Kenne Bell 2.6 is throwing belts - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-30-2007 Thread Starter
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Kenne Bell 2.6 is throwing belts

I for some odd reason finished my car and decided to drive it (what an odd idea ).

Last night I threw my belt. I am using a KB 2.6L intercooled model. I have heard of this happening before, what's the fix? I think at some point someone mentioned that they broke off a tab on the tensioner and then moved the idler pulley a bit. Any help would be great, KB doesn't seem to be able to answer the phone, so you guys are my only source.

thanks
Jason


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post #2 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-30-2007
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Have you considered possibly a GI Joe 8 rib pulley system?


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post #3 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-30-2007 Thread Starter
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I would consider a 12 rib!

I just want to be able to drive my damn car today. I am working for the next week+ and I will not even see my car let alone drive it

I just got off the phone with KP (incredible aint it?) and they told be to knock off the two tabs that limit the travel of the tensioner arm. They are saying that the tensioner slamms off of one of the stops and flings the belt off. It makes sense, there were refernce marks on the tabs from "Hard" contact, so I am guessing they are right. I got my BFH and a long shock adjusting drift (suspension guy thing) and whacked those little bastards right off I hope that works for now. I want to run the car tonight down the 1/4 a few times and it would be nice to not chuck belts off of it every five seconds.

I am going to put the biggest rib/belt system on the planet on that thing when I find where to get one..........so who had that big rib kit again? Gotta link?

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post #4 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-30-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqidd View Post
I would consider a 12 rib!

I just want to be able to drive my damn car today. I am working for the next week+ and I will not even see my car let alone drive it

I just got off the phone with KP (incredible aint it?) and they told be to knock off the two tabs that limit the travel of the tensioner arm. They are saying that the tensioner slamms off of one of the stops and flings the belt off. It makes sense, there were refernce marks on the tabs from "Hard" contact, so I am guessing they are right. I got my BFH and a long shock adjusting drift (suspension guy thing) and whacked those little bastards right off I hope that works for now. I want to run the car tonight down the 1/4 a few times and it would be nice to not chuck belts off of it every five seconds.

I am going to put the biggest rib/belt system on the planet on that thing when I find where to get one..........so who had that big rib kit again? Gotta link?

thanks
jason
Sounds like a good temporary solution... As for GI Joe, you'd probably need to go over to modularfords.com and pm him.

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post #5 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-30-2007
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arent his pulley setups for Saleens?

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post #6 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-30-2007
 
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I feel that the alternator pulley may be the suspect. My reasoning is that the alt. pulley is a clutch type and designed to operate in one direction only. I speculate that due to the additional drag imposed by the KB and any slip realted to this, particularely during high RPM and shifting, it jerks the belt and causes it to slip off or even break.
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post #7 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-30-2007 Thread Starter
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I feel that the alternator pulley may be the suspect. My reasoning is that the alt. pulley is a clutch type and designed to operate in one direction only. I speculate that due to the additional drag imposed by the KB and any slip realted to this, particularely during high RPM and shifting, it jerks the belt and causes it to slip off or even break.

Hmmmmm, now that is good thinking.

I have the ability to machine just about anything. What do you think about me making a alternator pulley with a big "shoulder" on the ouside edge to in effect keep the belt on the car?

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post #8 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-30-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricesmoker View Post
arent his pulley setups for Saleens?
I think he offers different setups including some for CF-type superchargers.

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post #9 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-30-2007
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never seen the setup- but still got a question: if the tensioner is actually moving that far from the belt slapping around, wouldnt adding more belt contact pull even harder on the tensioner due to increased traction? just wondering if a tensioner travel limiter might be an option- to still allow the belt to slip say when you powershift into second and the RPM drops so suddenly the blower acts as a flywheel- better to slip the belt than get belt pull so hard the crank or blower snout fails...just seems a 'stop' could allow slipping with just slightly loose fit instead of a few inches if the tensioner really tries to deflect hard...just curious...

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Tensioner

You must check the tensioner first to see if it is bent,it probably is as when it hits the stop tabs this causes the tensioner arm to bend outwards(towards the rad) look at the belt position on the tensioner,you will find it one or two ribs off the pulley near the back(closest to the engine). Replace tensioner(order 2 keep a new one in the car along with 3 new belts.Now grind off the tabs on the new tensioner with a dremmel tool not a mash hammer & mason chisell.Also check & see if the tensioner is in the middle of its travel distance(probably not).You will need to move or replace a idler pulley to make the travel distance of the tensioner centered.GI Joe's are reichard tensioners,they will not work easily on are KB blowers as we would have to move the PCM.Atom @ ST Motorsports has a Franken tensioner for our set up.Trust me i have gone through 4 tensioners,3 belts,one dent in my hood from the underside of the belt whipping off.Your car is a manual trans correct??The new idler pulley has to be made larger i think,but not sure.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqidd View Post
I for some odd reason finished my car and decided to drive it (what an odd idea ).

Last night I threw my belt. I am using a KB 2.6L intercooled model. I have heard of this happening before, what's the fix? I think at some point someone mentioned that they broke off a tab on the tensioner and then moved the idler pulley a bit. Any help would be great, KB doesn't seem to be able to answer the phone, so you guys are my only source.

thanks
Jason

I came across this. Read under "Pulley", though it is for the 2004 models but might be of some help

http://www.sctflash.com/vehicle_show_profile.php?VID=1

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqidd View Post
Hmmmmm, now that is good thinking.

I have the ability to machine just about anything. What do you think about me making a alternator pulley with a big "shoulder" on the ouside edge to in effect keep the belt on the car?
While a guided shoulder is always good, I believe the problem is the one way clutch. Since the clutch is designed for the belt to move one way, when the belt starts to slip it is actually going backwards and it 'jerks' the belt and the tensioner causing failure.

Acquireing a new alt pulley should work. The Saleen blower doesn't have this problem because the alternator is turned around, it gets a new pulley in the kit.
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post #13 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-31-2007 Thread Starter
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Acquireing a new alt pulley should work. The Saleen blower doesn't have this problem because the alternator is turned around, it gets a new pulley in the kit.
Ok, I am dumb this morning. I don't understand this Can you explain?

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post #14 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-31-2007 Thread Starter
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You must check the tensioner first to see if it is bent,it probably is as when it hits the stop tabs this causes the tensioner arm to bend outwards(towards the rad) look at the belt position on the tensioner,you will find it one or two ribs off the pulley near the back(closest to the engine). Replace tensioner(order 2 keep a new one in the car along with 3 new belts.Now grind off the tabs on the new tensioner with a dremmel tool not a mash hammer & mason chisell.Also check & see if the tensioner is in the middle of its travel distance(probably not).You will need to move or replace a idler pulley to make the travel distance of the tensioner centered.GI Joe's are reichard tensioners,they will not work easily on are KB blowers as we would have to move the PCM.Atom @ ST Motorsports has a Franken tensioner for our set up.Trust me i have gone through 4 tensioners,3 belts,one dent in my hood from the underside of the belt whipping off.Your car is a manual trans correct??The new idler pulley has to be made larger i think,but not sure.
Great, thats exactly what I wanted to hear I will get out in the shop right now and check to see what is going down

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post #15 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-31-2007 Thread Starter
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.Also check & see if the tensioner is in the middle of its travel distance(probably not).You will need to move or replace a idler pulley to make the travel distance of the tensioner centered

I can of course speculate as to why it needs to be centered, but you seem to have a complete understanding of this entire setup. Why do I want it in the middle?


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