2006 Mustang Body Kit Help? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011 Thread Starter
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2006 Mustang Body Kit Help?

hello all, i have done a search for some answers however i get conflicting information. I have a boy racer body kit that i got off of craigslist for 300.00 and i want to get it painted and installed... i have been quoted around 2500... is this to much?? Also if i was to do this on my own would i install the body kit first then have someone blend paint it to match or paint first then install cause everyone says something different... if anyone is near hampton roads VA or norfolk area and can help me i would greatly appreciate it... thank you

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011 Thread Starter
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2006 Mustang Body kit help?

hello all i am in need of help. i have done a search for the answer but keep getting conflicting answers. i purchased a boy racer bodykit off of craigslist for 300... i want to get it painted and installed but i keep getting quoted around 2500 to do it... is this to much??? also if i was to install it myself would i need to get it painted before i install it or install it first then get it blend painted to match? if anyone is around the hampton roads area or lives near Norfolk Va that can help me i would greatly appreciate it ... thanks

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011
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I would reccomend installing it and then having it painted. This way you know that the paint will be blended seamlessly. If you paint then install the paint will not match perfectly and you will most likely scratch something during the install anyway. Paint and body work is expensive due to the amout of labor involved in preping the items to be painted, but call around and ask to see pictures of their work or visit them and look at some of the cars they have in their shop.

Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011
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im not in your area but it can very with installation and everything their quotes are correct...take in that paint cost $$$ (more if metallic)as does preping the kit for installation filler, primer plus cost of labor and installation ...have you ever had an interest in painting if so you could buy a gun and paint and all the prep materials to get it down ive painted 4 of my own vehicles so far...if your worried about money this is the way to go and its a great thing to learn how to do

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011 Thread Starter
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i would love to do it on my own but i dont even know where to begin... like how much paint would i need... what type of primer or how much primer... can the paint gun i use for the primer also be used for paint or are they 2 seperate guns?? how many coats of paint should i use and where do i get that overgloss... there is not metallic involved as i like the stock color of my car(tungsten grey)... the last thing i want to do is **** up the paint job... btw by prepping it what do u mean... the kit is brand new how would i prep it do i still need to sand it down before i put primer on it??
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knightflores View Post
btw by prepping it what do u mean... the kit is brand new how would i prep it do i still need to sand it down before i put primer on it??
There is a mold release agent on the parts and the parts need to be scuffed to ensure the primer and then paint will stick. If it's not preped correctly you will get all kinds of flaws in the paint job. Shooting the paint is actually the easy part. The surface has to be completly clean of any foriegn substances. That's what takes all the time and labor; making sure the parts are 100% preped and no spots were missed.

Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011
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if you do it yourself i recommend painting it off the car and youll want to scuff it like he said useing fine sand paper 300-400 grit or scuff pad( similar to SOS pads) make sure you hit ever spot that paints gna touch and remember to not rush through the whole process or you will not be satisfied ....goto your local auto parts store and get tac cloth and wax and grease remover this will ensure that the part is clean and while your there order your paint use dupont(cheaper) or ppg. give em your paint code they will make it match order a quart and tell them you need everything to get the job done (reducer, clearcoat, activater, paint and mixing instructions) if you have a gun that uses an air compressor that will work make sure to get extra reducer to clean the gun thoroughly before spraying the different mixtures (primer, base coat, clear coat) apply 3 coats of base and 2 coats clear if you have any other questions pm me ill respond quicker that way and remember do not rush yourself! the more time you spend on it the better.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011
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You wash the parts with soap & water first. Use Dawn dishwashing liquid. It breaks down grease. Then you use the 2 rag method with wax & grease remover. You do all this BEFORE you start to sand the part to keep from pushing the contamination into the surface.

You use the wax & grease remover again after sanding and before primer. I use it again after the primer is sanded.

This stops the need for fisheye additive and where anyone has put their greasy ass hands.

2 rag method: Everyone wants to know what that is.

With 2 rags....Saturate one with W&G remover wipe a area no bigger than 3ft X 3ft. Now quickly dry that area BEFORE it dries on it's own. If it does dry on it's own then redo it.

What this does is lift the containments to float them and you pick them up with the dry rag. Flip that dry rag often and change it out also.

15yrs in and around body shops.

"Just Because it's New, Doesn't mean it's worth a Damn!"
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011
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I always paint parts off the car, you can blend it correctly if the parts are on or off.
Painting parts on the car will give you herd to reach spots and the bumpers being so close to the ground will kick dirt up into what your painting.

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Make sure that you get a box of gloves so that oil from your skin doesn't contaminate the surface. They do make a singe stage paint that is near to impossable to screw up; well unless your prep was bad and the occasional run. runs can be fixed fish eye are harder to fix. If I were you I would got to a local juck yard and pick up an old fender to learn on. It will have curves and corners and require plenty of prep that will teach you what does and doesn't work. If you can master it; you will open a whole new world of possabilities with future mods.

Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011 Thread Starter
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ok a few questions... how much do i need to sand initially?? when will i know that the sanding is complete?? why do i need to sand after i prime and how much do i need to sand?? what is a fish eye?? what grit of sand paper do i need?
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I would use 800 grit and you are just needing to scuff the surface initially. You sand after priming to insure a smooth surface free of imperfections. That is whem you would add any needed body filler to make the part perfect. That is the modification they usually refer to in the add discription. Any sandpaper with a grit # under 800 would be too aggressive and would likely leave scratches that would show through the paint. I have seen people use green srubbing pads for the initial scuffing prior to primer. Here is a link to common problems and solutions to them. Paint Problems & Solutions*::*BMC

FISH EYES
Condition:

Small crater-like openings in the finish

Causes:

1. Improper surface cleaning or preparation, usually involving deposits of silicone or wax on the surface of the old topcoat.

2. Effects of an old finish with embedded silicone that is not removable by
solvent wiping.

3. Oil contamination of air lines.

Prevention:

1. Remove all traces of silicone or wax by thoroughly cleaning with a product designed for this purpose.

2. Add fish eye eliminator to the topcoat.

3. Drain and clean the air pressure regulator daily.

Remedy:

After the affected coat has set up, apply a double coat of color containing the recommended amount of fish eye eliminator. In severe cases, the affected area should be sanded down and refinished.

Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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