hood scoop made functional with out getting water on motor when it rains - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016 Thread Starter
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hood scoop made functional with out getting water on motor when it rains

I needed to vent my hood due to the increased under hood temperature that my headers were creating. I looked at hood vents and decided to make my hood scoop functional but was worried about rain making a mess under the hood. I live in a very wet part of Hawaii that rains every day. I removed the hood scoop and drilled out the diamonds in the front of the scoop, and then cut a hole in the hood underneath it. to fix the rain issue, I used a fox body door seal and cut it to fit the hole, and pressed it on with the rubber loop sticking up in the scoop. It works great and no water gets in under the hood and I DRASTICALLY reduced my under hood temperature. I am attaching pictures of what I did.

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'08 GT; JLT-3 CAI; GMS 62mm TB; FRPP Hot Rod Cams; Headers; Excel super coils; Ford Racing intake; BAMA SCT4 programmer; Axle back Exhaust; off road X pipes; 4.10 Gears; TCI street fighter shifter; 275/40/18 rear tires; 1.5" wheel spacers in rear; Glow Shift Gauges in triple pillar pod; underdrive pulleys, 1.5" front end lowered; shift light; racing harnesses on both sides; tower brace; Ford Racing valve covers; JLT oil separator; adjustable panhard bar; Ported/polished heads, many more mods
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016
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Nice job. Also, lots of nice mods there. Did you put a different set of motor mounts one? Otherwise, how did you keep the strut tower brace and add a Cobra Jet intake?


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dt2010gt View Post
Nice job. Also, lots of nice mods there. Did you put a different set of motor mounts one? Otherwise, how did you keep the strut tower brace and add a Cobra Jet intake?
I have the SR tower brace and it barely fit without changing the motor mounts. When I lowered it, I put the adjustable camber plates on it, which had longer bolts than the stock, so I was able to put some spacers under the tower brace to give a little more clearance over the intake.
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'08 GT; JLT-3 CAI; GMS 62mm TB; FRPP Hot Rod Cams; Headers; Excel super coils; Ford Racing intake; BAMA SCT4 programmer; Axle back Exhaust; off road X pipes; 4.10 Gears; TCI street fighter shifter; 275/40/18 rear tires; 1.5" wheel spacers in rear; Glow Shift Gauges in triple pillar pod; underdrive pulleys, 1.5" front end lowered; shift light; racing harnesses on both sides; tower brace; Ford Racing valve covers; JLT oil separator; adjustable panhard bar; Ported/polished heads, many more mods
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016
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Nice work. I always wished my hood scoop was functional. Once day I may muster up the intestinal fortitude to do what you did!
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WindStang View Post
Nice work. I always wished my hood scoop was functional. Once day I may muster up the intestinal fortitude to do what you did!
It was not hard to do. Once you get the notion, what I did on the cutting part was:


Removed the heat reduction liner from under the hood.


Drew the outline of the hood, then covered it with duct tape so that the center of the tape was on the outline. This will prevent the paint from chipping.


Then drew the outline again on the center of the tape, and drilled 3/8" holes in the inside of the corners so that the holes were touching the lines. This would prevent me from cutting past the corners.


Then I used a cut off wheel on a die grinder and traced the lines. I started with a metal blade on a jig saw, but the sheet metal was thinner than I thought and it started to grab the metal.


After the hole was cut, I peeled off the remaining half of the duct tape and painted the inside of the lip to prevent rust.


I replaced the heat reduction pad underneath the hood and then cut it out from the top of the hood through the new hole.


Using a door seal rubber, I cut it to fit around the hole and pressed it on with the rubber loop facing up to prevent water from running down onto the motor.


Then I cut out the center of the diamonds in the front of the scoop with a drimmel tool.


then remounted the hood scoop to the hood and was done.


All this took around an hour and a half to complete.

'08 GT; JLT-3 CAI; GMS 62mm TB; FRPP Hot Rod Cams; Headers; Excel super coils; Ford Racing intake; BAMA SCT4 programmer; Axle back Exhaust; off road X pipes; 4.10 Gears; TCI street fighter shifter; 275/40/18 rear tires; 1.5" wheel spacers in rear; Glow Shift Gauges in triple pillar pod; underdrive pulleys, 1.5" front end lowered; shift light; racing harnesses on both sides; tower brace; Ford Racing valve covers; JLT oil separator; adjustable panhard bar; Ported/polished heads, many more mods
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016
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Sounds like something I would like to do. How big was your cutout? Did you make it round/square or follow some other pattern or make it almost as big as the scoop? Your picture indicates it is smaller - about 4" in diameter or thereabout. The hood is aluminum so painting the cutout is a good idea to prevent corrosion. Hopefully your steel blade didn't contaminate the aluminum too much as this could start galvanic corrosion - like at the hood lip that many Mustang owners face.


