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2006 Mustang GT... Rear Upper Control Arm Install help

32K views 73 replies 14 participants last post by  Stanger78 
#1 ·
I need some help on installing the UCA. We tried to remove the tank but we rounded the bolts. So now we are thinking about taking off the shocks and sway bar in order to drop the rear end down a little out of the way. Trying to do this without removing the gas tank. BTW they are CHE arms.:headscratch:
 
#2 ·
This is the same problem I had. CHE recommends you remove the gas tank to get the arm and brace out. This is unnecessary. See if you can slip a wrench or breaker bar on the UCA bolt that has the arm attached to the brace. It will slip out, then you can remove the other bolt and complete the swap. Keep that axle supported if/when you remove the arm and shock bolts. Removing the swaybar will give you more room to work with as well.

Good luck!
 
#3 ·
thanks, we just completed the UCA install, without removing the sway bars or the gas tank straps. It took some work, we are the kings of UCA's, haha....

it all went smooth, were are doing the LCA now, then going for our test drive!
I will post pics when were are done
 
#8 ·
we used the t-50 and about a foot of extentions. we rounded it out almost entirely, before giving up on the gas tank drop.

we then just removed the stock UCA while turning the bracket slightly to free the bolt holding it to the back of the bracket. (opposite of the girdle).

We didnt use any of the replacement bolts, but all of the of the nuts needed to be replaced because of the rubber type seal that they run, that stretch to the bolts. Im going to bring back the bolts when the ford dealer opens.

thanks for the helps, we are in the process of uploading pics of the before and after and the burnout testdrive! it was the best ever.... next mod, Tires
 
#10 ·
we used jack stands, 4 of them, plus a floor jack.
 
#12 ·
I here that!

its do-able with jackstands, if you have the right tools, and a few set of hands. the hardest part was figuring out what to do. we were either going to drop to rear suspension, or figure out some way of pulling the bracket out. then it hit me to try switch the UCA without doing anything to either, and it worked perfectly.
 

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#16 ·
I here that!

its do-able with jackstands, if you have the right tools, and a few set of hands. the hardest part was figuring out what to do. we were either going to drop to rear suspension, or figure out some way of pulling the bracket out. then it hit me to try switch the UCA without doing anything to either, and it worked perfectly.
Imagine doing it by yourself and actually lowering the gas tank that was almost full. That was a real pain.

I may email CHE about their instructions. They are a bit misleading IMO.

Great job on the UCA. :bigthumbsup
 
#13 ·
the nice end result......!
 

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#15 ·
stick! If my tires weren't bad enough before that, they definitely need replacing now. I burned off about 500 miles... oh yeah!
 
#20 ·
How come the back seat has to be removed? Is that to change the UCA bracket or hanger? :headscratch: Does it help do burnouts too? :scratchchin
Yes if you are changing the mount which is a stamped steel piece. The after market pieces are a lot stronger but not necessary for just street fun. If you planning on a lot of track time then I would change it.
 
#21 ·
well in our case, one of the bolts was trapped by the gas tank, so even though we were not removing the bracket we had to completely unbolt it, so that we could move the bracket to an able to get the bolt free. once we did that it was simple. under the seat is the bolt for the top of the rear UCA bracket. seats remove very easily and only weigh 10 pounds.

It was very simple, I laughed cause I thought it looked complicated.

as far as burnouts, I would say that yes it helps, because there is virtually no more wheel hop, so now instead of shaking the whole car, it just spun the tires!
 
#22 ·
Ok, so after driving around for about an hour in my mustang, i was noticing some clunking when I shift.

My friend who helped with the install said most cars do that with this kit. Is this true, and something I must get use to, or is there a way to adjust the clunking noise from normal shifts?

when we torqued the LCA, we had put jackstands under the axle, and put load on it. Pretty much due to the fact the it is almost impossible to get a torque wrench under the car when it sits on the ground.
 
#25 ·
Ok, so after driving around for about an hour in my mustang, i was noticing some clunking when I shift.

My friend who helped with the install said most cars do that with this kit. Is this true, and something I must get use to, or is there a way to adjust the clunking noise from normal shifts?

when we torqued the LCA, we had put jackstands under the axle, and put load on it. Pretty much due to the fact the it is almost impossible to get a torque wrench under the car when it sits on the ground.
Are you sure you've got the UCA jam nut tightened down properly?
 
#23 ·
You may have to replace the bolts/flag nuts. They are one-time use, but many people have gotten away with it. I replaced mine and about 98% of the clunking is gone. I suspect you are getting clunks when you get on it. That is happening to me right now. Before, I was getting clunks if I went over any kind of bump in the road.

Hope that helps.
 
#24 ·
im actually only getting clunking when I shift gears.... only when moving, if I push in the clutch and keep it in nuetral and shift from 2-3, 3-4, it clunks.... I'm nut sure what it is! I have a replacement flag bolt, but didn't use it, because all of the bolts looked fine, the nuts all needed to be replaced, because of the rubber sealant they have on the ends, that stretch once a bolt goes through them!
 
#26 ·
which nut is that? there are like 5 nuts total for the UCA
 
#28 ·
would the jam nut effect noise during shifting, even though i am not releasing the clutch?
 
#32 ·
yes, i also hear it on some rough bumps.... It also makes the noise if I release the clutch to fast and the cars weight shifts quickly. kinda sounds like a popping/clunk. its a new noise that i never heard before this.
 
#34 ·
i got poly/poly. I cant figure it out.... my friend said he had the same issue on his camaro when he did the UCA/LCA install. I somehow don't think that it should sound like this though!
 
#36 ·
yea, just the outside, not the inside of the bushing... we lubed the part that would be touched by other parts of metal, no by bolts.
 
#38 ·
hmm, no we didnt do that. the mount to the girdle?
 
#39 ·
but if we greased the UCA bushing, wouldn't the grease transfer to the mount? - refering to the piece closest to the rear seats, away from the girdle connection.
 
#40 ·
heres a pic of the bushing...
 

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