Kenne Bell Intercooler pump not circulating coolant - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2010 Thread Starter
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Kenne Bell Intercooler pump not circulating coolant

After replacing my motor I noticed the intercooler was not circulating coolant.. I saw another thread where guy's talk about the need to prime the pump but the pump has been primed. I can apply 12V to the red and black wire that go directly to the pump, at the relay (disconnected) and it starts circulating water. My issue must be wiring but I can't seem to figure it out or understand how the circuit works (I know, it's a simple relay but I'm getting my butt kicked by it..). I have replaced the relay, no diff.. Thing I can't figure out is why I don't see 12V at the capacitor (U shaped thingy I spliced into the relay). I thought I would see 12V when all connected at the cap if I dug thru the wire and measured to ground but I don't. Does the capacitor work as a switch somehow or is it just for noise?

By the looks of how I wired it initially (could be wrong I guess) and my limited understanding of the circuitit appears to me it should always be on. Fused ring lug on 12V (always on) buss of fuse box spliced to orange wire to relay. Green wire below orange on the relay is spliced to the left capacitor (U shaped thing that is near pully) The red wire direct to pump. Black wire is Y'ed, one side goes to ground under relay mount and the other goes to motor.. I can't understand how, the way I have it wired, it would work. Possibly I goofed the install or something. Lost my manual. Could use a schmatic.

Does anyone understand the Kenne Bell setup/wiring, how it should be wired and how that capacitor works with the relay?

Any help would be so nice


07, Mustang GTCS, White, Kenne Bell 2.6L blower w/intercooler, JBA Long tubes, 3' pipes, Hi flow cats, Magnaflow, Hurst Shifter, Hot Rod Cams, Manley pistons/rods, 18X10 offset in back, 18X9 front, Chrome deep dish rims, Upper adj control arm, T-Spec adj shocks, sequential blinkers, SCT Big Air MAF, 39lb cobra injectors, slotted brake rotors, bear break pads, GT500 dual fuel pump.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2010
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I'm not farmiliar with your specific setup, but I might be able to help you. Coud you draw up a schematic of your wiring and post it? Please include where the wires are going to the relay, i.e. the relay contacts vs relay coil.

Capacitors act as filters. They block DC current and pass AC current. The cap in your circuit might be to help the motor at start-up, filter noise from the motor, or protect the relay contacts.

-Stangstta

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2010
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Check the wiring the same thing happened to my budys car and the reservoir swole up and almost burst it was because the wires were backwards

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2010
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Dont drive her until you get it working. An intercooler with no flow would probably soak up heat adn cause major heat sink.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010 Thread Starter
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Here's my crappy drawing of how I have it connected. My thoughts are that 12V to relay should be to ingition, (not always on)... I just noticed where pin 30 is on the connector. Think pin 30 and 87 should go to the pump (red into 30 and black 87 ground to pump?)

Not sure but thinking 12V orange fused should be taken from another point on the ignition, not sure how green would get power to function but maybe should go to different pin....

Long day at work, bit frazzeled

I tried to attach my drawing
Attached Images
File Type: bmp Intercooler pump not running.bmp (949.0 KB, 447 views)

07, Mustang GTCS, White, Kenne Bell 2.6L blower w/intercooler, JBA Long tubes, 3' pipes, Hi flow cats, Magnaflow, Hurst Shifter, Hot Rod Cams, Manley pistons/rods, 18X10 offset in back, 18X9 front, Chrome deep dish rims, Upper adj control arm, T-Spec adj shocks, sequential blinkers, SCT Big Air MAF, 39lb cobra injectors, slotted brake rotors, bear break pads, GT500 dual fuel pump.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010 Thread Starter
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updated drawing with pinout

Hi Folks,

Help?? I updated drawing with pinout of how I have it wired.

Been looking all day and can't find the install manual or get hold of Kenne Bell.

If anyone has a KB 2.6L on 2005-2009 I only need to confirm how exactly the relay is wired. or how my wiring is different.
Attached Images
File Type: bmp Intercooler pump not running pins numbered.bmp (949.0 KB, 1446 views)

07, Mustang GTCS, White, Kenne Bell 2.6L blower w/intercooler, JBA Long tubes, 3' pipes, Hi flow cats, Magnaflow, Hurst Shifter, Hot Rod Cams, Manley pistons/rods, 18X10 offset in back, 18X9 front, Chrome deep dish rims, Upper adj control arm, T-Spec adj shocks, sequential blinkers, SCT Big Air MAF, 39lb cobra injectors, slotted brake rotors, bear break pads, GT500 dual fuel pump.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010
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Your wiring does not look correct. Can you post the source file of your schematic so I can modify it for you? I assume you only want the pump to run with the engine on? That is the trigger for the relay?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010 Thread Starter
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Good Morning,

I don't understand what you are asking for... If it's the schematic of how it's supposed to be I would be OK but that is the missing part to my puzzle. I wiried it following, how I interpreted, the Kenne Bell manual which I have lost. I have been searching the web and have made 50+ calls to Kenne Bell to get the schematic, always busy.

