2008 Air Not Blowing Issue - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019 Thread Starter
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2008 Air Not Blowing Issue

Thanks in advance for the assistance. My A/C has been intermittently working, well, pretty much never, but it has come back on and worked a few times. Besides that LITERALLY nothing happens when I mess with the A/C controls. There is a faint popping sound that I can hear if I keep changing it from like "max a/c" to the other stuff. I have gotten under the dash by popping the glove box down. I can identify that 2 out of the 3 accessible actuators are making sounds. One a little more than the other. So one of them is closer to the door down by the blower motor resistor. The other one is up closer to the radio. It's accessible but in a really rough spot. There's two in that specific area that I know about and its the less visible one that's higher up. I have tried banging on the blower itself as some suggest on the internet, that hasn't worked. I have checked the fuses just in case (wouldn't really make sense as the issue is intermittent but I did it anyway). Do you think the actuators are causing the issue? Could it be something else? Any advice is welcome!

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019
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NO, not the actuators.

People may have told you to bang on heater housing below blower motor....because that might get blower to go on IF the brushes in motor were worn down. Yet probably not the case here.

First I would check the connections underneath the blower motor. One is a two wire connector going directly to the blower motor...pink/white wire and orange/black wire.
Second connector goes to blower motor resistor (in same area as above, under blower motor). 4 wires. yellow/red, orange/black, light green/white, black (ground wire).
You could try wiggling above connectors with the hvac in on position, various fan speeds.


any evidence of water intrusion in the cabin of this vehicle ?

Water intrusion, not common yet can cause problems here:

Must remove passenger side kick panel. In that area of metal you'll find a >very light grey connector with a white clip handle<...to the right of black plastic covered smart junction box. This connector has spaces for 40 wires, within the connector.
Flip the clip handle of connector to get the halves apart. Inspect all connections, looking for corrosion and/or brownish, evidence of burned connections. Clean/repair any problems found here. This is a common area where corrosion, overheating can cause an intermittent connection to blower motor power. (After all blower motor runs off a 30amp fuse, so pulls more amps than other parts of the system)

Call me when you're done...LOL.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019 Thread Starter
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I haven't had any reason to believe water has gotten in. I just checked it out. Wiggled the wires around on different speeds and nothing. All the while the actuator was making sounds. I am a little confused how I should go about this.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019
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Get behind that kick panel and look within that light grey 40 pin connector.

If you've never been in that area, you must remove the plastic door (horizontal) sill panel before you can remove the kick panel...pull up to remove sill panel...then lower edge of kick panel cover is exposed.

To remove plastic kick panel cover...Remove small fuse box cover. With both hands at bottom of square hole exposed by cover...pull towards center of car. Then entire kick panel can be removed by pulling towards rear of car.

Then you'll see that 40 pin connector....you will not see any damage to wires within connector until connector halves are separated. Maybe there's no problem here, yet my experience tells me you may very likely find this is the problem area.

If you find corrosion within wires of this connector, disconnect car's battery before attempting to clean wiring pins.

It's the pink wire with white tracer the most likely culprit...power for blower motor. There are at least four other wires within this connector related to hvac system.

If not the above, and no problem with blower motor itself, no blown fuse (there are six fuses total for hvac system), then problem would be within the entire hvac panel at center of dash.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I will update tomorrow. I do have a question though. I couldn't find anything related to this online. I probably should have brought it up. The 3rd fuse under the hood is the "cooler fan" or something like that. The main fuse to my knowledge. It looked a little burnt compared to the others. Not separated (at least where I could see), just a little different color. I really had no idea because it was one of those circle fuses. Not the traditional ones. So could a burnt ish looking fuse cause problems? I probably should pick one up just in case.

Honestly new to working on cars, at all, so that might be a red flag.

edit: that fuse might go to the radiator fan, probably still want to fix that. Not sure if it was the climate control one or the cooling fan.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Note: Numbering for these fuses is always confusing as the numbers inside of fuse box cover do not agree with the numbers within the service and wiring diagrams books for this vehicle.

If you are reading numbers by underside of fuse box cover:

Number 1...no fuse here.
Number 2...Climate control (hvac system) fuse 30 amp
Number 3...High speed engine cooling fan, low speed also 40 amp
Number 4...Starter relay fuse 30 amp

