Kenne Bell 2.6 is throwing belts - Page 3 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don_w View Post
Call Adam at S.T. Motorsports... he can make you one. (909) 388-2536. Tell him I sent you.
Thanks, Don. I haven't bent a tensioner yet, but why wait?


2005 Mustang GT with 300 ci 04 Cobra iron block, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS, Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, Dual GT500 fuel pumps, much more...
670 RWHP, 640Tq @ 16 psi & 6400 RPM
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Banging off of the rev limiter at 7000 rpm numerous times and no problems yet---although I have an auto and I heard the manuals are a little rougher on the tensioner/belts if you powershift.

The frankentensioner----not pretty for sure, but it works. Also, (I know you know this 5twenty---but for others) make sure when you adjust the belt tension, that the tensioner is in the middle of the range of motion, giving the tensioner room to move both up and down.

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Paul

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Why? They will probably break, too. For a little more than the cost of two factory tensioners, you could have got one that won't break... the Frankentensioner.

Sorry I have not responded to you guys. I have been working at the track all weekend plus Monday....then slept all day Tuesday.

I was turned on to some guy named Adam @ stperformance and he is supposed to have two tensioners welded up into one, is this the guy you are talking about? Someone gave me his email address but I must have copied it down wrong because it bounces back to me. I have two numbers for him also but one went to a fax and one went to a voicemailbox that was full. Anyone have any contact for Frankenternsioner guy?

I would also like to see a pic of what the mod looks like if you have one you can email me or post. I am curious as to how it works.

I now have three temsioners, 1 slightly bent and two in boxes. I was thinking of putting a new one on with the tabs knocked off and driving sane for a few days and then going to my machine shop that I have access too and combining the other new one and the slightly bent one into a big Ol Frankentensioner of my own. I am guessing what helps with the double tensioner setup is that it will have twice the spring pressure and will obviously be less prone to bend if it bounces off a stop. Does this sound like what the double tensioner needs to acomplish?

thanks for your help

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Yes he does. Here it is

http://www.bggperformance.com/

Thanks for the link, we have emailed back and forth a few times now and I think I am going to go with the 8 rib system with the billet tensioner.

If that doesn't work I am making two new pullies, one for the crank, one for the blower and running a dedicated belt for just the blower. Maybe something coged, or at least 16 ribs

And if that doesn't work I am going to set it up Mad Max style.....with a switch (it's a joke)

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Banging off of the rev limiter at 7000 rpm numerous times and no problems yet---although I have an auto and I heard the manuals are a little rougher on the tensioner/belts if you powershift.

The frankentensioner----not pretty for sure, but it works. Also, (I know you know this 5twenty---but for others) make sure when you adjust the belt tension, that the tensioner is in the middle of the range of motion, giving the tensioner room to move both up and down.
OK, so the Frankentensioner is just stroger than the OEM one correct. It doesn'y look like from the picture that it uses two springs??

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I talked to GI Joe and this is the lowdown from him on the billet setup. I think this will be my ultimate solution.

The adjuster has a lock nut and yes this is the spring assist version....it pushes on 4 ball bearings that then load the spring...so it acts as a manual tensioner under normal load, and when the belt is stretched during acceleration the spring loads the tensioner to keep the belt tight. It can provide right at 6 X times the tension of the stock tensioner. The stock tensioner provides 52 lb ft of torque. At idle it acts as a manual tensioner putting only the tension on the belt and pulleys that you place on it with the manual tensioner adjustment. Its pretty trick.
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Yes, I have the 8-rib set up from GI Joe as well, with the only difference being the tensioner--the billet tensioner is the best solution if you can afford it. It certainly looks better then the frankentensioner---thats for sure!

Paul

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I could be wrong, but weren't there fitment issues with the billet tensioner and the KB?
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I could be wrong, but weren't there fitment issues with the billet tensioner and the KB?
A little problem with where the PCM is mounted on the KB is the problem, but it's no problem for me because mine is mouted about 2 feet from where KB had it:eyepoppin

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A little problem with where the PCM is mounted on the KB is the problem, but it's no problem for me because mine is mouted about 2 feet from where KB had it:eyepoppin
Where is your PCM? I wouldn't mind relocating mine... it's kind of in the way of the tensioner when I swap pulleys.
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Where is your PCM? I wouldn't mind relocating mine... it's kind of in the way of the tensioner when I swap pulleys.
It's very close to where the OEM location is. I made a bracket to move the fuse block/ box very close to the fender and it also mounts the PCM right up against the fender and lower so it clears the air tube.

