07 GT next mod help..... - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016 Thread Starter
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07 GT next mod help.....

Good morning all!
I am in need of a little advice going forward, I have an 07 GT with the following mods. Airaid CAI, bama tune, pypes H-pipe, magnaflow exhaust, 3.73 gears, MGW short throw shifter. So I want to go for fun, fast, daily driver; I am going to go forced induction later on but for now natural aspiration. So my question is what is a good next step? I'm thinking FRPP intake manifold and throttle body, or was thinking something more aggressive with cams or cylinder heads? Eventually I'll do both but what is good bang for the buck? OPINIONS PLEASE!!!!!

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07beachgt View Post
I'm thinking FRPP intake manifold and throttle body
Those would be a waste of money if you're going the FI route later on. Save your money towards upgrading the suspension & brakes first and then add more power.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016
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Originally Posted by 07beachgt View Post
Good morning all!
I am in need of a little advice going forward, I have an 07 GT with the following mods. Airaid CAI, bama tune, pypes H-pipe, magnaflow exhaust, 3.73 gears, MGW short throw shifter. So I want to go for fun, fast, daily driver; I am going to go forced induction later on but for now natural aspiration. So my question is what is a good next step? I'm thinking FRPP intake manifold and throttle body, or was thinking something more aggressive with cams or cylinder heads? Eventually I'll do both but what is good bang for the buck? OPINIONS PLEASE!!!!!
The intake manifold will actually lose power throughout the bulk of the power band without heads, cams, and long tubes. I'd pass considering it's a $600 part and will have to come off with most FI (not centri).

Throttle bodies are a waste of money as far as modifications go for a mildly modded 4.6 3v. We're talking maybe 2-5rwhp for $200-600.

Most N/A cams don't play well with FI and you'll have to go back to stock or FI cams to have proper performance and drivability. Again, a grand in the bucket if you intend to go FI. Wait until you are FI before dropping a grand on cams.

Heads aren't much of a limitation until 600+ rwhp on an FI 4.6 3v, and you won't see much benefit without cams, LTs, and intake while N/A. Look at 3v heads, you're looking at $2000+ for the pair.

If you're serious about FI, look into Department of Boost. You can be throwing down 450rwhp for around 4k with stock-like drivability using GT500 OEM parts.

To better answer your question, you say FI is in the future, so I would add parts that will build towards that while adding performance. An electric water pump and aluminum driveshaft with CV joints would both increase efficiency, power, and work with FI, so you're not throwing your money away. The most important thing is traction, so look into a set of tires and wheels if you're still on the stockers. I plan to throw on a set of 18x10 Forgestar F14s all of the way around with 295/35/18s on all 4 corners. They'll make much more of a difference than you may think. Also, a quality set of LCAs will help you hook up and handle.

Let us know what routes you choose!

Current:
2007 Mustang GT 302 stroker 6060 swap, 3.73 gears, Hidden Hitch Receiver, Barton Short Throw, JBA LTs, Borla Touring Axle Back, Lito tuned SCT X4. BMR SP009, Bilsteins, J&M CC plates, J&M LCAs. 4 Piston Brembos
DOB GT450 with VMP Gen II 2.3 TVS | 13/14 GT500 HE & IWP | GT500 hat & DW340s | FRPP 52lb | CMS Stage 2 Blower Cams | Comp 113 Springs & Retainers | 8 rib conversion | Track Spec GT500 Vents | PTFE Heat Barriers
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016
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The FRPP intake is honestly a waste of money, I'm not even sure how much more power they'd make with a centrifugal.


I read a test Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords did where they tested the FRPP intake on a n/a car with ported heads, cams and presumably charge motion deletes (the article did not say specifically). The intake made 11 more hp and it was all above 4500 RPM, and it lost power below 3000 RPM. If it doesn't make power on a heads & cams car then IMO it's for looks only.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghunt View Post
The FRPP intake is honestly a waste of money, I'm not even sure how much more power they'd make with a centrifugal.


I read a test Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords did where they tested the FRPP intake on a n/a car with ported heads, cams and presumably charge motion deletes (the article did not say specifically). The intake made 11 more hp and it was all above 4500 RPM, and it lost power below 3000 RPM. If it doesn't make power on a heads & cams car then IMO it's for looks only.
The FRPP intake manifold eliminates the CMCV system, so it's pretty much like CMDPs are built in.

Current:
2007 Mustang GT 302 stroker 6060 swap, 3.73 gears, Hidden Hitch Receiver, Barton Short Throw, JBA LTs, Borla Touring Axle Back, Lito tuned SCT X4. BMR SP009, Bilsteins, J&M CC plates, J&M LCAs. 4 Piston Brembos
DOB GT450 with VMP Gen II 2.3 TVS | 13/14 GT500 HE & IWP | GT500 hat & DW340s | FRPP 52lb | CMS Stage 2 Blower Cams | Comp 113 Springs & Retainers | 8 rib conversion | Track Spec GT500 Vents | PTFE Heat Barriers
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016
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What if he(07beachgt)did CMDPs and headers now. I don't know about "bang for the buck" doing them now but wouldn't that be two less mods he'd have to do when he goes F/I?
And I definitely agree with the upgrade traction recommendation.

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Spectra CAI, Comp Cam Detroit Rockers, Kooks headers w/catted H-pipe, Revolution Automotive dyno tuned, FB430 race mufflers, 3.55s, JLT catch can, BMR Lca's and relo brackets. Prothane motor mounts and sway bar bushings.
20% tint, smoked markers and tail lights w/sequentials. Clear front signal covers, series 3 chin spoiler.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandGT View Post
What if he(07beachgt)did CMDPs and headers now. I don't know about "bang for the buck" doing them now but wouldn't that be two less mods he'd have to do when he goes F/I?
It'll be one mod less (headers) if he goes with a Roots supercharger or twin screw, two mods less if he goes centrifugal, and one mod less (CMDPs) if he goes turbos. If he decides to go turbos he could also do underdrive pulleys.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016
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Headers are a great ideal if you plan to supercharge. One problem is your current H pipe will only work with shorty headers, since longtubes make the best power gains, you may need to get a new h or x pipe made for long tubes or do some cutting and welding.

