Supercharger- decision time - Page 3 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #31 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013 Thread Starter
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I figure suspension work will come into play next summer. I have to take it easy on the wife, she let me pull the pin on the blower set up. I have full intention of getting the rest of the car up to snuff so to speak. If not for any other reason than safety. Driveshaft, tires, brakes. etc. I'll see how long the stock rear end will hold up. I'm told the tranny is ok but the rear ends don't like the extra torque. I don't plan to be crazy with the car right off the bat anyway. Over 500HP is alot of power.


2005 HP White GT - Auto - Red Leather Interior -Shaker 1000 - FR-500-S Axle Backs -Roush TVS 2300 Supercharged - GT500 Fuel pumps, GT500 TB, Aeroforce Dual Gauges, Performance Automatic 5r55S with hardened input shaft, PA 3000 Stall Converter , Dynotech one piece aluminum D/S, Roush Brakes,
FR3 Handling Pack and CHE LCA's and relocation brackets.
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The rear end should be fine for a while. Doing burnouts to heat my tires at the track is what finally finished by stock diff off.

Keep us posted about the build.


Justin
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'07 GT auto, Stage 3 Saleen Series VI blower @9.5lbs boost. LTs, MAC Boom Tubes, 1pc Driveshaft, Eaton posi.
Brenspeed Installed and Brenspeed Tuned
Best 1/4 mile is 11.42 @ 119. Driven Daily
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post #33 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013 Thread Starter
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I remember that you said the stock rear didn't hold up well with the added power, that had me a tad concerned. I don't plan on heavy duty racing. Thanks for clearing that up. Car goes in July 18th for install. I'm going to have to relearn how to drive it.

Rob

2005 HP White GT - Auto - Red Leather Interior -Shaker 1000 - FR-500-S Axle Backs -Roush TVS 2300 Supercharged - GT500 Fuel pumps, GT500 TB, Aeroforce Dual Gauges, Performance Automatic 5r55S with hardened input shaft, PA 3000 Stall Converter , Dynotech one piece aluminum D/S, Roush Brakes,
FR3 Handling Pack and CHE LCA's and relocation brackets.
462 RWHP 443TQ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robs1stStang View Post
I figure suspension work will come into play next summer. I have to take it easy on the wife, she let me pull the pin on the blower set up. I have full intention of getting the rest of the car up to snuff so to speak. If not for any other reason than safety. Driveshaft, tires, brakes. etc. I'll see how long the stock rear end will hold up. I'm told the tranny is ok but the rear ends don't like the extra torque. I don't plan to be crazy with the car right off the bat anyway. Over 500HP is alot of power.

Sounds like a pretty solid plan.


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Well what ever you decide, get some delete plates and make sure you get the right tune for that mod.

2006 Mustang GT, MGW Shifter, Flow Master cat backs, Custom Paint, Vortech Supercharger Standard kit 420 HP, J&M lower control arms' Steeda panhard bar, aeroforce gauge, True forge wheels, SR performance springs
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post #36 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-04-2013 Thread Starter
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It's all coming together very nicely. I'm looking into gauges to keep an eye on things. Anyone recommend any. I'm probably going to go with a boost, fuel pressure. anything else I should consider?

2005 HP White GT - Auto - Red Leather Interior -Shaker 1000 - FR-500-S Axle Backs -Roush TVS 2300 Supercharged - GT500 Fuel pumps, GT500 TB, Aeroforce Dual Gauges, Performance Automatic 5r55S with hardened input shaft, PA 3000 Stall Converter , Dynotech one piece aluminum D/S, Roush Brakes,
FR3 Handling Pack and CHE LCA's and relocation brackets.
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Gauges are nice, but if you have a solid tune and are not going to flog the hell out of your Stang, they are not critical. I got my gauges about 9 months after my SC install,,,,and I look at them...but not like I live by them.
You'll definitly get different viewpoints on this topic.

I would put those dollars first into brakes, and then tires for your SC set up. Even the suspension mods can wait.

Did not see what you have for brakes.

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post #38 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013 Thread Starter
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I only have stock brakes. I'm looking into this, it can get pricey fast. Can I get away with better pads and rotors or is a whole upgrade kit necessary.

