2005 mustang throttle sensor voltage?? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2009 Thread Starter
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2005 mustang throttle sensor voltage??

I have a 2005 mustang gt with a zex 100shot and my car keeps going into failsafe engine mode and the codes all point to the throttle position sensor. The descriptions are voltage correlation with the tps and a few others that all involve the tps. How to i check the voltage of the tps and what is the voltage supposed to be at idle as well as WOT?


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2009
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Probe the bottom (yellow) wire on the TPS harness. You should see between 1.19 and 1.31 volts with key on/engine off.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2009 Thread Starter
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i JUST checked and with the igniton on and engine off it read 1.21volts and at WOT 4.32 volts is this correct? if not how do i adjust?

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-31-2009
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I was getting the same thing. 2106,2135 and fail safe. Changed the TPS problem gone. I also did the throttle pedal adjust. Just search and you will find the thread. GA

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-31-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyeeatrice View Post
i JUST checked and with the igniton on and engine off it read 1.21volts and at WOT 4.32 volts is this correct? if not how do i adjust?
Those voltages are fine.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009
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The voltage at idle and max open are ok. Does that mean that the voltages increase and decrease as they are supposed to in between? If they jump to a higher number with a small throttle movement than it is supposed to that may send the computer to fail safe. The only way to check would be to compare to another TPS.

05GT, 09 GT500 Drivetrain, 2.6 pulley, JLT intake, 18x9.5 GT500 wheels, 14" Brembos, 2014 rear brakes, 14 cooling fan, Cortex racing Koni Coilovers, Cortex Watts Link BMR:K-Member, Tube rad support, adj upper third link, rear relo brackets,JBA long tubes and catted mid pipe, Stillen adj front & rear sway bars, Bump steer kit, Steeda shifter, Spydershaft Aluminum DS.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009 Thread Starter
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i agree it keeps going into failsafe about once every 2 days and its always during acceleration. Im guessing that the voltages during acceleration are off ill have the new tps this week and let everyone know if it solved the problem.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyeeatrice View Post
i agree it keeps going into failsafe about once every 2 days and its always during acceleration. Im guessing that the voltages during acceleration are off ill have the new tps this week and let everyone know if it solved the problem.
You might have a failing throttle actuator motor.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-08-2009
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Quote:
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You might have a failing throttle actuator motor.
That is an easy check to see if there are any broken or scarred teeth on the plastic gears inside the motor housing. Stlwagon, do you know how to actually check the actuator motor? Is there a seperate code if the motor was bad? Can you put 12v to it to see if it operates or is it stepped down to a lower voltage considering it gets its requirments from the computer?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyalpusa View Post
That is an easy check to see if there are any broken or scarred teeth on the plastic gears inside the motor housing. Stlwagon, do you know how to actually check the actuator motor? Is there a seperate code if the motor was bad? Can you put 12v to it to see if it operates or is it stepped down to a lower voltage considering it gets its requirments from the computer?
There is a code for the motor itself. I'll have to see if I can find it.

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I have a book by a fellow named PROBST who describes the inner workings of the old EEC-IV computers on the 5.0s. Told how to check almost every sensor and actuator on the car.. Wish he would do the same for the S-197s and the new computer. Its probably too complex, take about a 1000 pages to explain it.

05GT, 09 GT500 Drivetrain, 2.6 pulley, JLT intake, 18x9.5 GT500 wheels, 14" Brembos, 2014 rear brakes, 14 cooling fan, Cortex racing Koni Coilovers, Cortex Watts Link BMR:K-Member, Tube rad support, adj upper third link, rear relo brackets,JBA long tubes and catted mid pipe, Stillen adj front & rear sway bars, Bump steer kit, Steeda shifter, Spydershaft Aluminum DS.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyalpusa View Post
I have a book by a fellow named PROBST who describes the inner workings of the old EEC-IV computers on the 5.0s. Told how to check almost every sensor and actuator on the car.. Wish he would do the same for the S-197s and the new computer. Its probably too complex, take about a 1000 pages to explain it.
That would be extremely useful!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyalpusa View Post
That is an easy check to see if there are any broken or scarred teeth on the plastic gears inside the motor housing. Stlwagon, do you know how to actually check the actuator motor? Is there a seperate code if the motor was bad? Can you put 12v to it to see if it operates or is it stepped down to a lower voltage considering it gets its requirments from the computer?
From the wiring diagram the voltage is not a constant voltage. My assumption (without a circuit diagram to go from) is since DC motor speed(actuator motor) is proportional to voltage(the more voltage you put to a dc motor the faster it runs) that the actuator motor voltage can be anywhere from 0 to 12v depending on how quick the ECU wants the throttle plate to move.

I don't know for a fact that this is correct but it sure sounds good

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