Wits End - Here I Come (Crank No-Start) - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017 Thread Starter
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Wits End - Here I Come (Crank No-Start)

...as in - Yet another Crank, No Start thread.

2005 SOHC v6 Mustang

Full History (that i know of):
So this was an overhaul job. Previous owner cooked the motor by running after all the coolant leaked out of the cracked thermostat housing which led to warped heads, and eventually cam chain guide shattering, etc, etc.

I pulled the motor and stripped it down. I acquired some suitable donor heads and had them completely re-worked. They weren't warped but the shop dressed the bottom surface to get it good and clean. The bottom end looked great. Literally no wear or ring 'lip' in any of the cylinders. The heads were quite sacrificial wrt the failure so I left well enough alone. New Cloyle's timing chain set, head bolts, TTY bolts, oil pump, water pump, full gasket set, thermostat housing, hoses and tossed the motor back in.

Get it all buttoned back together and it cranks but no spark. Per the previous owner, it ran right up until "It started making an awful banging/clanking sound, so I turned it off".

Here's what I've gone through troubleshooting - wise:

-All fuses: Internal and engine bay blocks.
-OBD: No errors. Just the Q/P1000 or whatever (first run, "system hasn't been through an initial drive cycle.." or something) All the tests I was able to run came back as "PASS".
-PATS: Upon key turned to "on/run" position, the cluster pats light comes on for about a second or two then goes off.
-Fuel: Pressed fuel shut-off switch. Pressure not tested but definitely full pressure in main line that sprays when disconnected and pump primes/runs when key turned to on.
-Compression: Good compression and consistent around the motor.
-Injectors: All measure within a very close resistance range.
-Spark: None
-Ignition: I ran through the test procedures that involve piercing/probing the three small guage coil pack wires and cranking to check for flash or momentary off (depending on if testing to ground or [+]). All four lines have 12v but no flicker or momentary off on the [trigger/fire] signal wires. The crank sensor was sending .485v a/c so I went ahead and replaced it.. still no start.

Other things i've tried based on other forum "try-this" discussions:
- Disconnecting MAF sensor and cranking.
- Flooring accelerator, applying brake, both... and cranking.
- Adding gas (in case level was too low to adequately pressurize line
- Jumping with another car to ensure adequate starting voltage

Things of note:
- The alternator in the car was taken from a donor car along with its 4-pin connector which is different than the stock one. My guess is it came off either a b5000, Mountaineer or Explorer. The previous owner says it's been on there for "a while" so I can only assume it will at least start with it but I haven't tested it.

- I've acquired a full car schematic and have ensured all grounds are present, cleaned and have good contact on both ends.

- I've tested three relays in the engine compartment fuse box that I understand are part of, or could hamper, starting/running operation. All tested good.

- I have a donor PCM on hand but, apparently, those have to be programmed by the dealer when they are moved between vehicles so I haven't gone down that road yet.

- Tried moving the crank position sensor closer to the balance by loosening the bolts and pushing it down closer to the crank. It's right on there and putting out .9v a/c.

There's probably more that I've done but can't think of right now. Can anyone think of anything I'm missing here? A button? A reset switch? Some chicken bones or a sacrifice that has to be made to honor the Ford gods?

Thanks for reading and for any ideas!

Daryl

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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 12-16-2017
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Hey Daryl, how did this work out for you?

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