Brake pads and rotors - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Brake pads and rotors

Hey guys, so i think it's time for me to change the brake pads and rotors, i have no idea when they were last changed since it's a second hand car but i thought i might just do it. The thing is i'm extremely confused what should i buy, i went to Ford and asked them how much they charge and they said 1000 $. There's no way i want to pay that much for unscrewing a few bolts but i would like to find the right parts.

The car is a 2005 V6, as far as i know stock brakes and calipers. So can you guys give me a few examples of what you are using and maybe recommend some brands that i can try to look for ? In general i don't have any special requirements, it's my daily driver that i drive to work and back, no track sessions, just normal street driving.

Also are there some sort of dimensions that matter that i should look for ?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Can't go wrong with stoptech they come painted in black in the center for the rust
part numbers front: 128.61087L and 128.61087R
part numbers rear: 128.61085L and 128.61085R

Paid $129 for both fronts from Autoanything (they price match whatever you find online) i think i picked it up when there was a sale somewhere i forgot. They normally sell for $200 the pair at american muscle but you can get them for 70-80 each online right now
For the rear i picked both for $100 from american muscle when they had a sale.

For the brakes i went with hawk performance ceramic brake pads, does the job.
HB485Z.656 Rear
HB484Z.670 Front

Look up all of those part numbers you'll find cheaper options online than american muscle

Also your rotors will most likely be stuck like my 05 was
Take a look at this just in case


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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If I may provide you with a little fyi......With regards to brake linings in general,



Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings (as many of the oem linings are ceramic). Motorcraft as an example are actually good linings, low dust, etc. and if you go to the Ford parts counter, they have a couple of different grades which the "guys" can help you with.

Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but can bevery dirty depending on the lining selected compared to OEM.

Wagner & Raybestos: a line of products that is 100% marketing and mfg fromvery low quality/inexpensive and/or imported products with the mfg's notproviding any back-up or support on product failures (and I mean real uglyspontaneous, catestropihic failures)


VelveTouch lining- Used for manydecades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60’s (Ipersonally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960’s until brake liningproduction ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Wellman has been thebuilder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30years and VT is now available again.

Bendix- TitaniuMetallic™ II, a newer lining (semi-metallic) and although I havenot personally used this, I have always been impressed with Bendix brakelinings and this particular lining IIMHO would be a low dust, excellent oemupgrade/mild performance type brake lining....this should also be available locally to you.


CarboTech Engineering lining,which I have used for about 30+ years and been very happy on multiple full size(V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient,excellent pedal feel, wears (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles beforereplacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings....but these are a little pricey running about $200 a set and for your car and driving style which I am thinking is gentle, the Bendix would be my 1st choice.

Fyi- braking co-efficient is what identifies the bite ratingof the linings- you want the CE to be no less than that of the OEM.....thiswill drive most e-base distributors & big box store "experts"right out of their mind because they either cannot verify this info or you willfind the spec is less than oem. IMHO, i would look for a CE that is .49 orgreater.

With regards to rotors, if there is a way to turn/resurface your rotors this would be my recommendation assuming they are not warped ….and typically costs around $10-$15 each. If you have to replace, let me say this, be a little carefull about what you buy.Unfortunately, Brembo, Powerslot, Raybestos, Bendix, Hawk etc. are allpurchasing their rotors from the same foundary in China (with the exception ofthe $300 each composite high end units for Ferrari, Porsche, etc)…..and if you see the term "made in USA", well, they can still be forged/casted in china and machined in the US....making them a USA made product....and still subject to warping.



For 30+ years I have run OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel (Powerslot offers these are well)….although they typically run around $20 each more, it is well worth it.


They purchase the highest grade rotors made, laser mic them forquality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the goodones which are now as strong as stainless.For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brakepads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brakelinings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed torelive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency instreet-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisonswere made.


Hope this helps...……...

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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@xavicho3 thanks i will look into it. also that is a good trick with the screws for the rotors

@Beechkid thanks a lot for the in depth guide, i will read it more carefully and will look up the brands you mentioned
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by Beechkid View Post
CarboTech Engineering
For 30+ years I have run OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel (Powerslot offers these are well)….although they typically run around $20 each more, it is well worth it.



What Beechkid said^^^^

IF MY CAR WENT AS FAST AS THE MONEY I SPEND ON IT, I'D WIN EVERY RACE
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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https://brakeperformance.com/ Try this website. They are advertising 30% off this month.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Why not inspect them first to see if they are in fact worn out? If you are not experiencing any vibrations when applying the brakes there is no reason to change the rotors. Raybestos is fine for a driver.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07redstang View Post
Why not inspect them first to see if they are in fact worn out? If you are not experiencing any vibrations when applying the brakes there is no reason to change the rotors. Raybestos is fine for a driver.

or if there is a big lip around the edge due to wear of the rotor, that is another reason to replace the rotors (the lip makes it a pain to change the pads)

| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by Howelldaddy View Post
https://brakeperformance.com/ Try this website. They are advertising 30% off this month.
very good family owned company....I have purchased many specialty parts from them over the years and they are very reliable!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by Beechkid View Post
very good family owned company....I have purchased many specialty parts from them over the years and they are very reliable!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the info. I have never used them, just have seen their website.

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