GT Lowering Springs--What brands do you have experience with - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007 Thread Starter
 
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GT Lowering Springs--What brands do you have experience with

Well, I seen a friends lowered 06, and i now want to lower mine. I've been looking around, and found a few different prices, and different brands. I even found some on ebay for abou 95 bones. Would these be worth it, or would they be junk. I've also looked at the Eibach Pro Kit, and the Sprort Springs the sports have a lower drop. I also found a brand called Vogtland, are they any good. And last but not least the FRPP springs. So any input or experiences would be helpful, because i think i'm going to order Friday. Oh and how hard are they to put on, and bout how long does it take.:punchballs:

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007
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I have the full Saleen kit (springs, shocks/struts, sway bars, etc), which the springs are essentially the Eibach Pro Kit. I am happy with my drop and final stance.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007
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i have the eibach sport kit...love the drop on the car! its totally slammed! naturally the ride is harsher...but the looks are awesome, handles beautifully aswell.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007
 
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Are there any issues with rubbing when over bumps or turning the wheel full left or right in forward or reverse?

Does anything over and beyond putting the springs/struts in need to be done? I have seen a few posts talking about the change in the pinion angle or something like that.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerino2000 View Post
Are there any issues with rubbing when over bumps or turning the wheel full left or right in forward or reverse?

Does anything over and beyond putting the springs/struts in need to be done? I have seen a few posts talking about the change in the pinion angle or something like that.
No rubbing of the tires. I do have to worry about the chin spoile, but not the wheels or tires.

Yes, there are other things that should be done when lowering a car...i.e. install an adjustable panhard bar, possibly an adjustable lower control arms (LCSa) and upper control arm (UCA). You will likely need camber adjustment bolts or plates and many prefer to upgrade the shocks/struts and sway bars as well.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007
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FRPP springs here. I believe they are the eibach pro springs and are a little cheaper.

2006 MUSTANG GT Vista Blue. FRPP Springs. Cobra R Wheels. C&L Racer. XCAL 2 with Bama tunes. Shaker Hood Scoop. 73 Mustang Rear Spoiler. CDC Front Spoiler. Center Fog Lights Grill. Grey strips. Stainless Works long tube headers with there three inch exhaust. Custom grey leather inserts. Prothane motor mounts. Steeda Tri-AX shifter. 4.10 gears. quarter window louvers. Steeda upper. BMR adjustable panhard and support.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007
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I have the Steeda sports... love'em... dropped my vert about 1.5 -1.75 looks great
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007
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Originally Posted by mrvandermey View Post
No rubbing of the tires. I do have to worry about the chin spoile, but not the wheels or tires.

Yes, there are other things that should be done when lowering a car...i.e. install an adjustable panhard bar, possibly an adjustable lower control arms (LCSa) and upper control arm (UCA). You will likely need camber adjustment bolts or plates and many prefer to upgrade the shocks/struts and sway bars as well.
I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but it does bring to light a question that has been causing great stress in this humble Mustanger's life.......Many posts on this site suggest installing UCA/LCA/camber bolts/plates/adjustable panhard when installing lowering springs. Why is it that when I phone the FRPP techline,( 1-800 number is on the website) they say "No sir-you do not those items with the FRPP Handling Pack (springs/struts/shocks/front,rear sway bars), because you are only lowering the car by approx. 1.5. " Who the do you believe? I know they're trying to sell product, but I'm trying to figure out why they would push it as an "all inclusive" if it is missing a few vital components ? All I want to do is maintain proper driveline geometry and get rid of the 4X4 look on my 'vert!!!! I have no interest in doing the mod if I'm not fully aware of it's impact on my car...don't need any suprises down the road. Thanks, I feel better already.....
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007
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Originally Posted by GT 4 MT View Post
I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but it does bring to light a question that has been causing great stress in this humble Mustanger's life.......Many posts on this site suggest installing UCA/LCA/camber bolts/plates/adjustable panhard when installing lowering springs. Why is it that when I phone the FRPP techline,( 1-800 number is on the website) they say "No sir-you do not those items with the FRPP Handling Pack (springs/struts/shocks/front,rear sway bars), because you are only lowering the car by approx. 1.5. " Who the do you believe? I know they're trying to sell product, but I'm trying to figure out why they would push it as an "all inclusive" if it is missing a few vital components ? All I want to do is maintain proper driveline geometry and get rid of the 4X4 look on my 'vert!!!! I have no interest in doing the mod if I'm not fully aware of it's impact on my car...don't need any suprises down the road. Thanks, I feel better already.....
As for the camber adjustment bolts/plates, it is true, not everyone will need them. More likely than not you will, but not everyone will. In my own Stang, I only needed them for one side of the car.

