New Hood Question 2006 Mustang GT - Heat Extractors - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Shelby Gt 350 member
S197 Member
 
sqidd's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: South Eastern
Posts: 9,239
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by redruder View Post
I see makes sense, so instead of cutting through the air like a cannon ball you streamline it a bit more like a cruise missile.
There is not much in common with a cruise missile and the front end of a S197. The S197 front end has more in common with my garage door!:hihi:

You are on the right track though. With every car a lot of air goes through it (radiator/coolers) opposed to around it. The trick is to manage that air correctly. In practice you want your inlets (grills) as small as possible and still big enough to get the job done and have no air entering the car. Unfortunately the S197ís scoop up a ton of air with the leading edge of the hood and that air goes over the top of the core support which in turn creates a lot of lift and drag. Sealing that off makes a huge improvement. Once the incoming air has gone through the grills you want it to only go through a cooler (rad, intercooler, heat exchanger, etc). Any air that is not going through a cooler is creating lift and drag. Once the air has gone through the cooler(s) you want to get it out of the engine compartment ASAP. The more you get out the less lift and drag you will have and it also has the added benefit of reducing engine bay temps on most applications. Itís easier to exhaust the air out of the top of the hood than the bottom of the car because the air moving under the car is going faster than the air going over the top.


Waiting on 2019 GT500

2012 GT Vert Brembo - Stock-ish

2012 F-150 FX4 EcoBoost 4x4 406rwhp/522rwtq. The most powerful EB F-150 on the planet?

2007 GT-TSR/Stops/Turns/Custom Everything/3.4L Whipple Crusher/1000hp SOLD
sqidd is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
MACH I Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
redruder's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Oahu
Posts: 2,557
 
Shouldn't the air moving under and over the car in theory create a vaccuum? I was considering a cowl style hood, moor for lowspeed heat removal. The whole heat rises thinking, more to help intake heatsoak than concern over the rad. The cruise missile thought was geared toward the GT40, the S197s are more like a brick with wheels. The only reason I'm even looking at hoods is that mine is doing the dreaded paint flaking thing and it's starting to spread.


Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
redruder is offline  
Shelby Gt 350 member
S197 Member
 
sqidd's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: South Eastern
Posts: 9,239
           
A cowl induction hood is supposed to take air in from the windshield area into the engine compartment. The air wonít go the opposite direction (despite heat rising) unless the car is not moving. Only under certain controlled circumstances do cowl induction hoods actually ďinductĒ air and in those cases that air should be used to feed a carb/TB that is sealed to the cowl opening. They have almost zero efficiency in regards to cooling the engine bay and are counterproductive because they (if working) add more air to the engine compartment which is the exact opposite of what you want to do.

Itís too bad because they look super cool.

Waiting on 2019 GT500

2012 GT Vert Brembo - Stock-ish

2012 F-150 FX4 EcoBoost 4x4 406rwhp/522rwtq. The most powerful EB F-150 on the planet?

2007 GT-TSR/Stops/Turns/Custom Everything/3.4L Whipple Crusher/1000hp SOLD
sqidd is offline  
 
MACH I Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
redruder's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Oahu
Posts: 2,557
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sqidd View Post

Itís too bad because they look super cool.
My thoughts exactly. I don't think the latest cowl induction hood could bring air in if it was parked with a leaf blow pointed at it. The opening are too small. That's why I was thing it is more for extraction than induction. They are not like the ones that we used to run on the old iron. I remember fabbing up sheet metal and weather strip to seal it to the hood.

Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
redruder is offline  
MACH I Member
S197 Member
 
Ragnar's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Burbank
Posts: 2,698
 
Like everyone else said above, ram air is pretty much ineffective. But it might be considered a source of cold air. If directed over your air filter as mine is (California Dreamin Hood) I might be getting a small cold air benefit. But might and small are the key words. I bought the hood for looks and it was an expensive undertaking. Hood and paint cost about $1,500. Staying with your stock aluminum hood and going with a stick on hood scoop would be a hell of a lot cheaper and still have a nice cosmetic effect.

One other thing about fiberglass hoods. It is unlikely you will be able to use hood struts with them. I had hood struts on my stock hood with no issue. When I replaced it with my fiberglass hood the struts bowed the hood when closed. I was afraid of cracking the hood so I took them off. A friend of mine had the same issue with a Steeds cowl induction hood. I've seen this on several other fiberglass hoods as well. Maybe someone makes a strut that will work well with fiberglasshoods. But the majority of them out there do not.

You may also need to consider hood pins if you change your hood. It will depend on how fast you go. But in general the fiberglass hoods float more than stock hoods. This can make you rather nervous and opt for the hood pins. I don't like the looks of them so I just keep my car underr 100...most of the time. :hihi:

06 GT Premium, Windveil Blue, Auto, IUP
Mods: Midwest Auto Gear Engine Plenum Cover, Sequential Taillights, Demolet Tunable CAI & SCT Tune, CDC Quarter Window Louvers, Billett Aluminum Interior Items, 8" Shorty Antenna, Powder Coated Valve Covers, Braided Hoses, Flowmaster AT, California Dreamin' Hood, CDC Classic Chin Spoiler, Honeycomb Rear Decklid Blackout Panel, 35% Window Tints, SHR Lower Grill Inserts
Ragnar is offline  
Rookie
 
pngcoolbiz's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 46
 
I have an 04 with a Cervini part #154 Cobra R hood (fiberglass). I raced one summer with it on the car and it cracked all over the place I have a 3" cowl hood from Mr. Body Kit on my 91 (which is way faster) and no problems. I am ordering a new hood for the 04 from Mr. Body Kit and hopefully this one stays intact!

"Better to remain silent and be thought stupid than to speak and remove all doubt."
pngcoolbiz is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Tags
extractors , heat , hood

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1