Recommendation on Brake kit? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-24-2012 Thread Starter
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Recommendation on Brake kit?

Does anyone have a recommendation on some brake kits that do not cost thousands of dollars? Even if this entails front brakes only, i cant justify spending the same amount of money I would spend on a supercharger on some brakes.

This is for a 2006 Mustang with v6 brakes.


2006 V6 Pony Package Premium -Mods: 61mm Powerhouse Turbo and Intercooler, Evolution Dyno Tune(Jon Lund), Steeda Performance Shorty Headers.
Current Numbers:
350 rwhp/420 torque @ 8.3 psi (low boost)
415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
New Set Up: 4.6 3v With Manual Trans, Bolt Ons
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-24-2012
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What do you want to do with the car?


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2012 Mustang GT - Lava Red w/ Lava Red Interior, Manual, 3.73 Axle, Brembo Brake Pkg., Roush Exhaust, Boss 302 nose, Barton Industries Shifter and Bracket, FR Brake Cooling Kit, AirRaid CAI, Bama 91 Tune, Hawk 9012 F/HP+ R Pads, Vorshlag brakelines, Motul 660 RBF, Steeda Comp Springs, Steeda Rear UCA, Whiteline Sway Bars and Watt's Link, Yokohama AD08R tires.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-24-2012 Thread Starter
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Honestly at the moment it is simply a DD that I romp on from time to time but when I go back to maryland it will probably see some track time. I Have been nervous with my brakes ever since i swapped engines to the 4.6 and got some heavier rims, the stopping power just doesn't seem adequate if I really needed it. I don't need full on auto-cross type brakes but probably bigger rotor/caliper combination.

2006 V6 Pony Package Premium -Mods: 61mm Powerhouse Turbo and Intercooler, Evolution Dyno Tune(Jon Lund), Steeda Performance Shorty Headers.
Current Numbers:
350 rwhp/420 torque @ 8.3 psi (low boost)
415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
New Set Up: 4.6 3v With Manual Trans, Bolt Ons
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-25-2012
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So this was a V-6 Stang originally? Have you done any research on the difference between the V6 and GT brake systems? I would be willing to bet their maybe a difference in rotor diameters etc....if not, then on the cheap and to help with braking effectivness, look at rotor upgrades-possibly cross drilled for better cooling and upgraded pads to EBC's should net better braking.....I have stock rotors on 05 gt, HP pads and that damn thing in DD will nearly stop on a dime....if you hit the track then you need better rotor cooling...drilled rotors/good pads will help. If you get real serious, then higher end rotors are in order, possible upgrade to calipers and ducting to direct air into the brake area to enhance cooling.

the last thing you want is to overheat the calipers and boil the brake fluid, lose your brakes and go through the hassle of bleeding them to get braking back again....just my two cents!

There is no such thing as to much horespower..!!

Last edited by TWShovel; 08-25-2012 at 02:48 PM. Reason: more info
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-25-2012
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you also mention stronger rims....what do you mean? have you changed the size of tires/rims? For example, in my GT, I dumped the factory tires/rims. I bought 17 x 9" American 5 spoke black rims and went to a lower profile/wider tire-run BFG AS in 275/45 x17. These tires are an 1" less in diamter than stock.

Had to recalibrate the ECM for accurate speedo....of greater importance though is the effect the shorter tires have on other areas.

For example, this combo takes my stock 3:55 axle ratio to a effective, calculated 3:76 ratio. Really helps on the acceleration aspect of things! on flat ground I normally make 2nd gear starts

Another benefit is in braking. The smaller diameter combo increases brake torque, thus increasing braking effectiveness.

These are items you can definitely feel and contribute to better acceleration and braking.

Conversely if the tire/rim combo you run increases tire diameter 1", the effect is exactly the opposite. Depnding on the combo, you may see the effective, corrected axle ratio drop to 3:21 and less effective braking due to decreased brake torque/force.

These are mathmatical facts you gotta consider if tire diameter is changed from stock....for me personally I like the benefits of the shorter combo and barely affects fuel economy....

There is no such thing as to much horespower..!!

Last edited by TWShovel; 08-25-2012 at 02:45 PM. Reason: edit
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-25-2012
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Just don't buy Baer brake rotors they rust and have no warranty on rust.

2007 Shelby GT black with silver stripes, 4.10 rear end, kooks LT headers and catted x-pipe,SSS terminator mufflers, LCA, adj UCA,adj panhard bar, 18" cobra r chrome rims, Baer Decelerotors front and rear with chrome braided brake lines.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012
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I did a swap on my 08 gt to some 2011 gt (non brembo) rotors.. Took me up from 12.4" to 13.2" rotors.

