Doing a cam swap - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010 Thread Starter
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Doing a cam swap

I plan to swap my cams with a set of Dertoit Rocker Cams. Where can I get the timing chain wedge and spring compressor? How much do they cost? About hoe long does it take give or take? They don't require springs or phase limiters. I know that I can get more from cams that require springs; I just don't want to mess with the springs on this motor I'm looking more for sound and some power increase. I have a different project that's geared for all out power.


Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010
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I did not use the tools and it took me about 2.5 hours. If you were more local I would give you a hand

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Branman View Post
I did not use the tools and it took me about 2.5 hours. If you were more local I would give you a hand
did you do the brenspeed cams? if so, how do you like them?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010
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If you get the tools from Ford they're about $200 for the kit.

1965 Mustang Coupe
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010
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This guy will rent you the tools to do it. You can get away without the chain wedge if you remove the front cover but thats a PITA. The spring compressor is a must.

Do not try to install the cam with out first removing the correct cam followers, actually you shouldn't try to remove the cam either. The online service manual is very detailed and will walk you through a cam install. Some people will say that they did it with out removing the followers but your asking for big trouble. Here is why.

With out the correct followers removed the cam will be loaded by some of the valve springs. When you install the new cam the cam bearing caps will have to compress those springs when your drawing the bolts down. The bolts will be pulled past their torque limit doing this and the bearing cap will be stressed and can break. There is at least a couple different threads where guys have broken a cam bearing cap trying to do it this way. There are also a couple where guys didn't get the cap properly seated because of the valve spring load and then junked the cam and head a few hundred miles later when the cap or bolts failed.

"You can't fix stupid"

Tuned by PowerHouse411
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010 Thread Starter
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Sounds like I need to really take my time and color in the lines then.

Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010 Thread Starter
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How much do shops usually charge to do the cam swap? Looks like a big headache for little gain.

Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-13-2010
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Does anyone have a really indepth walk through on the Cam Swap? I'm also going to be doing the Valve Springs and Retainers. From what I've read these Mod motors arn't as easy to work on. I'm just worried about doing something wrong.
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