Losing anti freeze on a regular basis. - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
Like Tree1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
MACH I Member
5.0L Member
 
Bullitt95's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Cyprus
Posts: 3,413
 
No. The 4.6L 3V intake manifold doesn't have any coolant passages unlike the manifolds on the Windsor pushrod 289/302/351.



2006 GT Deluxe - 5MT - 12.50 @ 109.61
314rwhp 330rwtq with basic bolt-ons
Bullitt95 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
dakotanut's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2018
Location: NEEDVILLE
Posts: 106
 
Came out to antifreeze all over the ground today. Got a light and looked around and it's all under the intake manifold. Is this a hose or something? What's involved taking it off to fix?

dakotanut is offline  
MACH I Member
5.0L Member
 
Bullitt95's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Cyprus
Posts: 3,413
 
That's actually good news for you because it's a fairly easy fix. There's a heater hose that runs along the valley below the intake manifold and that's the source of the coolant leak. Replacing it will cure the problem.
Beechkid likes this.


2006 GT Deluxe - 5MT - 12.50 @ 109.61
314rwhp 330rwtq with basic bolt-ons
Bullitt95 is offline  
 
MACH I Member
5.0L Member
 
Bullitt95's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Cyprus
Posts: 3,413
 
This is the hose you'll need:

https://lmr.com/item/KH406/mustang-h...e-05-10-gt-4-6
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2006-ford-mustang-gt-remove-intake-manifold_1548834786611.jpg
Views:	72
Size:	80.2 KB
ID:	608143  

Last edited by Bullitt95; 01-30-2019 at 11:44 AM.
Bullitt95 is offline  
post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
dakotanut's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2018
Location: NEEDVILLE
Posts: 106
 
That's it? I know the intake has to come off. I dont have the torque sequence for it. Watched a ton of videos on how to do it. Just cant find any on actually replacing the hose. Lol. What do I need to do to remove the bad one. Is there some degree of cutting involved?
dakotanut is offline  
MACH I Member
5.0L Member
 
Bullitt95's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Cyprus
Posts: 3,413
 
Bullitt95 is offline  
post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
dakotanut's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2018
Location: NEEDVILLE
Posts: 106
 
I was reading at Department of Boost under the supercharger installation and saw how they did it. They removed both of those hoses from the firewall and ran them up under the manifold by shortening them. Used 5/8 x 5/8 hose and nipple on one hose and 3/4 x 3/4 hose and nipple on the other one. Seems to me that they will get in the way of the Charge Motion Control plates linkage. It's cheaper and they swear by it. I'll try it first. I'm not gonna shorten the hoses until I'm sure it wont get into the way of the CMCP linkage.
dakotanut is offline  
MACH I Member
5.0L Member
 
Bullitt95's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Cyprus
Posts: 3,413
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotanut View Post
I was reading at Department of Boost under the supercharger installation and saw how they did it. They removed both of those hoses from the firewall and ran them up under the manifold by shortening them. Used 5/8 x 5/8 hose and nipple on one hose and 3/4 x 3/4 hose and nipple on the other one. Seems to me that they will get in the way of the Charge Motion Control Valves linkage. It's cheaper and they swear by it. I'll try it first. I'm not gonna shorten the hoses until I'm sure it wont get into the way of the CMCV linkage.
Not an issue for me 'cause I've deleted my CMCVs.
Bullitt95 is offline  
SHELBY GT 350 Member
4.6L Member
S197 Member
 
JBert's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Central Massachusetts
Posts: 9,114
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotanut View Post
I was reading at Department of Boost under the supercharger installation and saw how they did it. . . . .
hmmmm . . . I am not entirely following all of this, but I'm guessing that DoB changed the hose routing because they needed clearance for the intercooler; otherwise it seems like it would be a lot easier to simply replace the hose the way it is, without changing any of the fittings or routing (unless you are planning supercharger in the future?)

| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day
JBert is online now  
PONY Member
 
night rider's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Location: montreal
Posts: 378
 
Garage
Send a message via AIM to night rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotanut View Post
That's it? I know the intake has to come off. I dont have the torque sequence for it. Watched a ton of videos on how to do it. Just cant find any on actually replacing the hose. Lol. What do I need to do to remove the bad one. Is there some degree of cutting involved?
I've replaced that hose back in 2014 just by removing the alternator to get to it. I unplugged the old one that was leaking at the fitting that hooks up to the crossover and just left it there in the valley and installed the new one. Hasn't leak sens. Easy job.

