Supercharged 2007 Mustang GT Throwing 7 Different Fault Codes - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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dly
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Originally Posted by pkehne View Post
Hello everyone I am a newbee Mustang owner. I was hoping that someone may be able to help me with some issues I am having (with my car). I am a farily new Mustang owner (about 4 months). I purchased this car with about 24,000 original miles (28,000 now). The previous owner had a 550 Whipple supercharger kit installed. The install was performed by Ford Racing of Marietta, which I have the reciepts for proof. Other than a Magnaflow exhaust, I am not aware of any other mods.

Now that you have a little background on the vehicle, I'll get the the problem. The car ran GREAT for the first couple of months. Very strong and a blast to drive. Eventually, the check engine light came on. I had the codes read at an Autozone and 4 codes popped up indicating that it was O2 sensors or cats. I assumed it was not cats considering the low mileage. Stupidly, I procrastinated on looking into this, as the car seemed to be running fine and I was heading to the beach for vacation in a week or so. Before leaving for the vacation I changed the oil. My fiance and I then headed on the 500 mile trip to the beach in the Mustang. When we got there I noticed the car began to idle roughly at stop lights. Other than at idle, it was still running great. We made it the 500 miles back home afterwards, but the problem definitely began to worsen and it even cut out at stop light. I have since garaged it until I can figure out what is going on. I also discovered that the ProCal handheld tuner that came with the car could read fault codes (forgive me, I'm new). So, I read the codes myself and there are now 7 different codes:

P0104 MAF Circuit Intermittent
P0171 System Too Lean - Bank #1
P0174 System Too Lean - Bank #2
P0308 Misfire Cylinder #8
P0316 Misfire Detected On Startup
P2195 O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean - Bank #1
P2197 O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean - Bank #2

I have little to no knowledge of modified Mustangs, so I am in quite a bind. I was just wandering if anyone recognized these issues since most places want $100 just to even look at the car and I am going to be very picky as to who I let touch the car. It is my new baby after all. I don't want to throw away the $100 if it turns out to be a dirty sensor or something.

Well, I believe that is it in a nutshell. Any feedback will be MUCH appreciated. Thanks to everyone in advance.

Things I would check just because you can.

Clean the MAF senser (if you unplug it and the car idles better than the MAF is going bad)
Pull a couple of plugs and read them.
Replace your fuel filter
Check for any loose wires or plugs, melted though wires etc.
Clean your TB, I have a Saleen SC'er not sure about a Whipple.
Lots of other little things you can check too.

Hope this helps alittle

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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-09-2012 Thread Starter
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Knowing what kind of tune is on the car is crucial. For example, was it tuned for 91 fuel and somehow got a tank of 87? I once went home to visit my family in Missouri and no 93 available in my home town. I was stupid and put a few dollars of 91 in the car, just to get me to the next town. You guessed it. My motor with a tune for 93 did not like the 91 at all and by the end of the day I was $800 in the hole with a new set of injectors, new plugs, shop labor and diagnostic fees. The codes it was throwing were very similar to ones you've listed above. The only difference was that I was already running an off road x-pipe with no cats and I had a misfire on #7 cylinder instead of #8.

I can promise that none of these guys are making a dyno suggestion to be crappy to you, but Ford's pro cal tool is very specific in what it does. If so much as the air intake was changed then it will not account for it.

Step 1: Are you sure about the fuel? (Fiance didn't pump 87 while you went to take a pee?)
Step 2: Are all of your sensor connections and wire harnesses in good shape (nothing accidentally rubbed or burned through) and are they all plugged in?
Step 3: Are there any vacuum leaks in the intake or PCV system?
Step 4: Are one or both of your cats blown out? If you were running rich and had fuel build up in the cats then the exhaust can act like a blow torch, melt the cats and clog your exhaust causing all kinds of hell.
step 5: Do some research on line and in your area to find a shop that does Mustangs or a Ford Racing/ SVT dealership that has a tech who know his ass from applebutter when working around a supercharger.

Your description sounds rough. I've been there and it sucks. I definately feel for you. Be careful not to spend a thousand dollars replacing perfectly good parts before you consult a professional. It can happen before you know it. Haynes manual is a good tool, but it's written for people who already know their way around a car and it won't begin to touch a supercharger issue. FYI. A Haynes manual will help you change your brake pads, but will be pretty useless for this issue as you've described it.

Best of luck, seriously. Let us know how it turns out.
Thank you for your reply jklofti... It is bitter-sweet however. The grade of fuel we have been feeding it sounds like it is most likely the culprit. Take it easy on me, but like I said I am new to having a supercharged car. I was smart enough to ask the guy I purchased the car from what grade of fuel it required. However, I was stupid enough to believe him when he told me 87 was just fine. It sounds like I may learn my lesson the hard way on this one. I am definitely going to have a professional that I trust take a look at it and see what kind of damage I am looking at.