LCAs are a must now or later. Should be on everyone's mod list. Research them well as some are much better for the money than others. I suggest Steeda, Whiteline, or J&M. RTR's stuff looks great and seems to perform, but it seems overpriced (and looks just like Whiteline's stuff). Roush also makes good LCAs. Lots of people like BMR, they certainly have great customer service.

I suggest an Adjustable Panhard bar as well to center that axle. Same list of companies in the same order. A must if you lower your car.

UCA is more necessary if you lower, but when the old goes bad a new one will improve your handling. An adjustable is necessary if you lower or plan to.

LCA relocation brackets a must if lowering - just make sure the LCAs you bought are adjustable...
CMDPs are a great idea even if you later add a supercharger. Will give you a few more ponies and add better throttle response and low end and mid range power.

One-piece driveshaft with CV joints. I would suggest the DriveShaftShop's version as their balancing machine is the best in the industry. (Don't forget AM's forum discount if you have 50 or more posts...)

A brake upgrade would be well worth the coins. Someone on here posted a link to a great brake combo for the $$$. SOrt of a homemade Brembo package using all high quality parts. S197 Mustang 14" Brembo Front Brake Upgrade Kit - Vorshlag LLC You may decide you do not need brakes this good. If so, Hawk pads and centric rotors are hard to best. BrakeMotive and their ceramic pads and slotted rotors are a great deal for the cost.

Hope this helps.

DT

2010 GT Premium / Automatic / RapidSpec 401A Leather Interior / MMD Decklid Panel / MMD Classic Quarter Window Louvers / MMD Black Tail Light Trim / GT500 Splash Guards / GT Valve Caps / FRPP GT500 Brake Cooling Shields / FRPP-SVT GT500 Cooling Fan / Steeda LCAs / Whiteline Front Sway, RTR Rear / Whiteline Adj Panhard / Redline Hood Struts / JLT Oil Separator / JLT Series 3 Cold Air Intake / Pypes O/R X-pipe / Pypes Violators Axelbacks / Steeda UDP / Steeda CMDPlugs / Brenspeed Tune
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlee910 View Post
The FRPP intake manifold eliminates the CMCV system, so it's pretty much like CMDPs are built in.
I know, I was kind of getting at the fact that the FRPP manifold barely gets you double digit power gains beyond CMDP's.

And if you can find someone to sell you some spare charge motion plates, you can make your own for a few bucks at home. I bought some used charge motion plates from a guy for $40, gutted them and plugged the holes with flexsteel (or whatever that stuff is called). Super easy.
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'05 Mustang GT Premium
CMS Stage 1 cams, C&L Racer, Lito tune, Jeg's oil sep, CMDP, SR UDP's, JBA stainless LT's & catted H, Magnaflow resonators, MBRP axle back, BMR springs, Koni STR.T, BMR LCA's & backets, J&M upper & mount, J&M Al panhard, DIY panhard brace, Steeda Tri-Ax, smoked corners, Raxiom Vector tails, Brembos, S550 GT Premium wheels, 2010+ door panels
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07beachgt, I recently did the GT500 Throttle Body and Steeda CMDP. It appeared to give me a nice bump in power in the mid to upper RPM range, and made my throttle response much more linear and predictable. These are good mods along with long tube headers if you are thinking about putting cams in your car. If you are going centrifugal supercharger, I would not purchase a larger throttle body. If you your going to go twin screw I would not do either.
Check out this attachment: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Must...7_Bolt_Ons.htm
You might find it helpful in determining your mods and goals. I personally would not get cams if your thinking of going forced induction, unless you go Ford Hot Rod Cams, because they are the only cams that will work with forced induction and naturally aspirated. Good luck with your build.

Airaid Race CAI and SF3 Tuner with 93 Race Tune; Ford Racing GT500 Throttle Body Kit; Zex Nitrous Kit (100 shot); Steeda Billet Charge Motion Delete Plates; JTL Oil Separator; J&M Pan-Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms and Adjustable Upper Control Arm; BMR Lowering Springs and Relocation Brackets; Strange Shocks and Struts; GT500 Strut Mounts; Motive 3.90 Gears; Mac Long Tube Headers with Pro Chamber Mid-Pipe and Boom Tubes; Pypes Ceramic Cats; O2 Sensor Raiser Non Foulers.
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Quote:
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Mmmm. That looks familiar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MaDDMaNN View Post
I personally would not get cams if your thinking of going forced induction, unless you go Ford Hot Rod Cams, because they are the only cams that will work with forced induction and naturally aspirated.
Even the HR cams aren't the best for forced induction as their narrow 110* LSA increases valve overlap and allows some of the fresh incoming intake charge to go straight out into the exhaust. The CompCams NSR 127200s would be more suitable with their 115.5* LSA.


2006 GT Deluxe - 5MT - 12.50 @ 109.61
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016 Thread Starter
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That's a ton of info guys! Thank you, I said I'm going with FI in the future because I am thinking of going with a motor from MMR and putting a Hellion turbo. So I was just wanting to make some fun power with the stock motor that I have right now; Thanks to MaDDMaNNs article, I like to be able to see numbers.
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Thanks to MaDDMaNNs article, I like to be able to see numbers.
I'm the author of that article. Check out the rest of my site.
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