air intake (one month ago installed), recommended level of coolant put in after I noticed it was low, no leaks detected.
new fuel pump, new fuel regulator/sensor, new fuel rail sensor, new MAF sensor. the new items were installed last week and are aftermarket but rated to replace stock parts.

when warming up the car the temp goes higher much faster. normally it stops around 192 but it goes up to 218-225 before the fan kicks in and drops it to 201.
When I drive after it gets to 120 degrees the temperature almost staggers. it will do a quick jump by 10 or 20 but as long as I am cruising the temp will level off.
I only noticed it after hooking up my OBD2 to a garmin mechanic HD to see how everything was running. I have never seen anything like this before.

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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019
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First up, 220 is not really overheating, and also, are you monitoring the coolant temp, or the Cylinder Head Temp PIDs? They are not equal and will show differing values. Coolant will always be lower than Cyl Head Temp because the head is where the fire is, coolant is only passing through.

Coolant temp of 200-225 is normal here in arizona where it gets to 115-120^F outside at times, on a really hot day with the A/C on i have seen 230^F on the coolant, I actually have an alarm set at 230^F, and i kick off the A/C if it goes off, which only happens occasionally, and only when stuck idling in dead traffic at a complete stop. In the winter months, even sitting in traffic, i rarely get over 217^F on Coolant Temp.

Now on the Cylinder Head Temp, I have seen as high as 249^F on hot days, especially if im really laying into it at random times. But there is very little documentation from Ford about what temps are acceptable or dangerous on the Cyl Head Temps, though common sense would indicate that since aluminum looses 1/4 of its strength at 300^F that we want to stay as far away from 300^F as possible. So I usually settle down if i see the cyl head getting up towards 249^F.


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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019 Thread Starter
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MasterX;
coolant temp.
even in LA where it was over 90 or 100 I never saw my temp go over 212 and that was being stuck in traffic. When cruising it would be at 192 and that was going up to 70 MPH.
right now where I live it barely gets to 80.
what ever this is, it is not normal
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019
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Wes,

What does the temp look like with the A/C on which causes the cooling fan to be on too. Does the coolant temp ramp up and stay within the normal range that you are familiar with? Or does it overshoot and then drop down like you notice unusual.

Erik

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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019 Thread Starter
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I turned off my AC thinking it would help but nothing seemed to change.

Another update though at least about today, it was still warming up rather quickly however the coolant temp leveled off at 190. I didn't drive any different than before and temperatures today were the same as they have been this past week.
This whole thing is rather confusing
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019
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I would look at the coolant temp sensor and wiring/connector.

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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019
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I'm pretty sure there are two fan settings, "low" and "high" or something like that; with low kicking in around 180 and high kicking in around 200. I don't remember the exact temperatures but it is something like that. The temps can be adjusted in the tune.

So it sounds like maybe the low fan is not kicking in at all, and the high fan is finally coming on when it hits the high temp. That would explain why it does not get that hot when moving -- because it does not need the fan when moving.

Try some searches on here and hopefully you can find the older thread about this with the details. I think it might be the relay for the low fan.

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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019
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JBert, do one of both fans operate when the AC is turned on?

And I didn't read where a tune was installed. Some CAI do not require tunes (not sure if the one bought requires it or not), but it looks like other aftermarket parts he installed were replacememt rated for OEM. But replacing those parts it's not hard to strain the harness onnections on other sensors like the temp sensor. I'm probably grabbing at straws.

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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019 Thread Starter
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No Tunes have been installed, the Roush part did not require it. A few of the older posts were similar to mine but my car doesn't seem to be having the same problem exactly.
I will check the sensor and connections though, but I don't know how to check the fan settings, I'll look that up today
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEZ ST View Post
JBert, do one of both fans operate when the AC is turned on? . . . . And I didn't read where a tune was installed.
I'm pretty sure there is just one physical fan, with two speed settings "low" which comes on first and "high" which comes on at the higher temp setting. I am not sure if the A/C triggers the high or low fan speed, but it does trigger at least one of them.

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Originally Posted by wes7569 View Post
No Tunes have been installed, the Roush part did not require it. A few of the older posts were similar to mine but my car doesn't seem to be having the same problem exactly.
I will check the sensor and connections though, but I don't know how to check the fan settings, I'll look that up today
I didn't mean to suggest that a tune had caused the issue; rather that you can check the fan temperature settings through the tune/tuner if you have one and you want to know the settings. I doubt your OBD2 scanner can read the settings, but it might; but that is only if you want to find out what they are, since that is probably not the issue since it hasn't been changed.

I think there are separate relays for the two fan speeds, and the relay for the low speed might be the issue -- I remember reading about it in some older posts but don't exactly remember the details.

hope that helps and does not add confusion!
~ John

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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019 Thread Starter
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JBert,
no, mine will not be able to see that, it only tells me what the sensors on the car are picking up and codes for the check engine. I will just have to have a mechanic to check it out and the relays. I will keep on eye on here and update what I find out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBert View Post
I'm pretty sure there are two fan settings, "low" and "high" or something like that; with low kicking in around 180 and high kicking in around 200. I don't remember the exact temperatures but it is something like that. The temps can be adjusted in the tune.
The low speed fan actually kicks on near 200^F, and high speed at 230^F on the stock tune, for emissions they have these things running hot, i always adjust mine in the tune to run low speed at 180, and high speed around 190, and it keeps things much cooler, but im also in arizona.

As for his temps.
watch the humidity, the higher the humidity the more energy transfer the radiator can accomplish, as the moisture in the air aids in thermal transfer from the surface of the radiator blades to the air. A stretch of super dry and hot days can cause higher temps.

2007 Mustang GT Deluxe Edition 5 Speed - White, Red Shelby Stripes
Roush Intake, 322 LPH Fuel Pump, 3.55 Gears, Dana Spicer Aluminum Driveshaft, Magnaflow Race Series Axle-Backs, 91 Oct. Dyno Tuning
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The first thing to jump out at me is you replaced fuel components. I have seen faulty fuel pumps before. The other components you replaced can be faulty as well. Fuel also helps cool the engine. A lean condition can cause the temps to spike and jump around like your symptoms. Of course this is only a thought as it wasn’t happening before the new parts. Definitely worth a try. They were the only parts changed and temps were fine before.
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Good call on a possible lean condition. There could also be trapped air in the cooling system.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
Good call on a possible lean condition. There could also be trapped air in the cooling system.
Does anyone know the proper coolant filling procedure for a S197 GT, there seems to be a lot of contention... There are plenty of ways to get it figured out, but there must be an actual set of steps from the MFG to make sure its all 100% proper...


2007 Mustang GT Deluxe Edition 5 Speed - White, Red Shelby Stripes
Roush Intake, 322 LPH Fuel Pump, 3.55 Gears, Dana Spicer Aluminum Driveshaft, Magnaflow Race Series Axle-Backs, 91 Oct. Dyno Tuning
255/50/R17 NITTO 555s, Slotted Rotors
324 RWHP, 328 RWTQ - 9-1-2018

1996 Mustang GT Coupe Auto White
2004 Shadow Gray Convertible 4.2L V6
Pacesetter Shortys, 2.5 Duals, Deleted Cats, Custom 2.5 H Pipe, Flowmaster 40s
Auburn Posi with 3.27 gears, 0.5 Phenolic Manifold Spacer
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