Did the door weather striping also hold the heat shield of did it just go onto the metal?
Any more pic's?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WindStang View Post
Sounds like something I would like to do. How big was your cutout? Did you make it round/square or follow some other pattern or make it almost as big as the scoop? Your picture indicates it is smaller - about 4" in diameter or thereabout. The hood is aluminum so painting the cutout is a good idea to prevent corrosion. Hopefully your steel blade didn't contaminate the aluminum too much as this could start galvanic corrosion - like at the hood lip that many Mustang owners face.


Did the door weather striping also hold the heat shield of did it just go onto the metal?
Any more pic's?
The cut out out is rectangle, 6X5 inches That I measured out with a right angle. The weather stripping slipped over the heat shield which worked out great so it does not flap with the air blowing in. I started with a metal blade, but it was trying to grab the metal of the hood, so I immediately went to a cut off wheel on a die grinder. I cleaned up the corners with the cut off wheel as well, so I do not think I have any contamination of the aluminum with the metal blade and titanium drill bit.

'08 GT; JLT-3 CAI; GMS 62mm TB; FRPP Hot Rod Cams; Headers; Excel super coils; Ford Racing intake; BAMA SCT4 programmer; Axle back Exhaust; off road X pipes; 4.10 Gears; TCI street fighter shifter; 275/40/18 rear tires; 1.5" wheel spacers in rear; Glow Shift Gauges in triple pillar pod; underdrive pulleys, 1.5" front end lowered; shift light; racing harnesses on both sides; tower brace; Ford Racing valve covers; JLT oil separator; adjustable panhard bar; Ported/polished heads, many more mods
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-12-2016
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Sounds good and thanks for posting . . . just wondering . . .

Did you look into the fender vents to let the heat out from the headers? I always thought that would be a good way to do it, since the vents would be right downstream from the headers, and they won't let any rain in since they are vertical and on the side of the car.

Holes on the top of the hood worry me for the same reason as you -- I do need to drive my car in the rain.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-12-2016 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JBert View Post
Sounds good and thanks for posting . . . just wondering . . .

Did you look into the fender vents to let the heat out from the headers? I always thought that would be a good way to do it, since the vents would be right downstream from the headers, and they won't let any rain in since they are vertical and on the side of the car.

Holes on the top of the hood worry me for the same reason as you -- I do need to drive my car in the rain.

I did look at fender vents and was going to go that route, then I started thinking, which is dangerous, and decided to figure out how to use the existing hood scoop and not get water on the motor when it rains. With cutting a door weather stripping for a foxbody mustang, it fit and worked great and I have driven in some downpour rainstorms and I have not gotten any water in on the motor. What I did not know is if it would get rid of heat as well as fender vents, but with this set up, the heat is being pushed under the car and I dropped the under hood temperature just over 100 deg. The side vents draws heat out vs. this set up pushing heat out.

The weather stripping that I pressed on to keep the rain out is this one. It creates a lip that forces the water to go around, while letting the air blow in and down over the engine, pushing the hot air under the car while I am driving.

Mustang Weatherstripping - Door to Body (79-93 All) - Free Shipping


If you go to my garage, there are some better pictures of what I did with the hood scoop.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-13-2016 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindStang View Post
Sounds like something I would like to do. How big was your cutout? Did you make it round/square or follow some other pattern or make it almost as big as the scoop? Your picture indicates it is smaller - about 4" in diameter or thereabout. The hood is aluminum so painting the cutout is a good idea to prevent corrosion. Hopefully your steel blade didn't contaminate the aluminum too much as this could start galvanic corrosion - like at the hood lip that many Mustang owners face.


Did the door weather striping also hold the heat shield of did it just go onto the metal?
Any more pic's?
If you go to my garage, there are a few better pictures in there of what I did.
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'08 GT; JLT-3 CAI; GMS 62mm TB; FRPP Hot Rod Cams; Headers; Excel super coils; Ford Racing intake; BAMA SCT4 programmer; Axle back Exhaust; off road X pipes; 4.10 Gears; TCI street fighter shifter; 275/40/18 rear tires; 1.5" wheel spacers in rear; Glow Shift Gauges in triple pillar pod; underdrive pulleys, 1.5" front end lowered; shift light; racing harnesses on both sides; tower brace; Ford Racing valve covers; JLT oil separator; adjustable panhard bar; Ported/polished heads, many more mods
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