2007 Mustang GT, Front end camber kits? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008 Thread Starter
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Question 2007 Mustang GT, Front end camber kits?

hey guys, thanks again for all your help with my last problems. i finally got the hypertech tuner programmed perfectly, and after talking to a tech at BBK we got the idle situation back to perfect.

now i have a new question. i just dropped the car 1.5" with ford racing springs but i used my original struts. i havent taken the car in for a proper alignment yet, im waiting for the springs to settle some. i did however check the toe in before lowering it with a home made toe guage and i set the alignment back to those specs after it was lowered. with the weight on the tires both times of course.

but i notice now the tops of the tires are slightly inward.. negative camber im sure you call it. and i was wondering if there is a way to get enough adjustment out of the stock parts or should i go with a camber kit. i know steeda has one but they are $200+

what have you guys done to correct the camber?

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008
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I bought a set of camber bolts for $35. You will need to make the hole oval to get it back to stock. This is a cheap way to do it.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008
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Can you round out the holes on these cars? I would advise against it anyway.
Just go to napa and get the camber bolts.
Mine after the same drop was still in specs actually. Was on the very edge of the neg camber spec. But thats where I wanted it for road racing/street driving mix

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Xcal2, JLTII, UDP, ProKit, Dspecs, Bump Steer kit, SS brake hoses, Strut Tower Brace, UCA, Adj.LCA's, AntiSquats, Panhard bar, MGW shifter, Steeda cowl hood, Hood pins, MRT hood struts*, 14" Antenna, Sequencial TL's, 07 Plenum cover, PJ Saleen heritage fascia, CDC ductail, SSE 1/4 window louvers, MAG mirror inserts, Rear trunk painted, MGW window switch plates, Billet door lock pins, Interior trunk release, Tint.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008
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Enlighten me... what do these camber bolts look like and where do they go.

I'm afraid if I go down to the parts store and ask for camber bolts they are going to look at me like i'm crazy.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008
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They replace the top strut bolt

this is what napas look like
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'06 Tungsten GT 18" CT-R Gunmetals
Xcal2, JLTII, UDP, ProKit, Dspecs, Bump Steer kit, SS brake hoses, Strut Tower Brace, UCA, Adj.LCA's, AntiSquats, Panhard bar, MGW shifter, Steeda cowl hood, Hood pins, MRT hood struts*, 14" Antenna, Sequencial TL's, 07 Plenum cover, PJ Saleen heritage fascia, CDC ductail, SSE 1/4 window louvers, MAG mirror inserts, Rear trunk painted, MGW window switch plates, Billet door lock pins, Interior trunk release, Tint.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoenr View Post
They replace the top strut bolt

this is what napas look like


I'm looking at these GT500 strut mounts (FRPP $66) to replace the stock mounts. After a year my mounts have worn out and make a lot of noise. These are stronger than the stock GT mounts.

Thanks for the camber bolt suggestions, stoenr. You just saved me $220 for some adjustable mounts. Oops. I'm not sure if the bolts on these heavy mounts are removable, though.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008
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I'd recommend camber plates/mounts. The OEM mounts are considered single use and aren't very good. These are the ones I use StangSuspension.com Camber Plates - For 05-08 Mustangs - StangSuspension.com

1965 Mustang Coupe

Last edited by stlwagon; 04-18-2008 at 10:07 AM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2008
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I got new OE mounts for free under the TSB and installed them when I put my struts/shocks in. OE ones rattled from day one.
Its like a different car now.

'06 Tungsten GT 18" CT-R Gunmetals
Xcal2, JLTII, UDP, ProKit, Dspecs, Bump Steer kit, SS brake hoses, Strut Tower Brace, UCA, Adj.LCA's, AntiSquats, Panhard bar, MGW shifter, Steeda cowl hood, Hood pins, MRT hood struts*, 14" Antenna, Sequencial TL's, 07 Plenum cover, PJ Saleen heritage fascia, CDC ductail, SSE 1/4 window louvers, MAG mirror inserts, Rear trunk painted, MGW window switch plates, Billet door lock pins, Interior trunk release, Tint.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-18-2008
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PM me if you decide to go the castor/camber plate route: I have a set of almost new ones from MMR.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlwagon View Post
I'd recommend camber plates/mounts. The OEM mounts are considered single use and arene't very good. These are the ones I use StangSuspension.com Camber Plates - For 05-08 Mustangs - StangSuspension.com
Agreed these are the best.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troon2004 View Post
PM me if you decide to go the castor/camber plate route: I have a set of almost new ones from MMR.
List them in the AFM Classifieds!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoenr View Post
They replace the top strut bolt

this is what napas look like
One set of tops camber bolts got me into acceptable negative camber territory after my 1.25 drop.

Note that you can do two sets, one to kick the top out, and one to kick the bottom out. It is understood however, that these bolts can't be torqued as much as stock bolts and may slip -- two sets increases possibility.

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Thanks all for the good advice! Troon is setting me up with a pair of adjustable mounts, and I ordered an Eibach Prokit (i.e. the same springs found in Ford's handling pack and the Shelby GT).

I have learned more on this forum in the past week than I have in the past year elsewhere. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, everyone.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2008 Thread Starter
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thanks guys, i think im going to go with the cheap way out this time for now, just to see if i like the way it handles. im not planning on road course racing the car but i do like to try my luck on off ramps. eventually i will most likely do adjustable top plates.

now i have to go shopping haha

also...im back to square one with my tuning problems.. check engine light keeps coming on again.
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