Best bang for your buck suspension mod? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006 Thread Starter
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Best bang for your buck suspension mod?

Looking for opinions on best bang for your buck when it comes to suspension mods. Any insight would be helpful.


'06 GT Satin Silver, 10" graphite painted racing stripes, premium red interior, C&L CAI, Bamachips SCT XCal2, Eibach pro-kit springs, Maximum MotorSports caster camber plates, Nitto 555's, SSE GenII louvers, Tri-bar Pony badges, CDC sequential signals, CDC detail corral.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006
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Subfram connectors... stiffens up the entire car and makes everything, even stock components, work better


2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates

84 Bronco, 302 C6 on 32 10.50's
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006
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I'd also offer lower control arms, upper control arm and a new panhard bar & brace. Less than $500 for all plus you can easily install everything yourself with nothing more than a set of jackstands.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006
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Depends

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cincy05
Looking for opinions on best bang for your buck when it comes to suspension mods. Any insight would be helpful.
Depends on what car you have. 04 and earlier Convertibles are flexible flyers, and I absolutely agree with the idea of adding subframe connectors to these cars. Strut tower braces are good ideas as well.

05 and newer are totally different animals, and if that is your car, the advice is quite different. Steeda makes a "Ultimate Handling Pak" for the new stangs, and I'd recommend you check it out. www.steeda.com Cost is $899 and includes new springs, strut tower brace, adjustable front swaybar and rear swaybar with billet links.

By going with an engineered solution from a single manufacturer, you avoid the "misfit" problems that piecing together parts can create. This is really awkward on newer cars...

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006
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I don't know about you, but I think my 05 is prety flexable for a hard top.

I do think wheel hop is bad and LCA's would be a help, but according to Spohn and BMR Fabrication its the upper control arm (3rd link sometimes as its referred) is actually the most effective replacement. Ofcourse this is more geared toward hooking up on a launch.

Then thehandlign packs are fo just that. the Subframes will help with both.

2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates

84 Bronco, 302 C6 on 32 10.50's
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006
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Id

Yeah, I sort of assumed he had an 05 or later because of where he's posting, but being new, he might be in the wrong forum...

From the folks I'm talking to that own 05's, an important part of the equation that's being overlooked is the wheel/tire combo. Lots of guys looking for better handling are going for the springs and other suspension components, THEN adding low profile tires and larger wheels, and discovering how much rougher the ride gets from that change. A buddy of mine had some Maximum sub frame connectors and their full rear end treatment installed, and was happy enough with them - then went with the big wheels and low profile tires he wanted, and discovered his ride was too harsh for him. Now he's faced with either going back to his old wheels and tires, or removing some of the components he just had installed on the car - NOT the right sequence!

I don't think the subframe connectors are the problem, and I told him so - those urethane bushings are the main difference, imo. Subrame connectors are good for EVERYTHING - launches, handling and street use will all benefit. I'd be sure that whoever welds them in knows what they're doing (and that they don't set your carpets on fire, of course).

It occurs to me that settling on the wheel and tire you're wanting FIRST might be a good idea, just to prevent going over your personal "comfort zone" with further changes.

I agree that another decision fork is whether to build the car for the street, the strip, or the track. Or what combination of all three.

The other factor is of course looks, which is heavily influenced by ride height and wheel/tire size as well.

With the number of club members complaining about having to remove components because they don't work well with prior items, sitting down and going heart-to-heart with what you plan to do long term seems wise to me.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle F
I don't know about you, but I think my 05 is prety flexable for a hard top.

I do think wheel hop is bad and LCA's would be a help, but according to Spohn and BMR Fabrication its the upper control arm (3rd link sometimes as its referred) is actually the most effective replacement. Ofcourse this is more geared toward hooking up on a launch.

Then thehandlign packs are fo just that. the Subframes will help with both.

tripleblack

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-19-2006 Thread Starter
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Yes I am a newbie. Guess I shudda clarified.
I have an '06 GT with factory 18" bullitt's which are staying on the car.
Thanks for all the good info. Keep it coming.

'06 GT Satin Silver, 10" graphite painted racing stripes, premium red interior, C&L CAI, Bamachips SCT XCal2, Eibach pro-kit springs, Maximum MotorSports caster camber plates, Nitto 555's, SSE GenII louvers, Tri-bar Pony badges, CDC sequential signals, CDC detail corral.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006
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Well, I liek my stock wheels...17" Greay bullits here, but I might go with a wider more agresive tire sooner because these all seasons do suck.

I agree here with trippleblack... you need to have a heart to hear with yourself about what will you use the car for?

If its Drag racing... Drag Radials, LCA's, UCA, and Subframes would get you set up nicely and then a set of adjustable shocks woul make for some good 60' times.

If its not goign to the drag strip and you are looking for better street performance then a set of shck/springs/swaybars would be the ticket.

If you are Auto Crossing or road racing the get the Shocks/Springs/Swaybars/LCA's/Panhard Rod/CasterCamber Plates

The thing is that above all else, the reason while I suport the subframes is because they will make any of the above mention items perform better.

So, what are you planning on doing the most?

2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates

84 Bronco, 302 C6 on 32 10.50's
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