Should I sell my 2010? - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Stang2010: have you replaced the rear stabilizer bar links. If you still have a clunk noise in the rear suspension going over ruts and bumps hese dog-bone looking links are often the culprit.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by stang2010 View Post
. . . At what point do I need to stop pouring money into it and sell it?
when it gets so frustrating that you can't stand it any longer; or when the time comes to get that minivan or SUV (new family member coming?)

a new car will almost never cost less than an existing car, even when the old one needs a lot of maintenance . . . how much maintenance can you do for $500/month? (answer: a lot)

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Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
You might as well keep your 2010 until the wheels fall off 'cause you'd get peanuts for a trade-in. . . . many consider it one of the red-headed stepchildren . . . . .
us parents love our red-headed-step-children just the same, but yeah someone else might think twice about adopting them, LOL . . . my point, same as yours, is: it is probably worth a lot more to keep and drive, than to sell


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The thing about red-headed stepchildren is that whilst the majority don't love them, the minority who do love them twice as much. 😉


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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBert View Post
us parents love our red-headed-step-children just the same, but yeah someone else might think twice about adopting them, LOL
My only thing against the 2010 is the lack of the coyote, as i have decided when the time comes for me to move up from my 2007 GT, i will not go to anything other than such. I have my eye out for a 14 GT, i despise the look of the 15+ but that's just aesthetics.

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^ ^ ^ I went through that thinking when I bought my 2010 . . . . the only reason I didn't buy a 2011 at that time, was that it would have cost about $8-10K more . . . I assume the price difference is much less now so there would be no major reason not to get the later model year with the Coyote engine

but I'd go for a 2012 instead of 2014, because I don't like the catfish face of the 2013-2014 cars . . . but that's just me! :-)

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Quote:
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when it gets so frustrating that you can't stand it any longer; or when the time comes to get that minivan or SUV (new family member coming?)
I'm at the point where I can't stand it anymore. I'm tired of putting money into a depreciating asset. An S197 GT will never rise up in value so I'm getting ready to get rid of mine very soon and get a C5 Z06 probably. New cars have gotten ridiculously expensive so I want a used car where the depreciation has pretty much leveled off.

OP don't go back to the shop that charged you $700 for brakes again...
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Originally Posted by NAs197 View Post
... get a C5 Z06 ...

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I'm tired of putting money into a depreciating asset. An S197 GT will never rise up in value
It probably will once it's 30 years old and achieved classic car status.


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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input, all. I believe we may have gotten a dud, but I have to track down all my maintenance records to see what was done and what was normal.
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You definitely need to stop going to whatever shop charged you all that money to do those suspension and brake jobs. You have been bent over and highway robbed.

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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEZ ST View Post
Stang2010: have you replaced the rear stabilizer bar links. If you still have a clunk noise in the rear suspension going over ruts and bumps hese dog-bone looking links are often the culprit.
I believe that's been done at least once. Still trying to track down every maintenance record.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JBert View Post
when it gets so frustrating that you can't stand it any longer; or when the time comes to get that minivan or SUV (new family member coming?)

a new car will almost never cost less than an existing car, even when the old one needs a lot of maintenance . . . how much maintenance can you do for $500/month? (answer: a lot)

us parents love our red-headed-step-children just the same, but yeah someone else might think twice about adopting them, LOL . . . my point, same as yours, is: it is probably worth a lot more to keep and drive, than to sell
Getting married this year, and kids will likely follow relatively soon thereafter and it's very difficult to put a baby in a carseat in the back of a Mustang...so I'm trying to decide whether to hold on to it until that point, or just replace it now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JBert View Post
^ ^ ^ I went through that thinking when I bought my 2010 . . . . the only reason I didn't buy a 2011 at that time, was that it would have cost about $8-10K more . . . I assume the price difference is much less now so there would be no major reason not to get the later model year with the Coyote engine

but I'd go for a 2012 instead of 2014, because I don't like the catfish face of the 2013-2014 cars . . . but that's just me! :-)
I'm with you, I hate what they did with the front of the refreshed cars. I also didn't care for the black trunk lid, though the taillight change wasn't bad.

