So I had an 02 a few years ago (hence the user name) and just picked up a 2010 GT a few days ago. So far the car is solid, and makes good power. But, the clutch is super hard (harder than the 02 ever was) and shifting is a real challenge sometimes.
I'm assuming it's all stock with 109,xxx miles. The only modification is has would be a pypes muffler delete. Other than that, it seems nothing has been done. The clutch takes quite a bit of effort and switching gears even remotely quick results in a lock-out, particularity 3rd to 4th. Driving around normally it's fine, but shifting quickly at above 4,500rpm or so is just ridiculous. You almost have to clutch in, confirm you made the switch, then drop the clutch and wot. If you try to do that quickly, it will just lock out 4th like I'm hitting between a gate.
Does the stock shifter suck that bad, or am I looking at something else? Clutch line as well as brake / clutch master look good. Nothing is low and it shifts fine (no bad syncro feel) driving normally.
Suggestion: If you purchased it from a dealership, let them know what your issues are. They may be able to address your issues, since you've only had the car a couple of days. You don't want to get stuck with a large repair bill down the road. Good luck.
It sounds like the original clutch is at its wear limit so it's probably time to replace it. The pedal firmness will also return to normal and it should improve the gearshift quality. I'd also replace the stock plastic clutch hydraulic line with a stainless steel braided unit.
My 2010 GT is on the original clutch, original shifter, about 105K miles -- clutch pedal is not real heavy, I do miss 3rd every now and then if shifting in a hurry but don't have much trouble with the other gears.
It sounds to me like Bullit probably has this covered, I think I would start there (new clutch). Next you might want to consider an aftermarket shifter.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, much appreciated!
I did a little more driving today and it's either getting easier or I'm just having a good day. I banged threw the gears pretty good and the clutch grabs really well. I purposely short stroked the clutch (about 50-60% to the floor) and it seemed to work just fine 2nd through 5th.
1st doesn't like to engage with anything but a full stop however, and the clutch has to be all the way down. I'm already considering gears due to the 3.31's. I'm finding I need to give it a lot of throttle in second (lugging, at least IMO) at low rpm (1,000-1,500rpm) because It doesn't like going back to 1st.
I put 93 in the first tank and will continue to do so, but I don't want to kill the engine with unnecessary detonation.
I'm hoping I'm just getting used to it tho. If the clutch is going out, Its not the end of the world and I would much rather change it myself anyways.
Oh and kinda on a side note, my radio illumination seems to be working sometimes and sometimes not. I turn the headlights or parking lights on, the gauges do not dim, no lights come on on the radio / heat control etc.
I wiggled the headlight switch around and everything started working. Got down the road a little ways and the gauge lights got brighter, radio and heat illumination back off. Wiggling the headlights switch did nothing. I'm assuming it's a bad switch?
Yeah it is hard to get into first without coming nearly to a stop. I don't know if there is some intentional limiter on this.
I went from 3.31 gears to 3.73 and I often think about going back. The 3.31's seem to make better use of the engine's torque, and you don't have to shift so quickly in normal traffic. I don't remember a lot of lugging with the 3.31's in second when going around slow corners and stuff but it has been a while. If I had it to do again I might go with 3.55 rear.
The 2010 has adaptive spark timing so it will take advantage of the 93 octane. This should help with low end torque and reduce any chance of pinging. If you are getting pinging by lugging the engine you should be able to hear or feel it.
I think the dash lights are controlled by a light sensor; they don't come on (or dim) when it is light out, they are not directly controlled by the headlight switch. So if you were testing it during the day with fairly bright light on the dash then that probably explains it. If you drove under a bridge or into a dark area, that would explain why they came on; then drive into a brighter area and they undim / go off.
And I guess you are using Firefox browser, like me. For some reason this stupid editor puts in extra line breaks in firefox, it does not do it in other browsers.
Yeah, I played with it today with going back to 1st. It's usually on like 90 degree turns. Where I work there is a narrow 35mph straight, 90 degree right, then 55mph and giving it a lot of throttle at 1,000rpm in 2nd worries me. I did get it back in first twice today, it just takes a little finesse and it is very picky.
Yes, I did notice that this morning. I left when it was kinda dark and all the lights worked and illuminated. At lunch time (overcast) the lights did not work. Same after work, lights did not work. I guess it's just a feature lol.
Good call. Yes, Firefox and I was wondering that myself. I know I didn't add all those extra spaces.
So I've put about 1,500 miles on the car so far. I'm getting used to the power and shifting (07 MX5 previous car), but what is the deal with 1st gear? I have to put it 100% to the floor to get it into 1st gear smoothly. Otherwise it will make a light pop, pop, pop sound or just lock me out until I push it to the floor. Is that normal? Only first I have this issue.
And I see why everyone misses 3rd gear lol. I'm going to chalk it up to worn shifter bushings or design. There seems to be quite a bit of play while in gear, side to side. I plan on getting an aftermarket shifter this spring (MGW Flat Shifter probably) so I'm hoping that solves the problem.
Other than that, it's a solid car. I went with my tried and true Mobil 1 extended performance 10w-30 and a K&N filter at about 500miles in and I plan on changing the fuel filter out this weekend.
. . . what is the deal with 1st gear? I have to put it 100% to the floor to get it into 1st gear smoothly. Otherwise it will make a light pop, pop, pop sound or just lock me out until I push it to the floor. Is that normal? Only first I have this issue. . . . .
I guess you are talking about the clutch when you say push it to the floor . . . I do that pretty much all the time without thinking about it, so haven't really noticed this. When stopped and engaging first I have the clutch on the floor. When rolling I don't usually go down to first, usually stay in second.
In S197 models through 2010, the MT82 Shifter has had a history of bad performance. And the M82 has had a history of missed shifts. I believe Ford upgraded the M82 with the -D4 and that improved things starting in the 2011 model year.
Some years back there was a thread in the S197 forums with maybe 100 or more posts about the shifter linkage and cheap plastic components. I gave it a quick search but did not locate the thread but if you come across it, its some good reading.
Also, the factory hydraulic clutch in the S197 is stiff. That became very apparent to me when I installed an Exedy clutch kit and found that I didn't need half the leg pressure to push in the clutch and the clutch was not so grabby when the clutch pedal was immediately raised off the floor. With the Excedy Hyd clutch I could actually feather the clutch better which made city driving much better.
Thanks - - I think I got it backwards on the application. That's what trying to use a faulty memory gets me.
But I am still pretty sure the lengthy Thread was on some nylon part inside the manual transmission or shifter fork that was giving early S197 owners grief.
Yeah, something isn't right. An '05+ TR3650 refusing to go into gear is almost always caused by shift linkage misalignment due to engine and trans movement relative to the body mounted shifter. You have more than fixed that issue.
I stopped missing gears after the simple swap to poly motor mounts, even when I still had the stock shifter.
You're basically left with a broken or improperly installed clutch, air in the hydraulics, a bad slave cylinder or internal trans damage as the possible cause of your shifting problems.
Crawled under again to see what the "loose" feel was all about. It's just the design / stiffness of the centering springs. The blowfish bracket ever so slightly moves when you move the shifter back and forth in neutral. I yanked the entire assembly apart, shift rod, bushings etc and cleaned / re-greased. No issues and no play.
Another interesting thing I found. If I'm driving around at lower speed, I can literally stroke the clutch in maybe 2 inches and it shifts like butter. Yet to go into first gear, I have to be buried to the floor. Maybe my issue is that I'm over extending the pressure plate rather than not pushing it in enough... I'm a assuming a diaphragm clutch will clamp back down once it reaches past full disengagement yes?
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