Bought New 05 Black GT coupe / TR-3650 / C&L Racer c.a.i / 94 custom race tune / Barton shifter / Exedy Mach 500 clutch / Ram billet steel flywheel / Ford racing stainless steel hard clutch line / 2014 GT500 forged aluminum clutch m.c/ Napa premium grade front l.c.a / Baer slotted cross-drilled front rotors / Roush pedal kit / AutoMeter Digital voltmeter / Compustar Pro 2 way Security system.
night rider is offline  
PONY Member
 
night rider's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Location: montreal
Posts: 378
 
Garage
Send a message via AIM to night rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by night rider View Post
I've replaced that hose back in 2014 just by removing the alternator to get to it. I unplugged the old one that was leaking at the fitting that hooks up to the crossover and just left it there in the valley and installed the new one. Hasn't leak sens. Easy job.
I bought the hose from ford so I wouldn't have to cut the quick connect fitting near the firewall. I just had to snap the hose on like the original.

Bought New 05 Black GT coupe / TR-3650 / C&L Racer c.a.i / 94 custom race tune / Barton shifter / Exedy Mach 500 clutch / Ram billet steel flywheel / Ford racing stainless steel hard clutch line / 2014 GT500 forged aluminum clutch m.c/ Napa premium grade front l.c.a / Baer slotted cross-drilled front rotors / Roush pedal kit / AutoMeter Digital voltmeter / Compustar Pro 2 way Security system.

Last edited by night rider; 02-02-2019 at 05:05 AM.
night rider is offline  
post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
dakotanut's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2018
Location: NEEDVILLE
Posts: 106
 
I just didn't want to spend the 89.99 on it. That's kinds ridiculous to me but if I have to I guess I will. Seems like cutting the bad section put and using hose and some clamps would be easiest.
dakotanut is offline  
MACH I Member
5.0L Member
 
Bullitt95's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Cyprus
Posts: 3,413
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotanut View Post
Seems like cutting the bad section put and using hose and some clamps would be easiest.
True but you'd have to use spring clamps like the OEMs do on other hoses. Worm clamps tend to cut into the rubber over time and can loosen, and you wouldn't want to have the PITA job of removing the manifold again to retighten the frickin' things!
Bullitt95 is offline  
PONY Member
 
night rider's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Location: montreal
Posts: 378
 
Garage
Send a message via AIM to night rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotanut View Post
I just didn't want to spend the 89.99 on it. That's kinds ridiculous to me but if I have to I guess I will. Seems like cutting the bad section put and using hose and some clamps would be easiest.
Cheap heater hose and clamps and some cutting or fittings will work ( not the best solution to fix the problem ) you just don't need to take the intake off to replace that one hose. If you want to replace bought heater tube with the originals then you have to remove the intake.

Bought New 05 Black GT coupe / TR-3650 / C&L Racer c.a.i / 94 custom race tune / Barton shifter / Exedy Mach 500 clutch / Ram billet steel flywheel / Ford racing stainless steel hard clutch line / 2014 GT500 forged aluminum clutch m.c/ Napa premium grade front l.c.a / Baer slotted cross-drilled front rotors / Roush pedal kit / AutoMeter Digital voltmeter / Compustar Pro 2 way Security system.
night rider is offline  
post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
dakotanut's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2018
Location: NEEDVILLE
Posts: 106
 
I guess I'm replacing the whole thing then. Oh well. It will be right.

dakotanut is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1