2005 HP White GT - Auto - Red Leather Interior -Shaker 1000 - FR-500-S Axle Backs -Roush TVS 2300 Supercharged - GT500 Fuel pumps, GT500 TB, Aeroforce Dual Gauges, Performance Automatic 5r55S with hardened input shaft, PA 3000 Stall Converter , Dynotech one piece aluminum D/S, Roush Brakes,
FR3 Handling Pack and CHE LCA's and relocation brackets.
462 RWHP 443TQ
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For street use stock brakes are fine. If you go significantly larger sticker tires you might find a need for improved pads. Big brakes are really only useful on road race track where repeated braking can cause smaller brakes to over heat. I do love the looks of huge brakes.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stock06 View Post
Well what ever you decide, get some delete plates and make sure you get the right tune for that mod.
Pretty sure OP (Rob) is going with the Roush TVS which includes a new manifold, the CMDP's will be long gone.

| 2010 GT coupe | Daily Driver with some Steeda and GT500 take-off stuff for the occasional track day
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post #41 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013 Thread Starter
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Yes i am going with the Roush TVS. I was originally thinking paxton but was swayed by the dark side.

Rob

2005 HP White GT - Auto - Red Leather Interior -Shaker 1000 - FR-500-S Axle Backs -Roush TVS 2300 Supercharged - GT500 Fuel pumps, GT500 TB, Aeroforce Dual Gauges, Performance Automatic 5r55S with hardened input shaft, PA 3000 Stall Converter , Dynotech one piece aluminum D/S, Roush Brakes,
FR3 Handling Pack and CHE LCA's and relocation brackets.
462 RWHP 443TQ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robs1stStang View Post
Yes i am going with the Roush TVS. I was originally thinking paxton but was swayed by the dark side.

Rob
Dude, don't underestimate the power of the Dark Side

As far as the rear diff goes; I raced the entire '09 season on the stock diff. I didn't replace it until 2010. I also ran entirely stock brakes until just a couple of months ago when it was time to replace the discs anyway. I upgraded to the Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads, not because it was critically necessary, but I just have this philosophy that when it's time to replace a part I always upgrade if I can.

I had some of the same worries, though. "What am I gonna break due to added power and torque?"

I have extended the life of my transmission by minimizing the 5-3 downshift that the auto likes to make when you stomp on it at 65mph. When I want to stomp on it, I make sure I'm somewhere below 55mph and then I manually shift down to 3rd...let the car shift...hammer the gas and bump it back into drive. The car can upshift with the pedal on the floor all day long and just eat it up.

On the stock 5r55s trans, the input shaft doesn't like the 5-3 downshift with an extra 200hp behind it at 5000 RPM. As long as you "roll" into the gas pedal with your foot, and don't neglect your maintenance, I can't conceive of any problems that you'll have.

I rolled over 106K miles last month with the original block, rotating assembly, torque converter and trans.

To help avoid wheel hop and axle wind, which are hard on your drive shaft, I would look at upgrading your lower control arms next.
:smilie

Justin
Columbus, OH
'07 GT auto, Stage 3 Saleen Series VI blower @9.5lbs boost. LTs, MAC Boom Tubes, 1pc Driveshaft, Eaton posi.
Brenspeed Installed and Brenspeed Tuned
Best 1/4 mile is 11.42 @ 119. Driven Daily
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I almost forgot, when it comes time to change your lower control arms, that is a pretty simple procedure that you should be able to do yourself if you've got a decent beginners tool kit and a set of jack stands. So once you buy the part there is not a lot of labor involved.

When it comes to gauges....I have Autometer boost/ vac and air/fuel ratio. Not to live by, but to glance at like someone else said in an earlier post.

Justin
Columbus, OH
'07 GT auto, Stage 3 Saleen Series VI blower @9.5lbs boost. LTs, MAC Boom Tubes, 1pc Driveshaft, Eaton posi.
Brenspeed Installed and Brenspeed Tuned
Best 1/4 mile is 11.42 @ 119. Driven Daily
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post #44 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info Justin. I'm getting pretty excited/nervous about the whole thing. That is exactly my way of thinking right now about breakage. Very reassuring. Good info on the transmission. When things wear out upgrade. That's what I will do as well.

2005 HP White GT - Auto - Red Leather Interior -Shaker 1000 - FR-500-S Axle Backs -Roush TVS 2300 Supercharged - GT500 Fuel pumps, GT500 TB, Aeroforce Dual Gauges, Performance Automatic 5r55S with hardened input shaft, PA 3000 Stall Converter , Dynotech one piece aluminum D/S, Roush Brakes,
FR3 Handling Pack and CHE LCA's and relocation brackets.
462 RWHP 443TQ
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That's the nice thing about the Mustang. It was overbuilt to a degree so that it can take the extra power and torque from a supercharger without requiring much else in changes. You see stuff on line all the time about people adding boost to their small little import 4 cylinder cars, and then they blow up or stuff breaks.

I saw a video on youtube recently of a brand new off the lot Hyundai Genesis with the turbochared engine doing doughnuts in the parking lot. 30 seconds into the video, the engine blew up.

In a mustang GT, you add an extra 150 HP * 100-150 Tq over the stock setup, and as long as it is tuned correctly, you have little to worry about.


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