Not any of the stuff I've told you about where to look has anything to do with Ford factory service manuals electrical troubleshooting tests.
It has to do with hands on experience and having read posts from others with similar problems with this same bodied car.
This body, the s197 body is known for water leaks, and leaks especially within the passenger side footwell of the cabin more so than any other water leaks, though there are others as well. These leaks often result in electrical problems, usually within the interior fuse box, called the SJB or smart junction box. I believe the problem on this car is outside of that box, yet still an electrical issue, possibly related to water intrusion sometime within the life of the car. Certainly I can also be incorrect, just trying to help.
Problem still could be within the heater blower fan motor itself, especially if the car has high mileage or if water has at some point entered the motor of that blower. Usually if the fan resistor goes partially bad, the fan would still work on at least one speed. On these cars it is very easy to remove the resistor to check it out and reasonably easy to remove the blower fan motor/fan assembly if need be.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Okay, so I just happened to be following your advice and was about check under the kick panel like you suggested. I was messing with the settings because it was working this day. I changed the speed from 4 to 3 and it shut off. Put it back on 4 and wiggled the blower motor resistor a bit and it kicked back on. So like you said, that could be an issue? So far it hasn't shut off leaving it on 4. If I take it off 4 I literally have to go to the resistor shake it about and turn it back to 4 for it to work (It's attached so I have to undo some of the bolts). Should I get a new resistor?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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You can usually tell by looking at the resistor, after removing it, if it's partially bad.

tech illustration here of removal of resistor:

Ford Workshop Service & Repair Manuals - fordrepair.info - 2005 Mustang Climate Control Blower motor resistor

Illustrations of similar parts within here:

https://www.google.com/search?biw=16...WlFCcQQ4dUDCAc

Evidently that resistor is now an electronic item...I've never looked at the one on my car. It's sold sometimes with the pigtail (wires going to it), so possibly those wires may get overheated and burned, needing replacement.
That part online various prices...one place it's just over $10...without harness pigtail.

If that's the problem maybe it's the fix. If it were my car with that problem I'd also want to remove the blower motor, check it's fan to see if there's any debris within, which could cause either noise or drag on the motor, when it's running.

https://www.google.com/search?q=blow...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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Last edited by s197gt; 4 Weeks Ago at 08:51 PM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Dang, you are a LIFESAVER. You were right, it was the 40 pin connector under the kick panel area. Took me a second to figure out how to get in there but I finally did. Been really busy so I just got around to it. Heres some photos. So now that we found the issue, how would I go about fixing this?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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It looks like you've had some water intrusion into that connector and it may have shorted out one of the pins. Are you sure you don't have a water leak? Check the splash shield at the back of the front passenger fender.


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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
It looks like you've had some water intrusion into that connector and it may have shorted out one of the pins. Are you sure you don't have a water leak? Check the splash shield at the back of the front passenger fender.
Do you happen to know what that connector is so I can get a new one? Possibly how to replace it? I will definitely look into water intrusion.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Just now saw this from two days ago.

Again: Do not work on this connector without first disconnecting car's battery fully.

Pics are quite blurry, so I can't see what's all the damage.
I do see pin D3, which would be pink/white wire...power to blower motor appears overheated. You may have to remake a connection outside of plastic connector for that color wire.
Since that specific wire appears brownish and overheated, that one may not be caused by water, rather, heater blower pulling too much amperage for some reason...and this connection possibly being the weakest link in the blower wiring overall. You might at some time, remove blower motor, inspect and see if any debris is within squirrel cage (fan). I'm not at all sure why this area is overheated, maybe due to fan resistor if not the blower motor itself ?
If there's corrosion within other wire connections, usually they can be cleaned...may have to take the worst ones outside of connector to clean and put each back, one at a time after cleaning.
Others, or online search might help with what to use to clean up wire ends, like if they are green looking. I don't know if a spray would help, or a dip in some mild chemical ?

Connector would be part of a large wiring harness, doubtful that ford would have a plastic connector replacement. If all else fails, it's to the junk yard you go. I'd bet though that you can make the existing wiring work.
Sometimes hard to figure out how to get wires out of connector without damaging their metal crimped on ends. Takes some kind of tool...see videos within this link:

https://www.google.com/search?q=auto...hrome&ie=UTF-8

Note: I am not a great electrical guy, just a former auto tech, AND I have the factory wiring diagrams book in my hands...actual paper copy.

Do also check the 12 pin, 12 wire connector under the heater blower housing , this is not the 4 wire connector to resistor, and this is not the 2 wire connector to the motor, yet is near them, and goes horizontally below the housing....I think these wires go to the climate control module in the dash, but advise to take apart this 12 wire connector, see if there is any sign of overheating within.

Last edited by s197gt; 2 Weeks Ago at 04:27 PM.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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dude! I have been having a very similer issue.I am reasonably sure its not a bad blower motor or resister and i checked the relay and it was good. I have suspected the problem lies in this panel for a while, and when i pulled the plastics i found a green wire someone had cut and re crimped in two places. i didnt know what the handle thing was so i didnt mess with it until i could get more info. im going to check this connector tonight... let us know if this fixes the problem!
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Just out of curiosity...what other color is on that green wire ?

I believe most all, yet not all, wires to 'climate control module', which are green, have another color on each, as well as the green color...one main color and one tracer color. Also there's light green LG and dark green DG shades.

Identifying better can tell just what that wire goes to. See attached tech illustration of connector wire locations, identifying colors and what each wire is for.
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