IIRC the V6's start with 11.5" rotors up front so you could do the same and go up quite a bit. All it takes is some OEM takeoff rotors, and a pair of brackets.

I did a write up. You can read about it here:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...2-verdict.html

Combine it with some braided brake lines and some good pads (Hawk HPS for street use) and you're all set.

-HD
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerdown View Post
I did a swap on my 08 gt to some 2011 gt (non brembo) rotors.. Took me up from 12.4" to 13.2" rotors.

IIRC the V6's start with 11.5" rotors up front so you could do the same and go up quite a bit. All it takes is some OEM takeoff rotors, and a pair of brackets.

I did a write up. You can read about it here:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...2-verdict.html

Combine it with some braided brake lines and some good pads (Hawk HPS for street use) and you're all set.

-HD

Roush is selling take off 2011+ front/rear rotors, calipers, brackets and pads for $249 shipped.

You can't beat that.


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2010 Grabber Blue Mustang GT, Forged 4.6L Roush TVS and other stuff ... The modding shall never end ...

Wife's car ... 2014 Sterling Gray Premium GT 401A, stock for now ..
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drive_55_not View Post
Roush is selling take off 2011+ front/rear rotors, calipers, brackets and pads for $249 shipped.

You can't beat that.
Where do you see that deal?

...granted maybe I'm just a day late and they all sold but I checked both the "brakes" and "OEM take off" sections on their site and didn't see anything. Not sure if there is some other website I should be checking out for that type of deal.

2005 Windveil Blue GT (MT)
93H Bama tune, JLT Series 3 CAI, FRPP CMDPs, Pype bomb super system, 3.73 gears, Steeda shift bushings, Saleen short shift block
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chump View Post
Just don't buy Baer brake rotors they rust and have no warranty on rust.

All iron brake rotors rust and none of them have any rust warranty. Some have a bit of zinc on the edges but the surface still rusts.

Nobody I know of makes solid stainless brake rotors for cars and if they did they would cost double or triple or more. One company I know of makes aluminum rotors with stainless steel and ceramic/carbon pucks .

Alex
2010 GTRR in 5.0 Magazine [http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/m5lp-1212-2010-ford-mustang-gt-rr-total-fabrication/viewall.html]

2015 White SC, PP, etc....

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Originally Posted by 908ssp View Post
All iron brake rotors rust and none of them have any rust warranty. Some have a bit of zinc on the edges but the surface still rusts.

Nobody I know of makes solid stainless brake rotors for cars and if they did they would cost double or triple or more. One company I know of makes aluminum rotors with stainless steel and ceramic/carbon pucks .
That's actually pretty cool. Have any idea on pricing or why they don't offer 14" rotors?
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I wrote them today asking for info on 14" rotors. They said the rotors should last the life of the car. Aluminum is terrific at conducting heat so that should help them stay cooler and heat more evenly which helps prevent warpage.

Alex
2010 GTRR in 5.0 Magazine [http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/m5lp-1212-2010-ford-mustang-gt-rr-total-fabrication/viewall.html]

2015 White SC, PP, etc....

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Quote:
Originally Posted by themangeraaad View Post
Where do you see that deal?

...granted maybe I'm just a day late and they all sold but I checked both the "brakes" and "OEM take off" sections on their site and didn't see anything. Not sure if there is some other website I should be checking out for that type of deal.

The Roush fleabay has them. The rotors did have a little rust on them but the calipers and pads look brand new.

FORD MUSTANG OEM- FRONT (13.2")AND REAR (12.4") ROTORS/CALIPERS/ BRAKE SET | eBay




/

2010 Grabber Blue Mustang GT, Forged 4.6L Roush TVS and other stuff ... The modding shall never end ...

Wife's car ... 2014 Sterling Gray Premium GT 401A, stock for now ..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 908ssp View Post
All iron brake rotors rust and none of them have any rust warranty. Some have a bit of zinc on the edges but the surface still rusts.

They claim there rotors are zinc coated which means the surface which the pad hits will eventually rub off the zinc coating which I completely understand. However the place i'm having the problem with rust is not where the pad hits the rotor, its on the what they term the hat. See the picture attached.






Nobody I know of makes solid stainless brake rotors for cars and if they did they would cost double or triple or more. One company I know of makes aluminum rotors with stainless steel and ceramic/carbon pucks .

That sounds pretty slick I'll check them out.

2007 Shelby GT black with silver stripes, 4.10 rear end, kooks LT headers and catted x-pipe,SSS terminator mufflers, LCA, adj UCA,adj panhard bar, 18" cobra r chrome rims, Baer Decelerotors front and rear with chrome braided brake lines.
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