misfire #7 2005 Mustang - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010 Thread Starter
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misfire #7 2005 Mustang

Misfire # 7 I have checked all connections everything is hooked up.
I also checked and cleaned the TB and MAS which inproved the rough idle but it came right back along with the check engine light.

HELP!HELP!HELP!

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010
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Possibly a bad coil. Swap one from another cylinder and see if the code follows it.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaney View Post
Misfire # 7 I have checked all connections everything is hooked up.
I also checked and cleaned the TB and MAS which inproved the rough idle but it came right back along with the check engine light.

HELP!HELP!HELP!
Perform a leak down and comp. check, could be a bent valve or bad rings.............good luck
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-02-2010 Thread Starter
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Hi Guys,
Moved the coilpack from c#7 to c#1 code did not follow, now the car is making a tapping noise that I cant find. I saw a thread about the flywheel making a noise:?: I can't belive I am having all this trouble behind changing a set of plugs on a car with 58k on it.:kooky:THNAKS FOR THE HELP LOVE THIS FOURM
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010
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Does it make the tapping noise only when cold?

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010 Thread Starter
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It started out when cold and now when the cars warms up the tapping starts.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010
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That could be a valvetrain issue.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010
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Perhaps try checking out these two TSB's.

04-16-1 Engine misfire or rough running.
05-15-8 Ticking and/or knocking noise from engine.

Another thing to try is to wait until it is completely dark, then open the hood and start the car (Warning: do not do this in a garage with the door closed) to see if you can spot spark jumping from the coil to ground. I'm thinking the ticking noise you hear could be a spark grounding noise.

Is the ticking noise coming from the top of the motor or from under the car at the front wheel well area?

2005 black GT premium (5spd) / GT500 front LCA/upper strut mounts / Koni Adjustable (yellow)shocks with Roush Springs / FRPP 4:10 rear gear / BMR rear UCA/LCA+relocation brackets / MGW Shifter / Bassani axle backs / Cervinis heat extractor hood and Ducktail spoiler / Carroll Shelby CS69 20x9/20x10 wheels / MSD Blaster 2 coils / Roush TVS2300 Supercharger+Brenspeed 560R upgrade / Exedy Mach 500 Stage 3 Clutch / Exedy lightweight flywheel / SR Performance braided stainless clutch Line / Afco Dual Fan Heat Exchanger upgrade / JLT Catch Can / Axle Exchange one piece aluminum DS / Silly grin on my face every time I turn the key.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010
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Another suggestion is to swap the #7 plug to see if the code follows it. If it does, then that plug may have a porcelain insulator that cracked during installation.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2010 Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the repiles. Ok I gave in and went to the dealer heres what they found. changed the connector on #7 coil pack and the spark plug was bad replaced.The tapping noise they think that a peice of the old plug may have nicked the cyclinder and the noise should go away,I lost 2% comperssion which is still causing a rough idle they said this should also go away. Well this morning the check engine light came back on and started to flicker until it went steady. CMAN where do I refer to the ## you posted? 04-16-1 and 05-15-8 and you can hear it better by the front tire well.
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Quote:
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CMAN where do I refer to the ## you posted? 04-16-1 and 05-15-8 and you can hear it better by the front tire well.

Check out TBS 5-15-08 on the first page of the TBS under "Rechecks" it is mentioned in section #2 and on the second page of the TBS under the section titled "Valvetrain" there is also mention of how to check for possible lifter noise. These TSBs are available in the top section of this forum.

2005 black GT premium (5spd) / GT500 front LCA/upper strut mounts / Koni Adjustable (yellow)shocks with Roush Springs / FRPP 4:10 rear gear / BMR rear UCA/LCA+relocation brackets / MGW Shifter / Bassani axle backs / Cervinis heat extractor hood and Ducktail spoiler / Carroll Shelby CS69 20x9/20x10 wheels / MSD Blaster 2 coils / Roush TVS2300 Supercharger+Brenspeed 560R upgrade / Exedy Mach 500 Stage 3 Clutch / Exedy lightweight flywheel / SR Performance braided stainless clutch Line / Afco Dual Fan Heat Exchanger upgrade / JLT Catch Can / Axle Exchange one piece aluminum DS / Silly grin on my face every time I turn the key.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010 Thread Starter
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SPARK PLUG CHANGER'S BEWARE MORE TO COME CAR IS STILL WITH THE DEALER. COSTING 2600.00:kooky:MISFIRE TURNED OUT TO BE THE EXAUST VALAVE TRAIN AS METION BY STLWAGON.I AM NOW LOOKING AT THE CAM BUT MAY NOT BE ABLE TO CHANGE THE VALAVE SPRINGS.COMP CAMS 127-100 SUGGESTED, ANY THOUGHTS:?::?: OR A JLT CAI AND PROGRAM.I THINK EITHER ONE WILL GIVE ME 20HP:?: CAMS $1000.= 20HP JLT INTAKE + TUNE = 20HP:?:
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