New Hood Question 2006 Mustang GT - Heat Extractors - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010 Thread Starter
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New Hood Question 2006 Mustang GT - Heat Extractors

Hello. So I recently bought a 2006 GT with a Cervini Body Kit and I would like to get a new hood for it. I am in no way a "expert" when it comes to cars, so I thought I would ask some of the experts on here for some help. I have been looking at the Trufiber GTS-4 hood. I love the look and style, but my concern is the heat extractors allowing water into the engine. Does anyone have this hood and experience any problems? Or does anyone have any suggestions on a specific ram air hood that would work well. Any comments or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010
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Ram air hoods dont work at all. Theyre purely for looks.
The vents on the back of that hood, though, will. You may have noticed your hood shaking if/when you go faster. The vents will help with that.

Theres a few out there, do a google search for heat extractor hood. I personally like the look of the gt500 (non KR or anything) hood, but that requires doing the whole gt500 front end to fit.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010
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I have the GTS ram air hood and have had no problems with it. You get a lot of ram air effect with them but they look good and the extractors let a lot of heat out. Just be very careful with the prep work for paint. Im not sure what they use for mold release when they make them but we had a lot of trouble gettin the paint to stick. It looked great till we got it out in the sun and then it developed mumps! Just be sure it is cleaned very well and I have read a lot of people saying leave them out in the sun before painting to bring everything to the surface.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010
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The heat extractors do allow some water in. I dont drive mine alot but I have drove it in the rain with no issues. I have been thinking about getting the coil covers, thats about all the rain gets on.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOUG87GN View Post
You get a lot of ram air effect with them surface.
No you don't.

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I was thinking that a hood with the air intake scoop on the leading edge of the hood would get some positive airflow to the filter. However that area does get much more air than most people think. I was thinking about a Mach 1 hood, but don't know if I want the cleaning issues that would come with front openings.

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RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redruder View Post
I was thinking that a hood with the air intake scoop on the leading edge of the hood would get some positive airflow .
It doesn’t. A boundary layer builds up in front of the car which is in effect “dead air”. The “Super Snake” style hoods front openings are sitting right in the middle of nearly dead air.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010
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Heat extractors (vents) any further back than where the OEM GT500 vents are largely ineffective. Anything past the half way point of the hood (front to back) becomes very inefficient because of the high and low pressure zones which are very dramatic because of the flat front end of the car. In addition to that not a lot of air will move over the top of the motor and out a vent because it is not the path of least resistance. The most efficient spot for vents is behind the radiator/in front of the motor. There are a ton of “GT/sedan” class race cars out there that run their vents there and it’s for a reason. The K-Pax Volvo, Corvette factory team, Aston Martin team, FR500GT, etc, etc, etc all have vents placed to evacuate the air moving through the coolers. Keep in mind the cars in the pics below have the motors set very far back in the chassis. The Aston Martin is technically a “mid engine” car it is so far back (behind the front wheel centerline). And the Volvo has a transverse mounted engine so is very far back in the chassis.

The FR500GT is obviously the most relevant example of how it can be executed best. It has a lot of vent area in front of the motor and behind the radiator and even has a “bucket” system that seals the air coming through the radiator to the vents in the hood (see pics). As far as S197 chassis goes this is the best way to manage airflow through the engine compartment. If it wasn’t they would have done it a different way.

The GT500 hoods work fantastic. I converted over to one and it made a huge difference over 150mph. It’s a pretty big move though because you need the whole front end. It can be done for about $1500 though. Another good option is the Cervini’s GT500 “knock off” hood for the GT front end. It looks like @$$ in their ads but I saw one in person and it was beautiful. I was very surprised. The only issue with going with a glass hood is that they weigh a lot more than the stock one (the stock one is aluminum), they are a PITA to get painted right ($$$$), and expensive to ship. I went the GT500 route because it wasn’t a lot more money than getting a glass hood, everything ends up lighter and fits like OEM. There are also other advantages like the splitter and I am using the foglight holes for cooling. One for my CAI which is right behind the foglight hole and the other side has the power steering and oil coolers.

Happy hunting
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010 Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replys everyone! So it seems like getting the ram air hood is only for appearance? I don't race my car, so I don't really need a racing type hood, I'm just looking for a fancy upgrade I guess. I talked to someone who said the heat extractor openings are not a problem when it rains as long as your are driving the car. However, if it's sitting out and it starts to rain you may have a problem. He suggested covers for the openings, but I don't know if that is something you can buy or not. So I guess I am probably going to look for a different style. If anyone has pictures of a fancy hood on their car, I would love to see them to help give me an idea of what I want. Also, I have looked at the Cervini and Trufiber sights, but if you know of any other quality sights that sell hoods, I would be interested in checking them out as well. Thanks Again for all the helpful input!
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I think the only problem you may run into is water laying around the coils, could cause them to short out.
New Hood Question 2006 Mustang GT - Heat Extractors-car-2.jpg

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deem350 View Post
So it seems like getting the ram air hood is only for appearance?
The only function that the “Ram Air” hoods have is that they will reduce underhood temps just a bit simply because there are holes in the hood. NO ONE makes a true ram air hood for the S197’s. You would either need a Pro Stock style scoop that is about 9-10” off of the hoods surface to get any sort of ram air effect or pull air from the bumper cover somewhere and run hose up to your CAI/Airbox.

Quote:
I talked to someone who said the heat extractor openings are not a problem when it rains as long as your are driving the car. However, if it's sitting out and it starts to rain you may have a problem.
My car sat out in the rain once and the only water that got through dropped right between the motor and rad and the only thing that got wet was my front swaybar. And it was not very wet at all. I have only driven the car in the rain once and I didn't get any water in the engine compartment at all. It was all freeway driving though and it wasn't a downpour. I was running between 70 and 140mph the entire time.

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You could look at a site sponcer Mustang Wheels Rims and Parts at CruizinConcepts.Com
or
www.mrbodykit.com
www.abcexclusive.com/
Car and truck body kits & parts for mx3, s10, SUV, civic, neon, focus, etc.

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RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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I thought that the extractors on the sports cars were for added down force.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by redruder View Post
I thought that the extractors on the sports cars were for added down force.
You are correct-ish. They reduce lift, not crate downforce.

Creating downforce increases drag.

Eliminating lift reduces drag as well as lift.

Waiting on 2019 GT500

2012 GT Vert Brembo - Stock-ish

2012 F-150 FX4 EcoBoost 4x4 406rwhp/522rwtq. The most powerful EB F-150 on the planet?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqidd View Post
You are correct-ish. They reduce lift, not crate downforce.

Creating downforce increases drag.

Eliminating lift reduces drag as well as lift.
I see makes sense, so instead of cutting through the air like a cannon ball you streamline it a bit more like a cruise missile.


Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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