S197 Mustang Tech Links - Page 6 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #76 of 99 (permalink) Old 03-31-2008 Thread Starter
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S197 convertible top information

Convertible top information

Attached Files
File Type: pdf Convertible Top System_Bleeding.pdf (8.8 KB, 658 views)
File Type: pdf Convertible_Top_Assembly.pdf (44.6 KB, 592 views)
File Type: pdf Convertible_Top_Assembly__Bows.pdf (8.1 KB, 470 views)
File Type: pdf Convertible_Top_Assembly__Side_Rail.pdf (8.1 KB, 499 views)
File Type: pdf Convertible_Top_Latch.pdf (8.7 KB, 576 views)

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post #77 of 99 (permalink) Old 03-31-2008 Thread Starter
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S197 Camber Adjustment

S197 Camber Adjustment

Attached Files
File Type: pdf camber adjust.pdf (22.7 KB, 772 views)

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S197 Mustang GT mid-pipe removal procedures

S197 Mustang GT mid-pipe removal procedures
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Exhaust intermediate pipe removal and install.pdf (59.0 KB, 779 views)

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Strut and spring assembly, removal, and installation

Strut and spring assembly, removal, and installation
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File Type: pdf Strut and Spring assembly disaassembly and assembly.pdf (60.3 KB, 593 views)
File Type: pdf Strut and spring assembly removal and installation.pdf (181.4 KB, 633 views)

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Smart Junction Box

Smart Junction Box
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File Type: doc Smart Junction Box.doc (335.0 KB, 821 views)
File Type: doc Smart Junction Box2.doc (44.5 KB, 591 views)

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Transmission drain and fill procedures

Transmission drain and fill procedures
Attached Files
File Type: doc Transmission Draining and Filling.doc (49.5 KB, 877 views)

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Timing cover removal/installation procedures

Timing cover removal/installation procedures
Attached Files
File Type: doc Timing Cover Removal.doc (206.5 KB, 1476 views)

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Muffler Installation and Removal

Muffler Installation and Removal
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File Type: pdf Muffler removal and install.pdf (59.9 KB, 702 views)

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post #84 of 99 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008 Thread Starter
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Clutch bleeding procedures.

Bleeding clutch system.
You need a vacuum pump kit.
Then.
1. Make sure all hydraulic lines are correctly seated. Then make sure all bleed screws are tightened to specification. (71 lb-in).
2. Make sure clutch peadel is in the most upward position.
3. Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. fill to max.
4. Using a sutiable bleeder kit and a vacuum pump, install rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure rubber stopper has a tight fit.
5. Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve vacuum. Remove tools.
6. Check the reservoir level and fill to max if needed and install cap.
7. Depress the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or untill clutch pedal is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
8. Reapeat steps 4 to 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal is positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
9. Install reservoir cap.
10. Check clutch pedal reserve. Test clutch for normal operation.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf clutch bleed.pdf (69.3 KB, 3657 views)

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Last edited by stlwagon; 11-12-2008 at 05:52 PM.
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Hi All,

I just bought these pins, and just located this nice illustrated PDF with step by step instructions, and thought I'd share the information.

