Engine build mustang - Ford Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-23-2012 Thread Starter
PONY Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
GT_2006's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: manama
Posts: 258
 
Engine build mustang

I'm thinking of building the engine in the long term and I have a couple of questions about it:

I know that I need to Change the connecting rods and pistons do I need to bore anything or do I just replace the parts I'm not going to do it myself but I just want to get an idea, can we use the car as DD with the forged internals?

Thanks

GT_2006 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-23-2012
Apprentice
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
CBMAMF5's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Sauk Rapids
Posts: 244
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT_2006 View Post
I'm thinking of building the engine in the long term and I have a couple of questions about it:

I know that I need to Change the connecting rods and pistons do I need to bore anything or do I just replace the parts I'm not going to do it myself but I just want to get an idea, can we use the car as DD with the forged internals?

Thanks
The condition of your bore's will determine if they can just rehone or if they need to bore to the next oversize. If you are not going to exceed roughly 450RWHP you are fine with the stock internals. Guys running on the street only making more and holding it together.

The single most important thing is getting a proper tune. Forged or not, if tune is off, you will pop the motor. Using it as a daily driver with good tune is no problem at all. Good luck with your build man!


2008 5.0
CBMAMF5 is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-23-2012
PONY Member
 
psycho bob's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Peyton
Posts: 429
 
if you use your stock crank and swap out the pistons/rods you'll be good to nearly 700rwhp. of course as said you'll want a good tune.

you may or may not need to bore the cylinders, but more cubes does generally equate to more power.

just remember once you commit to upping the boost you have to realize you're going to be spending a significant amount more than just the engine build itself.

Heads, Cams, Edelbrock Eforce, 4.10 & true-trac, TR6060 trans, DSS driveshaft, Full BMR suspension, tokico d-specs, eibach pro kit springs
psycho bob is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-23-2012 Thread Starter
PONY Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
GT_2006's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: manama
Posts: 258
 
I'm going to start with a 450 whp for now but in the long term i'm think of building the engine for 500+ whp but I'm not sure if I can find a good shop here that I can trust to work on my engine

Thanks for the information
GT_2006 is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-23-2012 Thread Starter
PONY Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
GT_2006's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: manama
Posts: 258
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho bob View Post
if you use your stock crank and swap out the pistons/rods you'll be good to nearly 700rwhp. of course as said you'll want a good tune.

you may or may not need to bore the cylinders, but more cubes does generally equate to more power.

just remember once you commit to upping the boost you have to realize you're going to be spending a significant amount more than just the engine build itself.
What do you mean by a good tune are there safety numbers that I can't exceed for example air fuel ration?
If I build the engine I need to upgrade the cooling system, fuel system I'm I missing anything?
GT_2006 is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-24-2012
PONY Member
 
stang06girl's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Simi Valley
Posts: 379
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CBMAMF5 View Post
The condition of your bore's will determine if they can just rehone or if they need to bore to the next oversize. If you are not going to exceed roughly 450RWHP you are fine with the stock internals. Guys running on the street only making more and holding it together.

The single most important thing is getting a proper tune. Forged or not, if tune is off, you will pop the motor. Using it as a daily driver with good tune is no problem at all. Good luck with your build man!
Why build a motor if you are'nt going to at least put forged rods in? Sounds like a complete waste of time, effort, and money otherwise.
stang06girl is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-24-2012
Apprentice
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
CBMAMF5's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Sauk Rapids
Posts: 244
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stang06girl View Post
Why build a motor if you are'nt going to at least put forged rods in? Sounds like a complete waste of time, effort, and money otherwise.
I took "build motor" as generic for increasing power. You can up the horsepower, but not necessarily need to put forged rods and pistons in, at least right away.

2008 5.0
CBMAMF5 is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-24-2012
PONY Member
 
psycho bob's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Peyton
Posts: 429
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT_2006 View Post
What do you mean by a good tune are there safety numbers that I can't exceed for example air fuel ration?
If I build the engine I need to upgrade the cooling system, fuel system I'm I missing anything?
by a good tune i mean that there are tuners everywhere, but these 3V's aren't the same as tuning any ole pushrod 302. if you're not sure about the tuners in your area and how much experience they have with these cars in particular then i would suggest just using the dyno itself and having someone with a great reputation adjusting the paremeters. this way takes a little longer and you'll have to be emailing back and forth, but people have blown up their stock engine and built engines because the tuner didn't know these cars.

as for the a/f reading it's pretty much agreed upon that you want to be at or very close to 11.8:1 at wot.

technically just because you forge your engine doesn't mean you'll need more cooling or fuel. it's when you want to up the boost that you'll need those things. most kit's will come with the fuel & cooling mods that are needed to use the sc'er w/ the stock shortblock. if you need more details about fuel or cooling just ask.

Heads, Cams, Edelbrock Eforce, 4.10 & true-trac, TR6060 trans, DSS driveshaft, Full BMR suspension, tokico d-specs, eibach pro kit springs
psycho bob is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012
PONY Member
 
stang06girl's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Simi Valley
Posts: 379
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CBMAMF5 View Post
I took "build motor" as generic for increasing power. You can up the horsepower, but not necessarily need to put forged rods and pistons in, at least right away.
That way you can spend another 12 hours pulling the motor, another 20 hours tearing it down, another 20 hours putting it back together, and another 12 hours installing it again, another 300.00 for gaskets, another 60.00 in antifreeze, another 60.00 for oil, and another 300.00 to replace all the (use once) torque to yeild main bolts, main side bolts, rod bolts, head bolts, and cam bolts (unless you bought ARP bolts the first time) when you decide you want to add a blower or turbo that will put you above the 450 mark.

On the other hand .... if you spent 800.00 on a set of forged rods, (forged pistons not really required at less than 600 hp) you wouldn't have to rebuild it a second time if you wanted to up the power to more than 450 hp.

If you are going for less than 450 hp, just buy a used motor out of a junkyard for a $1000.00.
stang06girl is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1