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the 87 octane fuel could be it; but that would most likely cause pinging, not so much the rough idle, lean codes and other things . . . but definitely get that out of there and get the highest octane you can get at the normal gas station (race fuel not required) . . . if you have a full tank of 87, I'd go so far as to find a shop that can syphon it out of there, you don't want to risk running it through the car

In addition to the gas, I'd start simple like they said earlier -- clean and check the MAF sensor. If that is messed up, I think it could cause all of those other codes.

| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-12-2012 Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for your feedback. I am dropping it off today to have someone take a look at it. I will let everyone know what the verdict is.
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Good luck, man. May the "horse" be with you.....I know, I know it wasn't funny. I was just trying to lighten the mood. :kooky:

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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012 Thread Starter
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So, apparently there is a leak in the gasket between the supercharger and the intake. Part of the gasket is actually starting to come out of the side. I have my money on improper torquing of the bolts during installation as the cause of the failure of the gasket seal. The leak is right on the driver's side towards the #8 cylinder... this explains the #8 misfire along with the lean codes.

Time to go express my extreme displeasure with the company that installed the supercharger. It turns out that I am 3 freakin months past the end of the warranty time limit and 32,000 miles under the warranty mileage limit. Wish me luck!

Oh and thanks again for everyone's help in trying to figure this out.
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So....a vacuum leak...hmmmm.

Hopefully its not a compound problem and there wont be a next time but just in case, a $4 can of carb cleaner goes a long way to help find these types of leaks. Keep in mind that carb cleaner contains acetone and can strip paint so use it wisely.

These blowers come off very easily and it is something you can easily do with a decent set of hand tools! I've had mine on and off more than I care to remember now.

Glad to hear you got it figured out!
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
So....a vacuum leak...hmmmm.

Hopefully its not a compound problem and there wont be a next time but just in case, a $4 can of carb cleaner goes a long way to help find these types of leaks. Keep in mind that carb cleaner contains acetone and can strip paint so use it wisely.

These blowers come off very easily and it is something you can easily do with a decent set of hand tools! I've had mine on and off more than I care to remember now.

Glad to hear you got it figured out!

LOL! Brian 1.....everybody else....zeeeero..including me. Good job
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+1 on checking things over.

Unless you have a pile of cash to take the car to the shop then a few things and basic skills go a LONG way when owning a modded car like this.

Good job coming to the forums too.. Usually pics and very descriptive detail can make a big difference obtaining help. Most things on these cars are really simple to repair and will save you BIG money DIY. You sound like an educated person. I am sure you can make it thu most things if you wanted to. Really helps that your machine is not a DD too.

BTW... ditch the 87. The price difference since is minimal compared to a shortblock. How much do you really fill it up anyway?

Mind if I ask what they charged you for the rapair? My guess is $300. Could have been done for what $50 in parts?

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-14-2012 Thread Starter
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+1 on checking things over.

Unless you have a pile of cash to take the car to the shop then a few things and basic skills go a LONG way when owning a modded car like this.

Good job coming to the forums too.. Usually pics and very descriptive detail can make a big difference obtaining help. Most things on these cars are really simple to repair and will save you BIG money DIY. You sound like an educated person. I am sure you can make it thu most things if you wanted to. Really helps that your machine is not a DD too.

BTW... ditch the 87. The price difference since is minimal compared to a shortblock. How much do you really fill it up anyway?

Mind if I ask what they charged you for the rapair? My guess is $300. Could have been done for what $50 in parts?
I am definitely ditching the 87 immediately. I actually haven't had the repair done yet, but right now it looks like it will be in the $500-$600 range, however I am in the process of trying to get Ford Racing to provide some sort of compensation for the shotty install. If they won't help me, I am still thinking of doing the repair myself.

Thanks again to everyone... All the vacuum leak guessers win the prize!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkehne View Post
... All the vacuum leak guessers win the prize!
if it's the gasket between the supercharger and the intake manifold, then that is a PRESSURE leak, not a vacuum leak, right?

hmmm, well I guess if you are not in boost then it's a vacuum leak . . . but under boost it's a pressure leak . . . but since you run a S/C for boost then I vote for "pressure leak"

I always thought "vacuum leak" usually referred to the hoses and stuff that have vacuum in them?

I am not arguing, just curious / looking for a learning opportunity . . .

anyway, glad you got it figured out, and hope they fix it without costing you an arm and a leg

| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day
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if it's the gasket between the supercharger and the intake manifold, then that is a PRESSURE leak, not a vacuum leak, right?

hmmm, well I guess if you are not in boost then it's a vacuum leak . . . but under boost it's a pressure leak . . . but since you run a S/C for boost then I vote for "pressure leak"

I always thought "vacuum leak" usually referred to the hoses and stuff that have vacuum in them?

I am not arguing, just curious / looking for a learning opportunity . . .

anyway, glad you got it figured out, and hope they fix it without costing you an arm and a leg
Since vacuum is created by the downward movement of the piston then everything from the piston crown through the manifold and out the intake path will be under vacuum. The OP had low speed/idle problems because of the unmetered air but it ran fine once the motor started making less vacuum/more boost.
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. . . everything from the piston crown through the manifold and out the intake path will be under vacuum. . . . .
. gotcha, thanks .

| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day
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It's a pressure leak not vaccum leak. Brian's wrong and I win.


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Totally joking Brian...


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