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/p...ns/057-286.pdf
  1. Open hood and prop up with standard rod. Removed the radiator cover. Didn't remove the grill.
  2. Loosen and remove radiator support bolts (2) on each side.
  3. Install metal brackets underneath radiator support brackets and re-install bolts snug.
  4. Install hood pins into the brackets just snug on both sides, adjusted to medium height, the same on both sides.
  5. Put a dab of peanut butter on the tip of each pin.
  6. Slowly close hood and let tips of pins touch the underside of hood to mark where to drill pilot holes with dabs of peanut butter (This peanut butter idea came from another forum member... can't remember who, but thanks whoever you are!)
  7. Open hood and prop up with standard rod. FULLY COVER ENGINE BAY WITH A SHEET OR TARP TO KEEP METAL FILINGS OUT OF ENGINE BAY. Sharpen your favorite center punch, and indent starter spots where you want the drill bit to start. Drill pilot holes with new, small high-speed 1/8" metal drill bit. Blow away any debris.
  8. Slowly close hood and check small holes for alignment with pins. If they're not spot on, this will help you decide which way to force the next bigger bit to go when you drill the next version of the hole.
  9. Open hood and prop up with standard rod. Redrill holes next with new, slightly bigger bit. I used 5/16" high-speed metal drill bit. Blow away any debris.
  10. Slowly close hood and check medium holes for alignment with pins. If they're not spot on, this will help you decide which way to force the next bigger bit to go when you drill the next version of the hole.
  11. Open hood and prop up with standard rod. Redrill holes next with new full size bit. I used 9/16" high-speed metal drill bit. Blow away any debris.
  12. Slowly close hood and check 9/16" holes for alignment with pins. I had to re-align my final hole opening by drilling from the top of the hood at another angle to accomodate for the hood closing in an arc. I propped the hood up off the pins and latch with a block of wood to do this.
  13. Once the hood holes are good and you can close the hood with the pins installed, align lynch pin holes across car with each other.
  14. Close the hood, slide the hard plastic bushing plate and billet plate over the hood pin, and slide the lynch pin into the hood pin hole. Decide how much more to lower or raise the main pin so that the lynch pin fits snug, open the hood and do so, and repeat until the hood pins are at just the right height to provide a snug lynch pin fit.
  15. Tighten pins to brackets.
  16. Close the hood, slide the hard plastic bushing plate and billet plate over the hood pin, and slide the lynch pin into the hood pin hole.
  17. Drill holes (4) in hood to mount assembly. Use a small new high-speed metal drill bit just smaller than the screw body diameter inside the threads. Blow away any debris.
  18. Attach billet plates using supplied screws. Snugly tighten. Do not over-tighten as it will cause hood damage!
  19. Attach lanyards wherever you want. I'll take a few pictures so you can see where I attached mine and how they look later this afternoon when I get home.
  20. Cut out holes on each side of radiator cover for the hood pins. Again, I'll take a few pictures so you can see where I cut mine and how they look later this afternoon when I get home.
  21. Re-install radiator cover.
  22. Close everything up, insert lynch pins, blow away any debris, clean up.
  23. Go take her for a drive, and get the speed up there... Don't be shy. Enjoy the rock solid hood!!!

2008 GT Automatic, JLTII CAI, SCT X3, Bamachips Tune, 3.55 FRPP Gears & GTAs, CHE UCA Bracket, UCA and LCAs, Koni STR.T Dampers, Shelby Billet/SS Hood Pins, CDC Classic, 18x10/18x9 Anthracite Deep Dish Bullitts, 285-40ZR18/255-45ZR18 Nitto 555s, 3M Dark Non-Metallic Tint

Last edited by stlwagon; 11-26-2008 at 10:12 PM.
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post #86 of 99 (permalink) Old 11-12-2008 Thread Starter
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Transmission Fluid Level Check

Transmission Fluid Level Check
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File Type: doc Transmission Fluid Level Check.doc (119.5 KB, 747 views)

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Thumbs up S197 Mustang GT ATF Fluid Change Procedures

Any way I changed my Auto Trans Fluid the other day

tools needed
jack & 4 jack stands (unless you are ghetto like me, I used 2 sets of ramps, cause I loaned out mine)
T-30 torx bit ( for the fill plug on the drain plug)
7/8 wrench,(for the drain plug), its probably metric but the 7/8 fit good
8mm socket to remove the pan,and the 2 bolts that hold the filter on.
fluid fill adapter (its nothing more than a tapered pipe that is threaded on one end)
here is where you can buy one, Amazon.com: OTC 6604 Ford Transmission Fluid Fill Adapter: Automotive

and a fluid pump of some sort.
here is the one I have https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/g2039.aspx?zo=1667299
cost was 11 bucks
a drain pan of some sort,

and a new filter if you choose to change it , the WIX I bought looks EXACTLY like the OEM one, same stampings, weird huh?

1.raise car, be sure its level




2. remove drain plug, drain fluid



3 remove pan, there will probably be some fluid in it still so use caution., and try not to hurt the gasket, you will be re using it...



4 clean pan, pay attention to the magnet



5 change filter if you are going to





6 re install pan, you can install the fluid fill tool into the center of the drain plug.



7 get your



and your



ready to fill

pump your fluid in, mine took between 4-5 qts.
when you pull the pump hose off the fill adapter,
"allow the fluid to drain when the fluid comes out as a thin stream or a drip the fluid is at the correct level"
that part is per Ford.

oh here is what the trans looks like with the pan and filter removed



here is how to check the fluid level
the drain plug is a small pipe, if you over fill it the excess will run out the pipe...

Last edited by stlwagon; 03-24-2009 at 09:35 AM.
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post #88 of 99 (permalink) Old 05-14-2009 Thread Starter
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Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle

Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle

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post #89 of 99 (permalink) Old 05-23-2009 Thread Starter
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Understanding Exhaust Systems

Understanding Mustang Exhaust

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post #90 of 99 (permalink) Old 08-05-2009 Thread Starter
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2005+ Mustang Fuel Pump Removal & Installation

2005+ Mustang Fuel Pump Removal & Installation

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File Type: pdf Fuel Pump Removal and Installation.pdf (106.7 KB, 616 views)

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