Most experts will tell you that you should add an adjustable panhard bar because whne you lower the car, you do indeed shift the angle of the drive shaft. Now, I am not an engineer or even an expert, but I have found more profeesionals recommend this change than those who say you do not need it.

I have heard both arguments for and against the need for LCSa/UCS, but again, you are moving the center of gravity of a vehicle and lowering parts with minimal margins. Hence why adjustable pars are a bit better.

No doubt you do not need to upgrade brakes, shocks/struts, and sway bars, but these upgrades do make for a better ride.
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Thanks! Sometimes the frustration boils over....I think the majority of Mustang drivers (doesn't matter which generation) are very particular when it comes to personalizing thier ride and making major mods. It's difficult sometimes,if you're just learning, to figure out who's shooting straight from the hip. Personally, I agree with you Mr. V, that it stands to reason that dropping the ride height would require re-centering the rear axle and adjusting camber and pinion angle to maintain the correct geometry and prevent premature wear on bearings etc.
However, I find it interesting that the articles on the new Shelby GT (or even the GT-H for that matter) mention it is equipped with the FRPP Handling Pack, and nowhere does it mention any of the fine tuning previously discussed as being required. Again-frustration at this lack of information/apparent contradiction Anybody else notice this or get an up close and personal with the Shelby GT/GT-H to see what's what?
I'm halfway inclined to install the FRPP Handling Pack and see how it all shakes out, and add the adjustable stuff as required, or more realistically, as the budget allows. I can't imagine how Ford/Shelby would produce/install these pieces if they were going to be detrimental,,,what about the whole reputation thing? Apologies to mpd525 If this keeps on I may have to start my own thread!!
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I went with H&R springs to lower the car 1". I added to that, for the ride Tokiko d-specs. I also got the adjustable panhard bar. I needed that for sure. I bought camber bolts, I did not need them for alignment but installed anyway.

Adjustment has a lot to do with how big your drop is, I think.
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the UCA/LCA issue from my research is much more important if your making a lot more power... like 400RWHP + for traction issues


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Well said and well done rcm!

I put on Eibach Pros (I think the Sports are too low and too harch.) Loved the look, and better handling. I did not need to extend the camber adjustment with bolts or plates. I will go against Mr.V and say most (2 out of 3?) do/did not need those?

A while later I added the Eibach Anti-Roll Kit and think that was an even greater handling improvement. I highly recomend stronger sway bars for all that may drive their car hard while turning, like on a on or off ramp is where I noticed it the most. The wheels stay under the car and not like stock when it felt like the wheels were on the road and the car was on the side hanging over the ditch...

I then wanted the rear end straight under the car. I have wide tires and the left rear was about an inch closer to the wheel well. I could notice, most others probably could not. I did not notice a handling improvement, was more cosmetic.

I also added LCAs and a adjustable UCA with stronger brackets and a TQ-brace under the tranny. This is more for the strip. But the TQ-brace is really nice under all hard accel!

And finally I added some Tociko D-Specs and OMG what a differance! HIGHLY recomended! What pieces of enginering!!

I would check the total price for Eibach Pro springs and anti-roll kit, an adjustable panhard bar and D-Specs. I think you'll find that for just over what the FRPP handling pack is and hopefully realize how much better of a deal it is all in all with the adjustable dampeners. Remember to add an adjustable panhard bar to the FRPP kit... also the strut tower brace is not really needed on our already quite stiff, for stock, cars.

I got my Eibach parts (about $225 springs and $275 anti-roll kit) from Sacramento-Mustang Parts - Restoration to Race, Mustang Parts they used to be the cheapest but have lately not impressed.

Tokico D-Specs from Ebay. $515.

Adjustable panhard bar (~$120) and some other parts from CHE / Powerhouse. www.powerhouse411.com

KJ, poorer but happier

Thanks to:
Modular Depot
Fox Lake Racing
Tunable Induction
Power House 411
Sun Coast Creations
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Kj, I mentioned that not every car will need the camber adjustment bolts/plates. I even mentioned that my own car only need one side. I agree, it is a hit or miss as to whether they will be needed or not. Now it is possible that my estimate that it is likely you will need them may be off, but I basing my opinion on what I have heard here and what my shop indicated that from what they have seen, more than half needed them. But as mentioned, I am not an expert in this matter, I can only go by what I have witnessed.

So GT4MT, you may indeed be in the majority of cars that do not need them. Form what I have been told, you wont know until you are there.
In addition to everything, do make sure you get a front end alignment after you install (or have installed) any suspension parts, inlcuding lowering kits. I would also think it prudent to get a 4-wheel alignment if you do significant work to the rear as well.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stkjock View Post
the UCA/LCA issue from my research is much more important if your making a lot more power... like 400RWHP + for traction issues
Yes but it's also important to maintain the proper pinion angle on the drivetrain.


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