2008 Mustang GT Hurst Shifter Noise - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011
mmckee83
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2008 Mustang GT Hurst Shifter Noise

I have a 2008 Ford Mustang GT in which myself and a friend installed a Hurst Billet Competition Short Throw Shifter. From everything that I read and from what I could see it appeared pretty easy and sure enough it was and there were no issues. I know from seeing many other posts that they are noiser then the stock shifter as the bushings are much harder and the shifter lever is metal. I do not have a problem with any gear selection or any shifting at all but the thing that I notice is that if I hit a larger bump, pot hole or rougher road I hear a srubbing at the time that the car is going over it. For normal driving and regular road bumps it does not make any noise, just if there is a larger enough "jolt" it makes that scrubbing sound at the same time.

Is this something that is normal or is there something wrong?

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011
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Get back under the car. There must be something banging under there.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011
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Thank you for the response. I have to take it to my local ford dealer for its post winter storage service and inspection, I will have to see if they can take a look at it. The other funny thing that I noticed though is that it seems to do it worse when its colder out (like in the fall, as I dont have it on the road during the winter. Thank you Upstate New York).

I was hoping and am hoping that it will be something small, I just am not very mechanically inclined at all.
 
post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011
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The leading billet arm is much beefier than the stock steel. It could be possible you have enough slop in the drivetrain allowing the transmission to "bounce" and hit the transmission tunnel on this arm. The transmission only sits on the cross member and is only bolted to the rear of the engine and the OEM motor mounts allow for a lot of movement. It is easy enough to jack the front end up and take a look.
post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011
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[email protected], if that is the problem, which to me sounds like a very good possibility of the problem, does that mean I would need new motor mounts? or would I have to put the stock shifter back in to fix the problem? or what?

I am sure that these are basic straight forward questions but as I mentioned before unfortunately I do not know anything about mechanical stuff on vehicles and I do not always trust the local garages, especially with this car. Most of the garages where I live are use to working on older "beaters" not higher end sports cars. Any corners that they can cut they will.
post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmckee83 View Post
[email protected], if that is the problem, which to me sounds like a very good possibility of the problem, does that mean I would need new motor mounts? or would I have to put the stock shifter back in to fix the problem? or what?

I am sure that these are basic straight forward questions but as I mentioned before unfortunately I do not know anything about mechanical stuff on vehicles and I do not always trust the local garages, especially with this car. Most of the garages where I live are use to working on older "beaters" not higher end sports cars. Any corners that they can cut they will.
You could certainly get new urethane motor mounts which would reduce the engine movement but I would start with a simple visual inspection. If it is making contact it is going to leave a mark. I am only theorizing with my previous post but based on what you stated it is a logical place to start. Most engines are not centered in the engine bay to start with and it might just need to be moved slightly to one side to give some clearance down stream. All very simple to do yourself.
post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
The leading billet arm is much beefier than the stock steel. It could be possible you have enough slop in the drivetrain allowing the transmission to "bounce" and hit the transmission tunnel on this arm. The transmission only sits on the cross member and is only bolted to the rear of the engine and the OEM motor mounts allow for a lot of movement. It is easy enough to jack the front end up and take a look.
I didn't realize what a long winded run-on sentence I managed to put together there...
post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-20-2011
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I'm having the exact same problem.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012
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JamesLynch,did you ever get it figured out?
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OH my, I'm installing the Hurst 391 5201 billet shifter now. Is there anything I should be careful about?


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Blue Loc Tite is recommended I believe. Keeps things together better, which is where most folks end up getting "noise" later on.
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Quote:
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Blue Loc Tite is recommended I believe. Keeps things together better, which is where most folks end up getting "noise" later on.
I have that set out with the rest of the parts and tools. Worse than noise would be to have it fall off or the stick come off in my hand.

I was wondering about the "srubbing" the OP and another poster hears when going over large bumps. I expect it to feel and sound more old school American muscle than the European (girl) feel of the OEM shifter but not to hit something when the suspension flexes.

It is a tight fit and can only be bolted in one way with no adjustment. The billet is square and a bit larger wile the OEM was round. I was wondering if that could be a problem. Once I start the installation I can't return it.


2009 Mustang GT Deluxe, fake hood scoop, Ford Racing Bullitt cold air intake and tune, Hurst billet competition plus shifter.


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I'd say it's from the "flexing" of the car when different points cross the bump at different times. I don't think it's specific to the Hurst. Keep us posted on the install...
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I have that set out with the rest of the parts and tools. Worse than noise would be to have it fall off or the stick come off in my hand.
Mine almost fell out from under the car!
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Here are som solid tips
Don't over torque the two nuts for the the rear most U mount that Boyle the shifter to the body
Drop the tranny by loosening the tranny mount nuts down about 2 inches. This is for good access to the forward linkage bolt
Get some lithium spray grease and shoot it in the center bearing of the shifter
When mounting the shifter arm use at least one or maybe to of the rubber isolators
Before you screw on the shift knob, wrap the shifter shaft threads with Teflon tape, this will help with any noise from under the car resonating up to the shift ball.


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