You don't mean that diagram I wrote up in MS Paint?

Yes, I want the pump to start and run only while the engine is running. It doesn't look like it is wired to function to me either..

Do you know of a common location to tap into the ignition circuit where a big ring lug can be used? I can wire it anywhere and can solder just can't figure out what Kenne Bell intended, the harness was pre wired, instructions seemed clear at the time...

Thanks for your help

07, Mustang GTCS, White, Kenne Bell 2.6L blower w/intercooler, JBA Long tubes, 3' pipes, Hi flow cats, Magnaflow, Hurst Shifter, Hot Rod Cams, Manley pistons/rods, 18X10 offset in back, 18X9 front, Chrome deep dish rims, Upper adj control arm, T-Spec adj shocks, sequential blinkers, SCT Big Air MAF, 39lb cobra injectors, slotted brake rotors, bear break pads, GT500 dual fuel pump.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010
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There should be pin numbers on the bottom of the relay that we need to match to the color. A relay is used to switch the higher amperage pump +12v on and off. Based on the relay picture it should be:
30 = +12v
87 = Pump +12v
85 and 86 are the coil voltage for the relay, one will be ground, one will be whatever triggers the pump to come on (thermostat, switch etc).
You also then need a pump ground which shouldn't be connected to the relay.

07 GT Vert. Triple Black. Steeda CAI, FRPP GTA's, Roush Styling Bar, tuned by Brenspeed.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010 Thread Starter
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Thanks! That is how it is wired except I have no trigger to 85 which would send 12V to the noise suppressor when the ignition is turned on. Where is a good place to get 12V (ignition) from?

07, Mustang GTCS, White, Kenne Bell 2.6L blower w/intercooler, JBA Long tubes, 3' pipes, Hi flow cats, Magnaflow, Hurst Shifter, Hot Rod Cams, Manley pistons/rods, 18X10 offset in back, 18X9 front, Chrome deep dish rims, Upper adj control arm, T-Spec adj shocks, sequential blinkers, SCT Big Air MAF, 39lb cobra injectors, slotted brake rotors, bear break pads, GT500 dual fuel pump.
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I created a schematic based upon how I would expect it to be wired (attached).

Regarding where to connect the green trigger wire, you can review the power distribution schematics at:

Ford Service Manuals - Wiring Diagrams

Most of the circuits in the fuse box under the hood are "hot at all times". The only one I saw that should be switched is the output of the fuel pump relay. You could try connecting to wire 238, dark green with yellow stripe, or wire 361, red. I'd test these to make sure they are hot in run only (+12 VDC) before splicing into them.

Most of the switched ACC connections are at the SBJ located in the passenger's kick panel. I don't think you want to breach the firewall just to get a wire there.

Regarding the capacitor, I'm not 100% sure where they intended to put it. I assume across the motor to filter noise. The way you had it connected will never work, as the cap only passes AC, and not DC. The pump should work without the capacitor if you want to try it without it connected first.

-Stangstta
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File Type: pdf alexauto8ms_schematic.pdf (13.6 KB, 236 views)
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010 Thread Starter
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Pump not circulating resolved!!

THANKS GUY'S!!

Resolved:kooky:

From your feed back I figured green 85 has to be connected to the ignition to act as the trigger to close the relay. I started looking and found the wire originally connectect to the noise supressor (red) in the harness, all taped up.. I soldered it to the Green wire that goes to pin 85 and heard my pump turn on when I turned the ignition.

I attached a drawing of correct way to wire the Kenne Bell intercooler in a Mustang.

Thank you guy's for your time, I'm so relieved now.
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File Type: bmp Intercooler pump not running pins numbered resolved.bmp (949.0 KB, 1027 views)

07, Mustang GTCS, White, Kenne Bell 2.6L blower w/intercooler, JBA Long tubes, 3' pipes, Hi flow cats, Magnaflow, Hurst Shifter, Hot Rod Cams, Manley pistons/rods, 18X10 offset in back, 18X9 front, Chrome deep dish rims, Upper adj control arm, T-Spec adj shocks, sequential blinkers, SCT Big Air MAF, 39lb cobra injectors, slotted brake rotors, bear break pads, GT500 dual fuel pump.
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You're quite welcome.

I don't think that capacitor is doing much of anything the way you have it connected. It is only filtering the relay coil, which does not produce much noise at all. It's completely isolated from the motor the way you have it connected.

-Stangstta
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