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autometer coolant temp gauge partially not working.

6K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  ironmike666 
#1 ·
Got my temp gauge installed, the light works on it, but the needle doesn't move. I heard it click once like the instructions said it would...but no movement. Had the stock gauge up to where it usually is...autometer needle just sat on the pin.

Is there anything I can do try to fix this?? If the lights are working shouldnt the gauge be working?? I even took the sensor connection off and put it back on...everything seemed good. wires from sensor don't look damaged at all.
HELP
 
#3 ·
^ plus 1......double check the hot and ground wires.
 
#4 ·
will do. I just thought cuz the light on the gauge is working that it had power?? I'll give it a try. Seriously, thanks...my patience for wiring is non existent. Let ya know how she goes tomorrow.
 
#6 ·
I tapped into two wires off the light switch/
tapped into 2 wires off the light switch???? the wire goin to the sending unit is the problem. you sure you ahve a wire goi out to the sending unit? not the other light switch wire?
 
#7 ·
Mickmach...You lost me.

There's 5 wires that come outta the gauge. 3 of them are open ended...one is a ground and one needs to be a "switched" 12V and the other one is supposed to be a "switchable" wire I believe.

Then the 2 other wires that come from the gauge have the male end for the sending unit on them..
 
#9 ·
Does your sending unit have 1 wire or 2 comeing out of it? If its a 1 wire sending unit it grounds through then sending unit itself. If you put teflon tape or thread sealent around the threads it will not ground and your guage will not work. This is why the lights would work on the guage but not the guage itself. The lights are grounded seperatly from the sending unit.
 
#12 ·
they work!!! well the temp gauge anyway...and the lights on the boost gauge too. Didn't know if I should actually hook up the power on the wideband gauge if I didn't have any of the sending units hooked up. Just gotta hook them up and put in a fuse and it should work. then throw the FI on and hook up the boost line and she'll be good to go.

I went to the fuse box on the pass. side for the switched 12V signal. And for lights I tapped into the yellow with a light blue stripe wire(from the light switch....it works, and dims too.:happyhapp

Just grounded to ground behind the kick panel on drivers side.

Thanks all of you for your help. It wasn't too bad once I started to listen to you guys. THANKS fellow stangers

Next I'll need to find out where the WOT sensor is...and whatever else I need to hook up for the WB....once exhaust is installed. tomorrow or shortly after. If anyone has pics of where they installed the bung on a set of kooks longtubes..feel free to post it for me.
 
#13 ·
Glad to hear you got your temp gauge worked out. I assume it was the gauge power wire that was suggested. Good luck with your WB. Just make sure to test fit the headers to ensure your O2 sensor has enough clearance.
 
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