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Originally Posted by NAs197 View Post
OP don't go back to the shop that charged you $700 for brakes again...
Did I get ripped off? I went to a dealer and an independent shop. Both told me the back right brake was not doing anything, and the original rotors needed replacing on a 160,000 mile car. The dealer wanted $1400, the independent shop did it for $700. Could I have gotten all the rotors and pads replaced for less?

Quote:
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You definitely need to stop going to whatever shop charged you all that money to do those suspension and brake jobs. You have been bent over and highway robbed.
Three separate dealers and one independent shop all recommended different suspension work.
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I had my entire rear end re-done for 600 ish, Control arms upper and lower, panhard, and then the axle itself, All bearings, Seals, fluids, Posi rebuilt, and an aluminum driveshaft installed(i supplied it).

I provided the driveshaft, and the control arms, so the 600 was labor and bearings and seals and fluids, and the rebuild kit for the posi.

2007 Mustang GT Deluxe Edition 5 Speed - White, Red Shelby Stripes
Roush Intake, 322 LPH Fuel Pump, 3.55 Gears, Dana Spicer Aluminum Driveshaft, Magnaflow Race Series Axle-Backs, 91 Oct. Dyno Tuning
255/50/R17 NITTO 555s, Slotted Rotors
324 RWHP, 328 RWTQ - 9-1-2018

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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBert View Post
^ ^ ^ I went through that thinking when I bought my 2010 . . . . the only reason I didn't buy a 2011 at that time, was that it would have cost about $8-10K more . . . I assume the price difference is much less now so there would be no major reason not to get the later model year with the Coyote engine

but I'd go for a 2012 instead of 2014, because I don't like the catfish face of the 2013-2014 cars . . . but that's just me! :-)
I ended up getting a great deal on a 2012 V6 so I bought it and will probably only keep it for a year or two until we have a baby. But I have to say I was a bit underwhelmed by the new V6 engine. The 2010 seems to have more torque off the line, while the 2012 takes a couple seconds to really kick in. So on a back road they're relatively comparable. Passing on a highway is where the new V6 has a clear advantage.

All that is not to say the new V6 isn't superior, but it hasn't been the revolutionary experience I was expecting.

I'm going to keep the 2010 for now and I'm still trying to get all the maintenance records from the dealers to calculate how much I spent on suspension work and figure out if I got a lemon.

Last edited by stang2010; 05-23-2019 at 04:30 AM.
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The 2011 V6 is not the Coyote engine; the Coyote is the new 5.0 liter V8

But still, the 2011 V6 should be a big improvement over the 2010 V6, it is a whole new engine making over 300 HP while the previous version was something like 225

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Stang: If you are looking at a family down the road, the 2 door is not too infant or car seat friendly when it comes to getting the children in and out. From your post I get the hint you already know that and I assume will be looking for a 4-door at that time.

I usually do not jump brands but the 2015 and up Charger is a good family sedan in the 3.6L version because it gets decent fuel economy, has plenty of room, and decent power for a family car. It would be fantastic if you are able to keep the Mustang because I often see our members swing back around and get another Mustang to replace the one they traded in. In the meantime, I know you will enjoy the 2012. As far as HP, the 3.7 V6 in your 2012 is on par with the 4.6 V8 in earlier Mustang GTs. Not the same torque rating as the V8 but its a good engine. The 4.0L in your previous Mustang has been around forever and had a decent 210 HP but was a little thrashy sounding when pushed. I think what pushed the 4.0 to the trash heap was the termination of the Ford Ranger in 2011 for the domestic market (which recently came back).

I have two children ages 92 and 88 and we recently purchased a Charger Scat Pack. No way can they climb into an SUV or pole vault into a 4x4 extended cab. The sedan allows us to whoosh them around sportingly fast before they start acting up.

And for relaxation we take our Mustang out for leisure rides.

Enjoy your new ride.


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