Here are some pics. You can almost see the PCM
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Well, I kind of got the throwing belt problem solved. I put a new OEM tensioner on yesterday and went to NAPA to get a 8 rib belt that I had to cut two ribs off of (Kenne Bell sent me belts...........6 days ago and I still don't have them ). I trimmed the travel limiter off of the new tensioner and went out and got silly with the car. The belt never came off.

For my next step I took the tensioner that I bent and another OEM one and made my own kind of Frakentensioner. I put them together and made some spacers up so they are effectively double stacked. My Frankentensioner has twice as much "arm" mass and what I am guessing will help out a lot my Frankentensioner has twice the spring pressure of the OEM one. I'm going to mount it up later and I will pop a shot off. It looks kind of crappy and HUGE but I think it will solve the problem for the short term.

In the long term I am going to do that 8rib GI Joe deal with the billet tensioner and call it done. It's pricy but it would be nice to know I don't need to worry about it anymore when I crank up the boost. Which may be sooner than later considering I got a spare longblock yesterday to start building up! Woooohooooo, 650RWHP here I come.

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Originally Posted by psfracer View Post
Banging off of the rev limiter at 7000 rpm numerous times and no problems yet---although I have an auto and I heard the manuals are a little rougher on the tensioner/belts if you powershift.

The frankentensioner----not pretty for sure, but it works. Also, (I know you know this 5twenty---but for others) make sure when you adjust the belt tension, that the tensioner is in the middle of the range of motion, giving the tensioner room to move both up and down.
I won't have my GI Joe stuff for a while so I put the OEM tensioner on with the stops knocked off. I went out street racing last night and threw three damn belts! I guess my previous test I wasn't driving the car as hard as when I am racing. It always happend between the 2-3 shift. It's starting to get old for sure.

I finished up my Double Frakentensioner today and I am going to put it on the car Sunday along with another new belt (up to 5 now). I am having a delema with where I want the tensioner to be in it's range. You suggest putting it in the middle, which on the surface makes sense. But I have been driving myself crazy trying to figure out why the car actualy throws belts and come up with a solution based on the problem.

As near as I can tell when you go for a shift the motor revs down faster than the blower and the blower pulley drags the belt along for a second and therefore pulls the tensioner all the way to the stop and then the belt bends the tensioner. On the opposite side of the blower pulley you then have all the slack from the tensioner now being completely extended and the belt flies off one of the pulleys over on the driver’s side of the motor. Of course this is al, speculation. I need a Mythbusters camera under there so I can see what is happening in high speed to be sure.

If my assumptions are correct you would want to have the tensioner as close to fully extended as possible because it will have the most spring pressure on the belt it can offer, it won’t get pulled very far by the blower pulley because it doesn’t have far to go and when it does get pulled by the blower pulley the travel is so low that slack doesn’t form anywhere else in the system and the belt can’t pop off.

Of course this is all based on the assumption that the blower pulley pulls the belt along between shifts because of the inertia of the rotors. I wish I knew for sure.

I also understand you approach, you would think that you would want it in the middle of the range to try and eliminate the tensioner from bouncing off of each end of the travel and therefore upsetting the “Happiness” of the belt.

I just don’t know.

I am going to test it Sunday with my double Frankentensioner with the tensioner set at almost maximum travel to see what happens. Then I am going to put a longer belt on and try it with the tensioner in the middle of its travel. Then I am going to stab myself in the face!

In the long run I would like to run a single 10 or 12 rib belt directly from the blower to the crank and set up its own tensioner. Then leave the rest of the OEM stuff as the car was delivered. I tried doing a google search on something like this and the only thing I came up with is that KB blowers don’t like cog drives for some reason. Anyone know anything about running a dedicated belt system for a KB style blower? Heard of it? Seen it? Anything?

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Originally Posted by don_w View Post
Where is your PCM? I wouldn't mind relocating mine... it's kind of in the way of the tensioner when I swap pulleys.
Hey Don, I see your car is an auto which seems to be easier on the belts. But what do you run for a setup to keep them from flying off?
  • OEM tensioner
  • Frankentensioner?
  • Where is the tensioner in it's travel
  • How many ribs are you running?
Any help would be great, thanks

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Hey Don, I see your car is an auto which seems to be easier on the belts. But what do you run for a setup to keep them from flying off?
  • OEM tensioner
  • Frankentensioner?
  • Where is the tensioner in it's travel
  • How many ribs are you running?
Any help would be great, thanks
I have one of Adam's Frankentensioners, and an 8-rib belt. I also have an extra idler pulley in my system... it is where #7 used to be on the diagram and pics below.





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